Shavette And Barber Razor Enthusiast (SABRE) group

[Kilroy6644]

Cool, a couple brands I didn't know about. Neat to see Dubl Duck made them too. Since they are smaller than the Weck, they are probably meant to be hair shapers, or possibly travel razors.

Yep, the Dubl Duck says "Hair Shaper" right on the spine. I really just wanted that one, because Dubl Duck was a name I'd seen before, and I wanted something comparable to the Weck, but with different scales . The Burmax was a bonus, because it was a lot of two. I haven't shaved with it yet (or completed a shave with the Duck, for that matter), because I'm still waiting for my face to heal.

 

[mjclark]

Wow- I'm loving this thread!
Thanks for all the effort of putting it together

My Durham Duplex arrived today and it's the full kit:



It's got instructions, a nice horsehide strop, a stropping attachment as well as the comb and, biggest surprise of all, an extra kamisori handle!! I didn't realise these existed until now:



The instructions specifically state that by substituting the stroping attachment for the combs, it can be used as a normal straight razor but with disposable blades:



This kinda turns it into a sort of Edwardian CJB :



One of the blades is unopened and looks to be in great shape, and inside the wrapper there's a nice invitation for a friend:



I saw these described as "transition razors" and that really makes sense- it's easy to imagine how the Durham Duplex appeared in response to Gillette's safety razor.

Does the manufacturer's suggestion to use the stropping attachment with the blade for shaving make this the earliest (1907) guardless disposable straight, predating Dovo, Feather and Kai by many decades?

Anyway, I'm off for a bit of stropping and a shave with my "Edwardian Kamisori", so I'll report back to SABRE presently

 

[mjclark]

Ok...I'm back after shaving with the Durham Duplex stropping attachment on the kamisori handle and I must say it exceeded all expectations!

Stropping the NOS blade with the supplied strop (which I'd dressed with ASB) turned the blade from a dull draggy thing to a very sharp, very smooth edge and it did it very quickly (about 50 laps),
The handle is really ergonomic, comfortable and with great grip, and the blade is just the right size- bigger and more effective than DE blades but still manouvreable.
Also the slightly rounded corners of the blade make for much better flow and comfort than the square, sharp and potentially painful corners of those snapped off DE blades in the other shavettes.

I also had a quick go with the comb attachment and the folding handle.
As has been pointed out, having to flip the scales when changing sides is a pain but the head geometry is superb!
The curvature of the comb plate is perfect for the blade angle, making for a very smooth, sure and safe shave with a big, very sharp blade.
Tonight I didn't have much stubble (thanks to a Gillette Silver Blue yesterday) and I'd like to try the comb attachment out with a bit more beard growth, cos I bet it shines then.

Anyway, Durham Duplex 10/10.
Lots of fun and a great shave

 

[TheVez2]

MJ, first of all, that set is amazing! I've never seen the "kamisori" handle, but I suspect, that was intended to be used while stripping and the scales to be used for shaving. Does your paperwork say one way or the other?

Also, thank you for solving a mystery for me. In my pamphlet it says it can be used without the guard, as an open razor. But I could never figure out how. Now I see they meant to use the stripping attachment to shave with. That is not described as well on mine. By being able to use it open or with the guard, that is where Duplex came from. See below:

 

[Member357]

Looks a lot like this one, but at 97 something dollars, I'll have to pass!

http://www.amazon.co.jp/Hair-Art-Ra...F8&qid=1377039596&sr=8-2&keywords=hair+shaper

(Just noticed, that one is shipped from Cosmetic solutions in the US anyway!)

PapaFish posted this pic in another Weck thread. It is a modern Weck Hair Shaper. As you can see it is made in Japan. Maybe there's hope?

 

[weizemanner]

My go-to blade for use on clients is the Feather RG with Super blades. Excellent razor and as close to a traditional straight as I could ask for.

 

[SystemaCid]

I don't know if any of you guys have heard of the Donjae Shavette Straights, but they are pretty sweet. I think they are stainless and the scales are pretty cool too. They have them on ebay. Bigger and heavier than the Parker and with more blade exposure.

 

[Member357]

I don't know if any of you guys have heard of the Donjae Shavette Straights, but they are pretty sweet. I think they are stainless and the scales are pretty cool too. They have them on ebay. Bigger and heavier than the Parker and with more blade exposure.

They're nice looking pieces, no doubt! A bit out of my price range though!

 

[mjclark]

MJ, first of all, that set is amazing! I've never seen the "kamisori" handle, but I suspect, that was intended to be used while stripping and the scales to be used for shaving. Does your paperwork say one way or the other?

