I'm more than happy to admit that I have no idea what that means. Does it mean at the most macro level that lapping films are not enough and that you have to invest in a rock of some sort to do bevel setting?
Well, I guess, in theory and ideally, maybe once... but we often want to "start fresh" and reset it, or some razors get used for practice and it gets reset a lot.But how often do you have to do something like this?
Ok, so basically it is just one of those things that you 'might' have to do? I guess if I get a razor in really bad shape I'll send it to an expert then.Well, I guess, in theory and ideally, maybe once... but we often want to "start fresh" and reset it, or some razors get used for practice and it gets reset a lot.
Basically, if it's done right the first time, not very often at all.
Yeah... you only have to do it on a razor that needs a complete honing, start to finish. Bevel setting is the "start" phase. After that, if you maintain the razor properly, you just have to touch it up, or step down a bit in your honing progression, but not all the way. I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that most guys using the lapping films are probably just "maintaining" the razor.
If I get a razor that is "Shave Ready" from a source I am not familiar with, Ebay, Knife Grinder, etc., I very very lighty run the edge on the rim of a glass to be sure the cutting edge is dull. After that I set the bevel. Once set properly and finished out, general maintenace is only needed to keep the razor shaving sharp. Laps on Crox, a fine stone with water, coticule with water and so on.
lol... don't say that or you will start a riot.Is this why you have to use tape?
Nah. Plus, you asked, ya gots lotsa info, and you're another step closer! It's really not to high-falutin' in the end: get a "V", make it smooth, and shave. All the rest of it is how smooth and how to get there. Lapping films take all the thought out of it and you can get some real zinger edges. Coti edges may not be as shiny or hypersharp, but they are known for wonderful comfort and smoothness and being one-hone solutions. LOTS of other options (you ever set a bevel and finish polished an edge on a chalkboard from a 130 year old schoolhouse? How about petrified wood? Yup, works! Check out the Link here http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/254715-Making-a-hone), but they all can work, and just are diff't paths to get you there. It's fun!Ah, so much to learn!
Once as long as nothing bad happensBut how often do you have to do something like this?
That will work, but if you get into straight razors, you will most likely want to set a bevel. It is really not that difficult with the proper tools.
This is what I do-of course for touch ups its a coticule with OIL or a JNATIf I get a razor that is "Shave Ready" from a source I am not familiar with, Ebay, Knife Grinder, etc., I very very lighty run the edge on the rim of a glass to be sure the cutting edge is dull. After that I set the bevel. Once set properly and finished out, general maintenace is only needed to keep the razor shaving sharp. Laps on Crox, a fine stone with water, coticule with water and so on.
Bevel setting and honing are done in the same way, only the grit of the stone changes. To tape or not to tape is a completely different question-that is really just a preference thing. People tape to protect the spine from hone wear. Ifyou tape for bevel setting then you need to tape for the rest of the honing.So, basically, bevel setting is done by honing the way you've always honed but with a lower grit setting until both sides meet in a V? Do you need to hold the razor at a different angle than what you do when doing normal honing? Is this why you have to use tape?
The bevel is the shape, the higher progressions just polish the previously created bevel. if you have a spot on the razor that does not meet in a perfect V, then you can polish forever and not get that area sharper.as others have said above, the bevel is the foundation for a shaving edge, without a satisfactory bevel, you are wasting time... it's that important...
you can polish a face until you are blue in the face, but if you don't have that V... then that sucks...
people add tape to protect the spine or increase the angle of the bevel for things such as strengthening an edge (if needed, for example if the spine is too worn or the steel crumbles), for adding a second bevel as in the case of unicot on coticules, or getting around the angle of a wedge...
I have a kitchen knife set that I've had for years and a Rachael Ray sharpening system. When the knife gets really dull I'll go all the way back to using this attachment that has degree settings on it and basically shaves off some of the knife to make the edge ready to sharpen