Several Shoe Questions

[Cuttingboard]

Today, I laid out several pairs of shoes to clean and shine and noticed that a pair of my Cole Haan cap toes have a cut along the toe area. It looks as though a knife was used to cut along the bend of the shoe. I'm puzzled because this cant be normal? Can this be repaired? I've had these shoes maybe three years and I always insert shoe trees after wearing and alternate with other pairs of shoes throughout the work week.

This is my third pair of Cole Haan's where something has gone wrong with the leather. First, it was tiny bubbles in the toe crease, the second was the leather soles wearing thin very quickly and now the cut along the crease area. I realize that Cole Haan's are not not one of the most expensive shoes but for $300 a pair, I thought that they were better made than this. Their quality sure has diminished since they were bought by Nike.

I'm thinking that I may begin replacing my shoes with Alden, Allen-Edmond's or Crockett and Jones, etc. Its my understanding that Nordstroms will exchange or give credit toward another pair in case of manufacturers defect? What about Brooks Brothers?

Thanks for letting me vent!!

 

[ace43]

I have one pair of Allen-Edmonds, and they're built like a truck. I've had them five years or more and they seem brand new. They don't get much wear because they're rotated among about twenty other pairs, get the shoe tree treatment, no rain, etc. Most of my shoes are Johnston and Murphy, and, while they are a step down from the shoe brands you mentioned, they've always done well for me. I have at least five pair that are ten years old, and they all feel and look great. I have a few pair that have almost 20 years on them, and they look fine too. I've never had a problem with any of them. They also have a refurbishing program that brings them right back to new. It costs a bit, but when you have a shoe that fits great and that you've become accustomed to, it's nice to be able to get it back to very near new condition.

 

[Cuttingboard]

Anyone order shoes from Ben Silver in Charleston? I receive their magazine and they carry Crockett & Jones and Alden shoes. Curious about their exchange policy.

 

[W_B_K]

I've never bought a pair of Cole Haans as I've heard too many stories like yours. If you have a cobbler local to you they should be able to do something with it. The guy up by me does wonders.

I've been very happy with the Allen Edmonds I have but my favorite shoe is the Hanover LB Sheppard sigs. Have to buy vintage for those though.

 

[The Knize]

Good questions, OP. I have no idea. Please post your experience and the answers you develop to your questions though. I am interested!

I would think that Allen Edmonds rebuild program has to help with things like that toe splitting off. Even though rebuilding the uppers is not a part of the package, I would think that would help get the attention of someone that something was a miss. That is if something like that ever happened at with a pair of AEs!

 

[Cuttingboard]

I contacted Cole Haan to see what needs to be done. I had this happen before and they exchanged them for another of similar value.

 

[Cuttingboard]

Love these Alden Single Malt Scotch Chukka's.

 

[binowatch]

Cole Haan now is not the shoe of years ago. They are no longer made in the USA, they used corrected leathers-a way of giving cheaper leathers a nice look-in some of their shoes. If you are willing to spend that amount of money on shoes get Alden or Allen Edmonds-US made of the best materials, excellent company support, rebuildable. Allen Edmonds can be gotten a Joe Banks for 20%off if you are a corporate member (read anyone). I have had great shoes from both but prefer Alden overall. Ihave gradually replaced most all my shoes with these brands. I have a pair of cigar shell cordovan chukkas on my feet right now. A little darker than the ones shown above. Fantastic!

 

[Cuttingboard]

Cole Haan now is not the shoe of years ago. They are no longer made in the USA, they used corrected leathers-a way of giving cheaper leathers a nice look-in some of their shoes. If you are willing to spend that amount of money on shoes get Alden or Allen Edmonds-US made of the best materials, excellent company support, rebuildable. Allen Edmonds can be gotten a Joe Banks for 20%off if you are a corporate member (read anyone). I have had great shoes from both but prefer Alden overall. Ihave gradually replaced most all my shoes with these brands. I have a pair of cigar shell cordovan chukkas on my feet right now. A little darker than the ones shown above. Fantastic!

