Shave-Ready Testing, Solving the Mystery?

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

This is a video made by The Superior Shave to illustrate testing a SR to see if it is shave-ready.

I'm not being critical of the video. I am being an ignorant newbie.

What am I supposed to see here. I get the technique. I see one hair on the stone after the test. Maybe other hairs are being cut but I don't see them or hear them being cut

I have some hearing loss so that could be a problem on the cutting sound if there is one. My vision with glasses which I always wear is quite good.

I have read several places that the only true test is the shave, but it would be helpful to be able to understand and use this test.

If I named my razors with girlish names this is what I'd want!

Thank for any pointers or advice.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[ScottChapin]

I’ve never heard it cut. I have to scrutinize the blade to see the hairs, but they are there.


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[Boz]

Looks similar to the hanging hair test. I have used a new Feather DE blade against my hair and it failed the test. So for me the shave test is the only valid test.

 

[bluesman 7]

All of the tests, including the shave test, are quite subjective. With experience, one can correlate their non shaving tests combined with their honing sequences that they also have experience with and know what to expect in their shave test if they choose to do so. Without experience the subjectivity of all of this makes the results meaningless. IMO

 

[Dzaw]

With headphones I can hear that razor treetopping hair. At top resolution, I can watch carefully, and see the hair it is cutting land on the blade. His armhair is about as thick as my leg hair, and he appears to be at roughtly 1/8" ish (or less) above the skin - the spine is almost touching his skin.

The ZY razor you shaved with yesterday would pass that test with ease, quite a lot quieter than that video.

From what I've been reading that Mr @SlashMcCoy has written about treetopping tests, this is kind of a minimum bar to set for shave ready level of sharp. Double that distance, with an absolutely silent treetopping is a super duper sci-fi sharp blade. Most "well honed" shave ready edges are somewhere in between.

Bear in mind, too, that many shavers who are not Methodists prefer what they call a smoother edge. This would be an edge that is plenty sharp to cut hair, but maybe not so aggressively polished sharp. Many such folk report that an edge polished to "perfection" on synthetic abrasives is a harsh shave that leaves their skin irritated. So-called "Finishing" hones are called such because they are the finest abrasive used on an edge, and include various 8k, 12k, 16k, jnats, coticules, as well as hard black or translucent Arkansas stones. All of which will leave a finish that is less finely polished than a typical 0.5 micron synthetic abrasive.

This is one of those things that personal taste and subjective tradeoffs makes a big appearance in. For me the idea of a mechanically perfect edge is quite appealing, and I am happy to learn to shave with one. For someone else, who learned to shave with a natural stone's edge, it may be harsh and irritating. Could either of us learn to adapt to the other's preferred razor? Maybe. Should we? I would say no - it's a good thing that we are able to form differing preferences, even if it makes learning a little harder.

 

[Seveneighth]

With headphones I can hear that razor treetopping hair. At top resolution, I can watch carefully, and see the hair it is cutting land on the blade. His armhair is about as thick as my leg hair, and he appears to be at roughtly 1/8" ish (or less) above the skin - the spine is almost touching his skin.

The ZY razor you shaved with yesterday would pass that test with ease, quite a lot quieter than that video.

From what I've been reading that Mr @SlashMcCoy has written about treetopping tests, this is kind of a minimum bar to set for shave ready level of sharp. Double that distance, with an absolutely silent treetopping is a super duper sci-fi sharp blade. Most "well honed" shave ready edges are somewhere in between.

Bear in mind, too, that many shavers who are not Methodists prefer what they call a smoother edge. This would be an edge that is plenty sharp to cut hair, but maybe not so aggressively polished sharp. Many such folk report that an edge polished to "perfection" on synthetic abrasives is a harsh shave that leaves their skin irritated. So-called "Finishing" hones are called such because they are the finest abrasive used on an edge, and include various 8k, 12k, 16k, jnats, coticules, as well as hard black or translucent Arkansas stones. All of which will leave a finish that is less finely polished than a typical 0.5 micron synthetic abrasive.

This is one of those things that personal taste and subjective tradeoffs makes a big appearance in. For me the idea of a mechanically perfect edge is quite appealing, and I am happy to learn to shave with one. For someone else, who learned to shave with a natural stone's edge, it may be harsh and irritating. Could either of us learn to adapt to the other's preferred razor? Maybe. Should we? I would say no - it's a good thing that we are able to form differing preferences, even if it makes learning a little harder.

Fully agree. For me it also differs by steel. I like the method on some of my razors. For others - it brings the edge up way too harsh.

 

[bluesman 7]

I met a guy at a meet that claimed that he could not use arm hair shaving for tests because his arm hair was too fine. I'm not talking about tree topping, but actual shaving with a blade at the 1k level. I didn't believe him and asked if I could try to shave his arm with said blade. I was able to shave his arm a bit and he said "Yeah, but look how hard you are working at it". He was correct, his arm hair was very difficult to shave with a razor at the 1k level. Lesson; arm hair is not uniform from person to person.