Also, thank you for solving a mystery for me. In my pamphlet it says it can be used without the guard, as an open razor. But I could never figure out how. Now I see they meant to use the stripping attachment to shave with. That is not described as well on mine. By being able to use it open or with the guard, that is where Duplex came from. See below:

Wow- that's really interesting about the "Duplex" name- the company's still going and I wonder how many of the employees know how their company's name originated.

As far as the handles go, the instructions don't mention the different handle designs or which one to use for which purpose.
My stropping attachment appears almost unused (until now!) and it was too stiff to get on the folding handle until I loosened the attachment brackets, but now it's all good to go:



There's also the possibility of using the kamisori handle with the comb guard for another shaving variation.
The fun never stops...

 

[TheVez2]

I used my Durham Domino with the stropping attachment, as an open razor today. I was using an old blade, I have used before, so the edge wasn't fresh. The shave wasn't great, but I can see that this would be a good way to use this razor. When I get some new blades (or decide to break into my vintage blades) I'll try it again.

I had read the directions I posted above several times, trying to figure out what they meant by using it as an open razor, it doesn't specifically say that the stropping attachment makes it an open razor. Even looking at the drawing it is very hard to tell that the stropping attachment is in place in that drawing. But when MJ posted a pic of his with the stropping attachment on, I had another look at my drawing and realized that is how it was presented.

 

[Eighties]

I used my Durham Domino with the stropping attachment, as an open razor today. I was using an old blade, I have used before, so the edge wasn't fresh. The shave wasn't great, but I can see that this would be a good way to use this razor. When I get some new blades (or decide to break into my vintage blades) I'll try it again.

I had read the directions I posted above several times, trying to figure out what they meant by using it as an open razor, it doesn't specifically say that the stropping attachment makes it an open razor. Even looking at the drawing it is very hard to tell that the stropping attachment is in place in that drawing. But when MJ posted a pic of his with the stropping attachment on, I had another look at my drawing and realized that is how it was presented.

I've shaved with mine using the stropping attachment several times with great results. Much closer to the feel of a traditional straight razor albeit a bit more bulky. I've also used the other side of the comb attachment to trim my facial hair before flipping it around and doing the shave it's self. I prefer the comb attachment for shaving as it feels more balanced and I can go quick with out cutting myself. In fact I haven't cut myself with it yet. Also I've started using a bit of a back and fourth motion on the tricky part of my neck, a technique that I wouldn't dare try with any other razor I've ever used. I did it almost instinctivly the first time I ever tried the Duplex and it has worked great.

Lastly, I've had a bit of success in maintaining the Personna blades as shave ready by using an old barber hone that I keep in the bathroom. Right before I strop, I give it about 20 circles on each side and it seems to maintian the edge just fine extending the blade life considerably. I"ve tried to get carpet blades to work by sharpening with the stroping attachment and while I've had success, it is a lot more work than it's worth in my humble opinion.

I bought a whole box of Durham Duplexes on flea bay for almost nothing and have been experimenting with them, I agree with mjclark, you can have a lot of fun with these.

I'm also curious to see if anyone tries the Ever Ready blades. I thought about trying some but realized that with the exchange rate and shipping the cost woudl be close to $1.83 per blade as opposed to about 40¢ a piece when buying the personnas in bulk.

 

[Shave_Rat]

So, my shavette exposure was sort of accidental. When I started the path with DE's, I put the Bluebeard's Revenge shavette (pretty sure it's just a re-branded Parker SR) on my amazon wish list, thinking to use it to break into straights. I also had the Bluebeard's Revenge DE on the list (I collect things with skulls on them... and skulls as well), and I wanted the DE more at the time. Many months goes by, I forgot I had them on the wish list, and I won a starter straight PIF from Wid on here. I got into the straight razor, started picking up a few others off the BST, and that was that. Come Christmas gift opening time, my truly wonderful and awesome other half got me the Bluebeard's Revenge shavette. I was super happy to have it in the collection, but no desire to shave with it... and into the display rack it went. lol

I joined the 2013 Purchase Sabbatical, started to feel the desire to try something new/different a couple months in, and had been reading others experiences with a shavette, so I grabbed mine, loaded the half of a Shark blade into it, and had the worst shaving experience ever since my switching over from carts. lol Multiple cuts/slices/nicks... the areas not bleeding were razor burned... just miserable. Back onto the display rack it went.