I'm beginning to see what your talking about...this is my third pair of Cole Haan shoes to go bad this year. I plan on gradually replacing all of my shoes, I have located the Alden and Allen Edmond's stores in my area. Plus, my father-in-law can buy me AE's at the Marine Corp Exchange here in DC.

Can you tell me what corrective leathers are?

 

[binowatch]

Full grain leather is the best followed by top grain. The first is full thickness leather so the surface is visible and the best hides are used. Top grain is a split leather that is thinner and still must be chosen for the surface appearance. Corrected grain is leather that is actually sanded down to get rid of blemeshes, then artificially resurfaced to look like a better leather and dyed-usually dark-to further cover the faults. It therefore is usually thinner, has been beat up etc. The Chinese are masters of this-hence the large amount of cheap leather goods from there-and their tendency not to last. Many previously good American shoes have gone abroad-at least in their non-premium lines-even Allen Edmonds has a few from Italy (Italy and England still make good shoes, but they vary also). Alden is wonderful but has many different lasts or basic shoe shapes which allow a great fit but that needs to be considered-best to try them on before buying.

 

[The Knize]

I'm beginning to see what your talking about...this is my third pair of Cole Haan shoes to go bad this year. I plan on gradually replacing all of my shoes, I have located the Alden and Allen Edmond's stores in my area. Plus, my father-in-law can buy me AE's at the Marine Corp Exchange here in DC.

Can you tell me what corrective leathers are?

DC area! For a while there, I think it was around a year ago, SYMS had a bunch of Allen Edmonds, I assume discontinued styles for incredible prices. Some of the styles were quite nice. Others were not anything I care for.

Before and after that phase, SYMS seemed to get in a few pairs of Allen Edmonds, at pretty good prices. I would say that right now SYMS has zero pairs of AE shoes in store in Rockville or Falls Church, but who knows. That may not always be the case. Of course, around a year ago, AE stores themselves had an incredible long ongoing sales on discontinued styles! Many of those styles were very close to long best selling AE styles.

I do not know how AE does it even at its regular prices. I have a lot of AE shoes and they seem to last a very long time, and continue to look great. Alden seems to be a price range above around here!

 

[Cuttingboard]

Full grain leather is the best followed by top grain. The first is full thickness leather so the surface is visible and the best hides are used. Top grain is a split leather that is thinner and still must be chosen for the surface appearance. Corrected grain is leather that is actually sanded down to get rid of blemeshes, then artificially resurfaced to look like a better leather and dyed-usually dark-to further cover the faults. It therefore is usually thinner, has been beat up etc. The Chinese are masters of this-hence the large amount of cheap leather goods from there-and their tendency not to last. Many previously good American shoes have gone abroad-at least in their non-premium lines-even Allen Edmonds has a few from Italy (Italy and England still make good shoes, but they vary also). Alden is wonderful but has many different lasts or basic shoe shapes which allow a great fit but that needs to be considered-best to try them on before buying.

Thanks bino...great info. I guess the moral of the story is that you definitely get what you pay for. I remember about 7 years ago I stopped wearing Johnston Murphy because their leather began looking more and more like plastic.

 

[Cuttingboard]

DC area! For a while there, I think it was around a year ago, SYMS had a bunch of Allen Edmonds, I assume discontinued styles for incredible prices. Some of the styles were quite nice. Others were not anything I care for.

Before and after that phase, SYMS seemed to get in a few pairs of Allen Edmonds, at pretty good prices. I would say that right now SYMS has zero pairs of AE shoes in store in Rockville or Falls Church, but who knows. That may not always be the case. Of course, around a year ago, AE stores themselves had an incredible long ongoing sales on discontinued styles! Many of those styles were very close to long best selling AE styles.

I do not know how AE does it even at its regular prices. I have a lot of AE shoes and they seem to last a very long time, and continue to look great. Alden seems to be a price range above around here!

I found several shoe stores that I want to visit in the next several weeks: 1) Alden (921 F St., NW); 2) Allen Edmond's (1027 Connecticut Ave. NW); and 3) Sky Valet Shoes (1800 Wisconsin Ave. NW). I remember that there was a Church's shoe store downtown but I believe they closed.

