Shaving moustache against the grain?

[ChasingBadgers]

Hey guys,

It's been a few months now since I started wet shaving (I use a double edge safety razor with a badger brush).
I already managed to improve my technique a bit, and reduce razor burn, ingrown hairs, etc.
In the beginning I switched to a milder blade (the Derby Extras) since they gave me less irritation with my less than perfect technique.
Recently, I switched back to Feathers, and much prefer their sharpness now that I've improved my blade angle and have built up some muscle memory.

One thing I'm still having a bit of problems with though is my moustache area.
The rest of my face is not a problem, and I get a pretty smooth shave.
However, I notice that I practically need to do an against the grain pass on my moustache, otherwise there is far too much stubble left.

The problem is that unlike the other facial areas, the blade doesn't glide smoothly here against the grain at all.
It gets caught on the hairs, and I have to make a few passes too many to really get a smooth shave (often resulting in some small nicks or razor burn afterwards, especially with the sharper blade).

I'm not really sure what I'm doing wrong here, or what I should be doing differently.

My process:
1. Shower if possible (hot towel otherwise)
2. Apply pre-shave oil
3. Lather up
4. With the grain pass
5. Re-lather
6. Across the grain pass
7. Re-lather
8. Against the grain pass
9. Rinse with cold water
10. Apply alum block
11. Rinse with cold water
12. Post-shave balm / Aftershave

If anyone could give me some advice, I would appreciate it

 

[rbscebu]

To solve your problem I seriously suggest that you get into traditional straight razor shaving.

I also had the same problem with DE shaving and thought that it was just a normal part of shaving until I got into and perfected my SR technique. Now ATG on the upper lip (aka Fool's Pass) feels just the same as WTG on my cheeks.

You can try out traditional SR shaving for about USD 40 with a guaranteed shave-ready SR in the USA.

 

[shave/brush]

For your second pass try going across the grain. Works fine for me. I gave up going ATG on the upper lip.

 

[smudge]

You could try a diagonal stroke on your upper lip that would be a combination of xtg and atg. Or, if you're feeling brave try a "Gillette Slide" - this is where you keep the blade horizontal on your upper lip, but move it upwards at 45⁰ towards your nose. This would result in you slicing your whiskers, rather than chopping them. This is the principle of a slant razor and is a technique commonly used by some experienced wet shavers. Slicing, rather than chopping, could well reduce your irritation.

 

[BigJ]

Fine suggestions above!

I get best results on my upper lip using three passes. First WTG, then two XTG passes in different directions (one diagonal to the left, the other diagonal to the right).

 

[dmshaver]

Try the above suggestions. The good news is you’ll get better the more you do it. Enjoy your journey!

 

[Adis653]

I usually go xtg in both directions diagonally upward away from center. If I go the other direction (inward towards nose) I get really bad ingrowns

 

[rockthrower]

I definitely need to do an ATG pass to get that area smooth. For the ATG pass I need to use an extremely shallow angle (riding the cap) or else the blade catches. With an extremely shallow angle I have no problem going directly ATG for perfectly smooth results. Works with all my razors.

 

[Tpach]

Cold water shave!

 

[ChasingBadgers]

Thanks for the suggestions everyone.

I experimented with 2 XTG passes in opposite directions, which was already a big improvement.

Usually I would do my XTG pass like this:
Left side of face from left to right, right ride of face from right to left.
If I do 2 XTG passes fully left/right and vice versa it works much better.

I also tried the "diagonally upwards" technique somewhere inbetween for my upper lip, and that worked much, much better than the ATG I was doing before.

Thanks again, I'm already seeing some big improvements, now I just need more practice

 

[samhain666]

I wanted to suggest 2 XTG passes since 1 XTG works great for me but I see you've done that

I also suggest using something that isn't Feather. Go for blades that are a tad less sharp but a looooooot smoother. It helps reducing iritation

And don't bother with pre shave. It doesn't do anything for your shave. Focus on best lather you can make from your soap/cream of choice

 

[musicman1951]

I have the same problem. The only viable solution I've found is blade buffing XTG on the last pass.

 

[Vermonster]

Im glad you asked chasing badgers. Im also new to wet shaving and have been having the same issues. I have been using Gem 1912 and micromatic open comb. Maybe I will have too try a straight razor. Yep, another rabbit hole!

 

[Canada]

Try using a travel tech (if you own one) loaded with a shape blade for the third pass ATG on the upper lip. I had the same problem when I started shaving ATG on the upper lip. If you don't shave the area first it may become dry. Use a wet hand to add moisture to the drying soap to insure it stays slick. I like to take care of the small hairs inside and around the nostrils when doing the second XTG pass so as to concentrate on the just the upward strokes of the third pass. If you tend to use a buffing stroke, then wipe your lip with a wet hand and soap that you get from your neck area after each stroke. Leave the upper lip to the very last and concentrate. These hairs don't like to be cut to bbs and will cause ingrown hair and pimples, but if you keep doing a ATG on this area the hair and skin seem to adapt and your skill and shaves improves.

 

[Olajidebt]

To solve your problem I seriously suggest that you get into traditional straight razor shaving.

I also had the same problem with DE shaving and thought that it was just a normal part of shaving until I got into and perfected my SR technique. Now ATG on the upper lip (aka Fool's Pass) feels just the same as WTG on my cheeks.

You can try out traditional SR shaving for about USD 40 with a guaranteed shave-ready SR in the USA.

Big +1 for what rbscebu said. Nothing has made the Fool's pass so easy as a shavette or a SR. Super easy, no longer a Fool's pass. If you insist on continuing to use DE razor I'd listen to fellow member "rockthrower", ride the cap and do very short strokes!

 

[Razorcan]

and I have to make a few passes too many to really get a smooth shave

Ι have been DE shaving daily since 1980.
I still have to do at least 6-8 passes to get a super close BBS in my mustache area.

I start with one with the grain,than across to the left,than across to the right and than a few against the grain to get super smooth especially under the nostrils... it's the nature of the beast...

Unless I use an open comb razor ... when I do four-five passes get me there.

Also stretching the skin by... puffing really helps.

 

[Atlantic59]

That is a difficult area. I would do at least two XTG passes to get the whiskers really short before attempting ATG. It helps to have a razor that holds the blade very rigidly, for example, Fatip OC. Use a very sharp blade and ride the cap after applying a thin, slick lather. Use very short strokes.

 

[never-stop-learning]

+1 for the XTG passes from both directions.

Also try to stick your tongue between your upper teeth and your mustache area, one side at a time. This helps to tighten the skin and push your mustache area forward and makes your XTG passes more effective.

Also makes it easier to use an angled pass between XTG & ATG from the corner of your mouth toward the middle of your nose.

Or, you can do what I did and stop worrying about BBS.

 

[haggis]

I feel you. I've had the most luck riding the cap on slick, wet lather with very very short strokes. Paradoxically I weep and nick myself the least in this area because it is the hardest for me to do and therefore I rarely hurry or lose focus in this one area. I should probably not have said that out loud

 

[MikeyS]

I always shave my right side with my right hand, left with left, but for the upper lip I switch. I’ll shave against the grain on my left mustache with my right hand. I found I have much more control and can really see and find the angle better when I come across my face that way. Definitely helped me get a closer irritation free pass on that area.