Fast forward again many months... I can't recall why, but I got the urge to give it another chance, loaded it with half a personna lab, went really carefully on the angle keeping it shallow, and keeping the strokes light and short. I ended up with a great shave, the results easily comparable to my usual straight razors! Couple more practice shaves, and I got to the point where I could actually shave every 12 hours or so with the shavette and have no irritation or issues doing it. I actually did a 6 day in a row test, shaving twice a day with it, just to see if I could.

I also have like 4 of those personna pathology blades, unused, with a Durham Duplex set on my list to pick up off of ebay at some point (I have the Durham DE handle/head already... talk about a straight razor blade on a stick for a shave experience.. wow!).

Thanks to this thread, I'm really looking at a kamisori styled Feather/Kai/CJB as they pop up on the BST now as well. I would say I'm in for SABRE!

 

[mjclark]

I had read the directions I posted above several times, trying to figure out what they meant by using it as an open razor, it doesn't specifically say that the stropping attachment makes it an open razor. Even looking at the drawing it is very hard to tell that the stropping attachment is in place in that drawing.

Yeah- we must have different versions of the instructions, US vs UK or maybe different sets. Mine doesn't have any pictures of the stropping attachment, but the text says that is what to use for the "ordinary" configuration.

Also I've started using a bit of a back and fourth motion on the tricky part of my neck, a technique that I wouldn't dare try with any other razor I've ever used. I did it almost instinctivly the first time I ever tried the Duplex and it has worked great...
...I'm also curious to see if anyone tries the Ever Ready blades. I thought about trying some but realized that with the exchange rate and shipping the cost woudl be close to $1.83 per blade as opposed to about 40¢ a piece when buying the personnas in bulk.

I like the idea of that super blade buffing with the comb attachment and will definitely give that a go.

I've been looking at UK sources for the blades and have some of those Ever Readys arriving tomorrow.
Does anyone know a UK outlet for the Personna pathology blades?
Also on eBay the Duplex Dog Groomer blades for a similar price, although they appear to have square corners.
Durham Duplex still make industrial converter blades of the same size and shape with the square corners in steel but also tungsten carbide and ceramic (!). Now that would be interesting
I've also found a blade manufacturer who have outlets in Bristol UK and Texas USA who make the correct spec double edge blades with rounded corners in carbon steel and stainless.
They offer the carbon steels in 0.38m and 0.42mm thicknesses- does anybody know the thickness of the original Durham Duplex blades? I'm guessing the 0.3 would be thick enough.
Anyway, I've emailed them for prices.

And I had a nice relaxed shave with the Duplex in its ordinary configuration tonight:



The blade's definitely getting a bit tired, in spite of lots of stropping, but it was still an easy and comfortable experience.
I'm looking forward to finding out what the DD can do with a fresh modern blade.

 

[Member357]

This thread will be the death of me....
Inspired by it as I was earlier today, I bought a universal shavette and picked up a Weck Sextoblade on eBay. I have no blades for the Weck but maybe some of the locally available ones will fit!

I then dug out my Parker (SRB?) I bought for travel, and got a wonderfully smooth and clean shave. I'd forgotten how much fun they are to use.

I'm a bit worried I'm ruining my chances of getting on well with the "regular" straights which have been professionally sharpened and are heading back to me in the near future.

Thanks gents!

 

[Shave_Rat]

I'm a bit worried I'm ruining my chances of getting on well with the "regular" straights which have been professionally sharpened and are heading back to me in the near future.

I think the opposite is more likely, getting too adjusted to the standard straights would have the tendency to cause issues when you swap to the shavette.

 

[Eighties]

I think the opposite is more likely, getting too adjusted to the standard straights would have the tendency to cause issues when you swap to the shavette.

That is my experience as well. I personally find regular straights to be more forgiving than the SABREs. Of course there are the exceptions, I have two wedges, a Twin Duck and a Red Imp that I would put up against a Feather any day (they sliced me so good I didn't feel it or even start bleeding until I applied my after shave).

The thing with machine sharpened blades is somethimes they have a burred edge than can cause nicks or weepers with even the lightest touch. The corking technique is an option for some makes of blades. I used to always have that issue with the Wilkenson Sword DEs. I eventually started taking the paper they were wrapped in and gently running it along the edge before the first shave to remove any microscopic burrs that might be there and found the I had less problem with the weepers. The downside was it seemed to knock a shave or two off the life of the blade. Small price to pay for keeping my skin though.

 

[TheVez2]

This thread will be the death of me....

picked up a Weck Sextoblade on eBay. I have no blades for the Weck but maybe some of the locally available ones will fit!

Check beauty supply stores, and look for hair shaper blades. If you strike out, let me know. I'll send you some. I just hit shave 14 on my Weck Hair Shaper, so a couple packs should last you quite some time.

