Setting the Bevel with the Burr Method

Discussion in 'Hones/Honing' started by Slash McCoy, Apr 1, 2017.

    I've never felt the burr, but I set the bevel on my first two razors. The 5/8 is my sharpest razor and provides an effective shave. I struggle with my 4/8, but it shaves and could be just be being new to an SR.

    I simply followed the method as I went through a packet of lapping films. This was followed by a fire hose linen and horse hide strop. I've use CrO2 on a rough out paddle strop and now .1 diamond paste on balsa.

    I prefer historic/vintage razors. There is a pre 1892 coming today and I am interested in the experience. I suppose I will start with the hone and finish with the paste.
  1. Chan Eil Whiskers

    Chan Eil Whiskers Contributor Ambassador

    I'm not where you are, but your post is inspiring.


    At least I'm making progress. Getting it? Well, I'm at least moving towards that goal. It as very satisfying getting the mess put in the GD 1996 all honed out. Took forever, but satisfying to accomplish.

    Thanks for all the helpful tips, Slash. There should be some way your very best posts could be edited and compiled so people could find them, and so you could just point to them and not have to type it all out again.

    I've read several times about how to do what you've just written about, but I think this version might be the most clear.

    I am going to get some acrylic pretty soon for this purpose and others.

    You're right. Several pieces of acrylic + a stash of lapping film costs about what another stone would run me.

    Thanks and happy shaves,

  2. My way is not the only game in town. There is a lot of subjectivity in the subject. Some opinion, some conclusions from limited data sets, and some plain old YMMV. B&B is not the platform for a "Honing by Slash McCoy" book. I did put together under one roof the main elements of "The Method" in the Newbie Honing Compendium | Badger & Blade thread, which is actually tips and tricks from a variety of sources and not my own creation. That's as far as I am willing to take it here. It is rewarding to see new guys coming into the straight razor world and achieving edges that our great grandfathers would find amazing, and however they get those edges is alright by me. I just do the best I can to help.
  3. Slash
    I think you could have a really successful call-in radio program. I would have it tuned in every day.

    with a wink and good cheer,
  4. Ye
    Yeah, kind of like 'Car Talk' , but he needs a sidekick...............................Alx?
  5. This guy puts a great edge on a razor. There is no heavy spine wear. I know. I've shaved more than afew from him. Hes a good pal. The 600 is noisy but leaves a nice mellow scratch pattern that is easily wiped by the 1k chosera.
  6. Chan Eil Whiskers

    Chan Eil Whiskers Contributor Ambassador

    Good and helpful information, Slash. Thanks.

    Everything I know about buying natural stones could fit in a thimble and leave room for a battleship. Good to hear they don't have to cost a fortune, but I've not run across any that don't except eBay mystery stones and Welsh slate.

    Not that I've looked much at all or know anything.

    I'm enjoying this article on buying jnats (by Keith @Gamma), linked.

    Happy shaves,

  7. Yeah... don’t shave like my brother!
  8. Follow-up: Missed my shave yesterday but was able to shave test this razor this morning. Blissful shave! I think I may actually be getting the hang of this honing stuff...
  9. Good deal!
  10. Nice. You think it's good now? It will get even better.
  11. This post saved me a ton of grief! Thanks!
  12. I am not using lapping film which i thought was necessary to feel the burr. I use the shapton progression starting at 1500, and after 11 razors the only one i've felt a burr on was my red imp that i spent WAY too much time on taking out a chip. Not sure if it's the difference in metal quality, or the inordinate amount of time spent on that razor that allowed me to feel it, but it seemed obviously a burr. But it's the only one I've felt after 11 razors.
  13. When you finally get “there”, you will feel a burr. If you don’t feel a burr you ain’t “there” yet. Maybe you aren’t feeling it. Just lightly run a finger tip across the bevel on one side then do the same to the other and you will feel the difference. It doesn’t have dramatic but you will feel it. Finger tips are very sensitive. The burr may and often does not go the entire length of the edge so you have to keep at it until it does. At that point, flip the blade and repeat the process. The more bevels you set, the easier it becomes. When you use the burr method, you have certainty the bevel is set.
  14. I've done over 100 strokes and felt nothing...I ended up getting the bevel set, and passed thumb pad, HHT, and shaving tests, but couldn't ever feel the burr. I believe it said to maintain symmetry don't do more than 100. maybe my shapton 1500 is too weak to burr in this amount of time?
  15. I will likely try this in the near future. Great thread.

    Sent from my DROID Turbo using Tapatalk
  16. Possibly your pressure is too light to raise a burr. But 100 laps isn't very much. Anyway if you are satisfied with your bevel as verified by other tests, then no real need to raise a burr anyway. Check it under a microscope, maybe. If you WANT to use the burr method, maybe read the thread again.
  17. I've read it a few times, but it's dead week in university. Once this next week is over i'll go through the full thread and choose a razor that is not particularly satisfying and rework it from beginning. I imagine there's still plenty to improve on, and eleven razors didn't somehow make me a honemeister :) HAHAHA. Just a bit short on time at the moment. If I go through again and am unable to get a decent burr to form i'll post here and explain what has happened and see if anyone can help.
    Also just to ensure clarity in my last post...I've done several 100 passes, but alternating sides because i thought you said not to go too heavily on one side as it can screw up the symmetry of the bevel. 100 Left side, then switch 100 R side, then back to left side...
  18. Oh yes I see. You are quite correct. 100 strokes should raise a burr if it is nearly there, yes. Try increasing pressure. Use approximately the full weight of your arm, maybe a tiny bit more. Pressure forms burrs, whether you want them, or not. Light pressure removes/prevents them, as a general characteristic.

    Possibly the problem is you simply don't detect the burr. Feel both sides. It is the difference between them that you will notice, not the actual burr itself, unless the burr is extremely pronounced, which equates to wasted steel. So for practice, I suggest you go at it with a razor you really don't care much about. Go until you DO feel the burr, staying on one side up to say 500 strokes before flipping. Then go 1000 strokes on the other side. Then 2000 on the first side again. You GOT to get a very obvious burr sooner or later. Now of course this is leading that particular razor down the path to the scrap bin. Maybe. But sooner or later you will have a burr and then you will go, "Ah HAH!!! Eureka!!!"

    The reason I think maybe you just don't recognize the burr is because by all other tests, you seem to have a bevel. As soon as your bevel is in, continued honing, especially on one side only, will immediately start deflecting the edge upward, particularly with heavy pressure. Now you don't NEED to raise a burr if the bevel is truly set. I would like you to go to the extreme though, just so you learn to recognize it. So grab a junkbox razor and wail away on it. You will get this. And maybe once you got it, you will feel that you don't really need to do it this way, but at least you will be able to, and will understand it.
  19. I have a shapton kuromaku 1500, and i felt it took too long too. So i got the 1000 and the 2000 in same series. Now i progress from 1000 and up. To me that cut the number of laps way down to perhaps 1/4 or so.
    Read somewhere there is a difference as to what kind of abrassive there is in the 1000 and the 1500, which should explain why the 1000 is lots more effective in creating a burr. My own experience then added the need for the 2000 to smooth the edge further using the 2000 after the 1500.
    Will try later to find the source.

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