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Sharpening knife: D2 steel

I have a pocket knife that is made of D2 Steel. I have searched and found it is high wear resistant. Hoping someone has experience with this. I have finished the bevel with an Imanishi 220 grit stone: made a burr and removed. I have been trying to sharpen it further on a king delux 1200 grit with slurry. I have removed the scratches from the 220, but it is not getting as sharp as I would like. Hoping someone has experience with this to give advice.


I despise D2 steel.

It takes a mediocre edge and holds it forever.

I have the best luck sharpening it with diamonds.

About a DMT fine is optimum in my experience, for general cutting.
I'll second the DMT.
D2 is an abrasive resistant tool steel used in Planer blades and such. Most High wear resistant steels will do well with diamonds. S30 series D2 etc.
Should take a decent edge with the diamond.


Remember to forget me!
I have one D2 folder, and that too is quite challenging to get a decent edge on. I reprofiled the edge on a Worksharp, then stropped with 3 micron paste till I was happy with it. It's still not as sharp as some of my other knives, but it's good enough as a pocket knife. It is a swine to get a half decent edge on it, but once there it will hold it a good while.

I have a Queen Split back Whittler in D2. It came as most Queen knives tend to come, butter knife dull. It took me a logged 21 1/2 hours of work with alox and ceramic stones to put an edge on those 3 blades.

You can get a high polished and hair shaving edge on D2, but you WILL need to spend the time to do it. Fastest results are with diamond flats. But because of the high abrasion resistance of D2, (a hot work die tool steel), you cannot skip a grit. You need to hit every grit down to extra, extra fine ceramic to get that polished edge.

On the upside, I haven't needed to resharpen it for 8 years..............


Alfred Spatchcock
Diamond plates. Even the cheap Harbor Fright ones. Set it and forget it. Once you get the edge, it will last and last.
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