I'm a bit worried I'm ruining my chances of getting on well with the "regular" straights which have been professionally sharpened and are heading back to me in the near future.

If you have a good technique with shavettes, transitioning to a real straight is easy. As mentioned above, they are much more forgiving. My issue, is that I enjoy using the shavettes so much, I have no desire to go back to using my straights!

 

[mjclark]

This thread will be the death of me....
Inspired by it as I was earlier today, I bought a universal shavette and picked up a Weck Sextoblade on eBay. I have no blades for the Weck but maybe some of the locally available ones will fit!

I then dug out my Parker (SRB?) I bought for travel, and got a wonderfully smooth and clean shave. I'd forgotten how much fun they are to use.

Yeah! Go for it- should this be called ShAD or BRAD or SABRAD? Whatever it is, I've got it too

Anyway, the Ever Ready blades for the DD turned up today:



They're exactly the right size, slightly thinner (which is a good thing) and extremely sharp.
For me they brought out the true excellence of the Durham Duplex Comb:

View attachment 361660

Following Eighties' suggestion (thanks!), I tried some extended blade buffing and it worked excellently.
The head geometry is perfect- the curveon the top of the comb stretches the skin automatically prior to cutting, and also maintains the correct blade angle, making for a super effective, very comfortable and safe shave with a long blade which has a lot of exposure. An extremely effective arrangement
Also it reveals a feature of the Duplex which is unique to it- unlike safety razors, straights, Rolls razor and shavettes, with the DD I can shave in both directions without having to change grip which allows for long sweeping back and forth strokes like a magnified blade buffing.
Perhaps the DD demands a new type of technique because of this feature. It's certainly worth experimenting with.

This has fuelled my enthusiasm to find a good source of cheap compatible blades.
Those Ever Readys work out at about £1.00 a piece- I'm not sure if they're carbon steel (they certainly shave like it!) but I've stropped both edges, so we'll see how many shaves I can get from each one.

Anyway, that 100 year old Durham Duplex with the comb attachment has given me one of the best shaves I've ever had tonight.
Magic!

 

[Member357]

Check beauty supply stores, and look for hair shaper blades. If you strike out, let me know. I'll send you some. I just hit shave 14 on my Weck Hair Shaper, so a couple packs should last you quite some time.


If you have a good technique with shavettes, transitioning to a real straight is easy. As mentioned above, they are much more forgiving. My issue, is that I enjoy using the shavettes so much, I have no desire to go back to using my straights!

I've never seen beauty supply stores around here (I live in Japan) but Amazon Japan might have some... I'm pretty confident that Kai or Feather will make some.

And regarding technique, maybe I was lucky to get such a good shave from the Parker, having not used one for a long time, but I often use the Kai Captain standard or Excelia and get great shaves from them, so maybe I'll be ok.

 

[Eighties]

2
Following Eighties' suggestion (thanks!), I tried some extended blade buffing and it worked excellently.
The head geometry is perfect- the curveon the top of the comb stretches the skin automatically prior to cutting, and also maintains the correct blade angle, making for a super effective, very comfortable and safe shave with a long blade which has a lot of exposure. An extremely effective arrangement
Also it reveals a feature of the Duplex which is unique to it- unlike safety razors, straights, Rolls razor and shavettes, with the DD I can shave in both directions without having to change grip which allows for long sweeping back and forth strokes like a magnified blade buffing.
Perhaps the DD demands a new type of technique because of this feature. It's certainly worth experimenting with.

This has fuelled my enthusiasm to find a good source of cheap compatible blades.
Those Ever Readys work out at about £1.00 a piece- I'm not sure if they're carbon steel (they certainly shave like it!) but I've stropped both edges, so we'll see how many shaves I can get from each one.

Anyway, that 100 year old Durham Duplex with the comb attachment has given me one of the best shaves I've ever had tonight.
Magic!

It makes me feel really good to hear that technique worked for you too. Maybe we should give this unique buffing it's own name. There is already a "Gillette slide" so how about the "Duplex shuffle"?

Seriously though, whoever designed these 100 + years ago really knew what they were doing. I honestly think that what killed them was Gillette getting the military contract for the WWI field kits.

And I'm glad you at least have some source for a usable blade with the Ever Readys. I tried to do some research on the manufacturer and couldn't dig up much, I suspect they might be custom made by Stanley in Sheffield but am not quite sure.

Needless to say, what was once this odd contraption mixed in with the razors I'd see at flea markets has really become a new favorite. I just hope these don't do on e-bay what the Dubl Ducks did.