I really want to visit Sky Valet Shoes in upper Georgetown. The carry Alden, Allen Edmond's, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Loake1880, J.M. Weston, Alfred Sargent and several more brands.

Link to Sky Valet Shoes.

 

[Doc4]

Thanks bino...great info. I guess the moral of the story is that you definitely get what you pay for. I remember about 7 years ago I stopped wearing Johnston Murphy because their leather began looking more and more like plastic.

that plastic-y look is a sign of corrected grain, btw.

I haven't owned a good pair of shoes to say from personal experience, but I hear that a full-grain leather shoe will develop a patina over time (good) while a corrected grain will not. Of course, that doesn't apply to black shoes, but the quality/durability difference still applies.

 

[The Knize]

I found several shoe stores that I want to visit in the next several weeks: 1) Alden (921 F St., NW); 2) Allen Edmond's (1027 Connecticut Ave. NW); and 3) Sky Valet Shoes (1800 Wisconsin Ave. NW). I remember that there was a Church's shoe store downtown but I believe they closed.

I really want to visit Sky Valet Shoes in upper Georgetown. The carry Alden, Allen Edmond's, Crockett & Jones, Edward Green, Loake1880, J.M. Weston, Alfred Sargent and several more brands.

Link to Sky Valet Shoes.

The AE store is right near my office. Give me a call when you are there and we can grab coffee or something!

I have seen that Sky Valet store from the outside many times, but have never gotten around to going in. The prices are not so bad.

Church is long gone at this point. Its quality was down toward the end anyway.

Alden is appealing. I have never really looked into actually getting a pair though!

 

[Cuttingboard]

The AE store is right near my office. Give me a call when you are there and we can grab coffee or something!

Will do Robbie...thanks. It must be very tempting when you have Brooks Brothers, Pink and several other stores close to the office?

I'll have a 3 hour mid-day window before going to a Christmas Party next Wednesday evening and plan on stopping by the Alden Store. Lots of great looking Aldens shoes on Leather Soul's along others that make me drool.

 

[binowatch]

that plastic-y look is a sign of corrected grain, btw.

I haven't owned a good pair of shoes to say from personal experience, but I hear that a full-grain leather shoe will develop a patina over time (good) while a corrected grain will not. Of course, that doesn't apply to black shoes, but the quality/durability difference still applies.

Very true-different leathers will do this differently-shell cordovan, calfskin etc. Black doesn't will do it around the creases but various shades of tan and brown can do this magnificently-you can used different polishes (on calfskin, cordovan should be polished sparingly and rarely) to enhance this for different tones. If cared for a good pair of shoes will last a very long time and can look better with use. Cheap leather just falls apart and looks like, well, cheap leather.

 

[Cuttingboard]

I'm very interested in buying a pair of shell cordovan leather shoes.

Update: After contacting Cole Haan about my shoes, they indicated that they would provide a refund for the shoes that I purchased from their online store and provided a return shipping label.

Unfortunately, since I bought the cap toes at the B&M store, I would have to deal with those folks. I'm doubtful it will turnout well, probably a credit for half what I paid for them. Moral of the story, buy online where there is a copy of your purchases.

FYI - Lots of great information about shoes on styleforum dot com but some of their members are complete jerks!! To be polite!

 

[danrobles]

Ok I must admit that site made me drool a little bit. I have some older cole haan wingtips good to know they were bought out by Nike I was unaware so now to find a new favorite shoe. May have to try some Aldens

Will do Robbie...thanks. It must be very tempting when you have Brooks Brothers, Pink and several other stores close to the office?

I'll have a 3 hour mid-day window before going to a Christmas Party next Wednesday evening and plan on stopping by the Alden Store. Lots of great looking Aldens shoes on Leather Soul's along others that make me drool.

 

[Cuttingboard]

Ok I must admit that site made me drool a little bit. I have some older cole haan wingtips good to know they were bought out by Nike I was unaware so now to find a new favorite shoe. May have to try some Aldens

I have a pair of old cordovan wing tips that are pre-Nike and they are wonderful.