Just don't give up, you will get there.
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Regardless of the method. I think a 600 grit or so stone , a synthetic is Handy for bevel setting. Gets you there much faster. The money spent will save you loads of time. Jmo.
Lets just say your 60 grit bench grinder wheel doesn't have me beat, and leave it at that.Can you beat my 60 grit bench grinder wheel?
Lets just say your 60 grit bench grinder wheel doesn't have me beat, and leave it at that.
Many claim that too course of stone at bevel set causes edge flaking. Have you seen this with any blades?
Many claim that too course of stone at bevel set causes edge flaking. Have you seen this with any blades?
Are you already shaving with a straight razor? Even though the bevel setting process is pretty straightforward, without at least some experience using straights, you are missing some important knowledge. Even more important as you run your progression, and refine the bevel to a nice shaving edge.This thread has answered every question I had about setting a bevel, from what grit to use to when is it set. I now know I have more than enough stones with all the right grit to restore and sharpen the 25 vintage razors I've collected over the past 6 months. Time to stop spending ALL my weekends at flea markets looking for razors and stones and start learning how to restore them. Thanks a lot.
I have never tried a full face shave with a straight razor, only one pass WTG. I don't have a razor that has been honed by a professional but I have one or two that I may send out to be done. Having a properly honed razor for comparison is a must. Some of my razors are "good for learning" and some are "Don't touch that until you know what you're doing". This is something I'm taking my time learning. It's more about restoring than shaving, for me right now, but if I'm going to restore a razor I want to do all of it right.Are you already shaving with a straight razor? Even though the bevel setting process is pretty straightforward, without at least some experience using straights, you are missing some important knowledge. Even more important as you run your progression, and refine the bevel to a nice shaving edge.
One last bit of advice. Pick just one razor and hone it. Preferably one in decent condition, hollow ground, fairly straight edge, no major dings, nor worn to half its original dimensions, but not a particularly valuable one either. IOW, an easy one to hone but reasonably expendable. Make your mistakes on this one, if any are to be made. Shave successfully with it before you start on the rest.
I haven't used wet dry for honing for years, but I would recommend 600 for bevel setting. The sand paper dulls fairly rapidly so using 1000 can be very slow and use a lot of paper. I would follow the 600 with 1000 and 2000 grit.Noob question here. Planning to try the method with some old vintage razors. Ordered lapping film 5u, 3u, 1u and making balsa strops with .5, .25, and .1 diamond paste. What grit sandpaper should I use to set my bevel? Was thinking 1000. Once my bevel is set can I just jump to the 5u lapping film?
I have been using 30u film for bevel setting but have quit. It doesn't seem to stand up to aggressive treatment too well. I now mostly use an inexpensive 1K King and it has worked fine. I do a bevel set on any new to me razor - one exception was a NOS Bengall I recently acquired that had what felt like a 12K factory edge on it right out of the box. I only had to use a pasted balsa progression on that one.Noob question here. Planning to try the method with some old vintage razors. Ordered lapping film 5u, 3u, 1u and making balsa strops with .5, .25, and .1 diamond paste. What grit sandpaper should I use to set my bevel? Was thinking 1000. Once my bevel is set can I just jump to the 5u lapping film?