 

[Twelvefret]

I'm beginning to recognize when my blades are ready to shave by rubbing my thumb over the blade. A sharp blade has a feel that it able to dive into the skin. It does not just lay there.

I am questioning my own super sharpness seeking out of a honed razor. There is a way to use a SR that you wouldn't consider using a shavette. If you look at people using a shavette it is different from when a SR is used. My Feather behaves different from any SR, but I like them both and for different reasons.

This morning I was using the French 4/8 and using some pressure. I rested my fingers on my face and just moved the blade with the fingers, apply whatever pressure I needed while maintaining the correct angle. I found the razor performed better than when I tried to use it like a shavette. I figure the old timers didn't have near what we have to maintain an edge. They had to have learned to dig those whiskers out a bit.

 

[steveclarkus]

I met a guy at a meet that claimed that he could not use arm hair shaving for tests because his arm hair was too fine. I'm not talking about tree topping, but actual shaving with a blade at the 1k level. I didn't believe him and asked if I could try to shave his arm with said blade. I was able to shave his arm a bit and he said "Yeah, but look how hard you are working at it". He was correct, his arm hair was very difficult to shave with a razor at the 1k level. Lesson; arm hair is not uniform from person to person.

I have very fine arm hair and that is true. When I treetop, I know I have a scary sharp edge. When I’m honing I use hair from a cheap badger brush to check my progress. It isn’t a true HHT but I’ve done it enough to know where I am.

 

[steveclarkus]

I'm beginning to recognize when my blades are ready to shave by rubbing my thumb over the blade. A sharp blade has a feel that it able to dive into the skin. It does not just lay there.

I am questioning my own super sharpness seeking out of a honed razor. There is a way to use a SR that you wouldn't consider using a shavette. If you look at people using a shavette it is different from when a SR is used. My Feather behaves different from any SR, but I like them both and for different reasons.

This morning I was using the French 4/8 and using some pressure. I rested my fingers on my face and just moved the blade with the fingers, apply whatever pressure I needed while maintaining the correct angle. I found the razor performed better than when I tried to use it like a shavette. I figure the old timers didn't have near what we have to maintain an edge. They had to have learned to dig those whiskers out a bit.

Yep, back in the day I expect coticles and barber hones were about as good as it got. Seems like it would have taken the fun out of shaving doesn’t it?

 

[ScottChapin]

Yep, back in the day I expect coticles and barber hones were about as good as it got. Seems like it would have taken the fun out of shaving doesn’t it?

Or...we might be obsessing. Those might be all you really need. Barring edge reparations, a barbers hone might keep you going.


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[bluesman 7]

It isn’t a true HHT but I’ve done it enough to know where I am.

Knowing what to expect from whatever hair you are using is the key.

 

[bluesman 7]

Or...we might be obsessing. Those might be all you really need. Barring edge reparations, a barbers hone might keep you going.


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I know someone who used a barber hone exclusively for I think 8 or 10 years. The funny thing is that I'm pretty certain he now owns somewhere around a hundred hones.

 

[ScottChapin]

I know someone who used a barber hone exclusively for I think 8 or 10 years. The funny thing is that I'm pretty certain he now owns somewhere around a hundred hones.

Exactly. You really start enjoying the art and have to try everything under the sun. I’m guilty and headed that way.


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[Twelvefret]

Yep, back in the day I expect coticles and barber hones were about as good as it got. Seems like it would have taken the fun out of shaving doesn’t it?

Well, it was a chore and still is for many.

Or...we might be obsessing. Those might be all you really need. Barring edge reparations, a barbers hone might keep you going.


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Yes, I think you are correct.

 

[steveclarkus]

Or...we might be obsessing. Those might be all you really need. Barring edge reparations, a barbers hone might keep you going.


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I think I’ll stick with .1u diamond pasted balsa for now.

 

[ScottChapin]

I think I’ll stick with .1u diamond pasted balsa for now.

Right now I’m going to the Naniwa 12K, but have the materials to set up a 3”x7” acrylic with 1μm film to use handily at the sink like a barber hone.

I don’t want to go to the bench, unless I have too. I might have to though.


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[Twelvefret]

Right now I’m going to the Naniwa 12K, but have the materials to set up a 3”x7” acrylic with 1μm film to use handily at the sink like a barber hone.

I don’t want to go to the bench, unless I have too. I might have to though.


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Where did you find thick enough acrylic, Scott? Home DEPOT stock was too thin.

 

[ScottChapin]

Where did you find thick enough acrylic, Scott? Home DEPOT stock was too thin.

SlashMcCoy posted this awhile back. I was able to get it 7”x3””x1”

Cut-to-Size Plastic & Acrylic Sheets : TAP Plastics


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[steveclarkus]

Right now I’m going to the Naniwa 12K, but have the materials to set up a 3”x7” acrylic with 1μm film to use handily at the sink like a barber hone.

I don’t want to go to the bench, unless I have too. I might have to though.


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Naniwa 12k is great. I use mine from time to time. Once you do the pasted balsa progression and lap the .1u after each shave, you won’t be going back to the bench any more.