Based on how wide that bevel is I'd say this is exactly what was happening.
Setting the Bevel with the Burr Method
- Thread starter Slash McCoy
- Start date
Yup, a 5-minute fix could have prevented a lot of wear, Heel Correction.
You are honing on the stabilizer’(s) and the tang, that is keeping the heel half of the razor off the stone. So, you used more pressure to try to force the heel half on the stone and ground the toe excessively because that is what was hitting the stone.
Lay the razor on the stone with the stabilizer on the stone and hold the stone up to the light, you will see where the heel half of the razor is not touching the stone.
Correcting/ reprofiling the heel will allow the razor to sit on the stone flat without touching the stabilizer.
The need for Heel correction is common with Dovo’s even brand new. But is an easy fix.
Heel Correction/reprofiling. It's not from too much pressure, if it was shoulderless, maybe.
You are honing on the stabilizer’(s) and the tang, that is keeping the heel half of the razor off the stone. So, you used more pressure to try to force the heel half on the stone and ground the toe excessively because that is what was hitting the stone.
Lay the razor on the stone with the stabilizer on the stone and hold the stone up to the light, you will see where the heel half of the razor is not touching the stone.
Correcting/ reprofiling the heel will allow the razor to sit on the stone flat without touching the stabilizer.
The need for Heel correction is common with Dovo’s even brand new. But is an easy fix.
Heel Correction/reprofiling. It's not from too much pressure, if it was shoulderless, maybe.
Maybe it's the angle of the photo, but the bevel looks too wide even at the narrowest point where it wasn't making contact (below the IN). Since he's using tape, if anything the bevel reveal ought to be getting narrower due to the effective angle getting more obtuse. Obviously he was honing up into the stabilizer, I'm not arguing that.
Oh, it is possible to flex the middle of the bevel, but that would require a LOT of pressure/torque, or finger pressure a la knife honing technique.
If you look at the heel hook, you can see how much width has been needlessly ground away, probably about 2mm, maybe more.
That he did 2000 laps, more likely that he burned through the tape and the stroke was very irregular, you can see where there are hone marks on the tang.
Correct the heel move the corner about a ¼ inch from the stabilizer, Ink the bevel with colored ink, and do one lap and see where the bevel is contacting the stone.
Honing on the Stabilizers is keeping half the bevel off the stone.
To the OP, don’t worry, this is all very normal for a new honer, the good news is, you used tape and likely did not trash the bevel.
This razor can easily be fixed and made to shave well. Once you get the bevel flat on the hone, you will need much few laps, less pressure and if you slow down, way more control to produce even bevels and straight edges.
PM if you need help with the heel.
If you look at the heel hook, you can see how much width has been needlessly ground away, probably about 2mm, maybe more.
That he did 2000 laps, more likely that he burned through the tape and the stroke was very irregular, you can see where there are hone marks on the tang.
Correct the heel move the corner about a ¼ inch from the stabilizer, Ink the bevel with colored ink, and do one lap and see where the bevel is contacting the stone.
Honing on the Stabilizers is keeping half the bevel off the stone.
To the OP, don’t worry, this is all very normal for a new honer, the good news is, you used tape and likely did not trash the bevel.
This razor can easily be fixed and made to shave well. Once you get the bevel flat on the hone, you will need much few laps, less pressure and if you slow down, way more control to produce even bevels and straight edges.
PM if you need help with the heel.
I missed the tiny flat on the tang -- dollar to a doughnut it was the same thing I've done!
You will need to hone that razor at an angle, just like a Gold Dollar 66 so the stabilizer and tang do not reach the surface of the stone. When anything but the spine and bevel hit the stone, the edge will lift.
Clean up the heel, hone with the razor at an angle on the stone, and all will be well.
You will need to hone that razor at an angle, just like a Gold Dollar 66 so the stabilizer and tang do not reach the surface of the stone. When anything but the spine and bevel hit the stone, the edge will lift.
Clean up the heel, hone with the razor at an angle on the stone, and all will be well.
I followed your tutorial. I tried the best I could. Not sure if it’s adequate
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Here is one lap on a 1k stone. I marked it prior with a sharpie
The bevel plane is from the edge apex to the top of the spine wear. In my opinion you need to remove the tape to be able to create that plane. You can always add tape later to minimize spine wear.
You can get an ok edge also if you use tape, but the spine geometry will fight you, and the resulting edge will probably not be as good.
This is not an tape vs no tape situation, where the geometry is sorted out. It's about geometry.
I have the same razor. It was more difficult to get a good edge on then my other Dovo 5/8 carbon razors.
The last thing you do with this type of steel is to create a burr.
To get to planes to meet at one point there will always be some burr, but if you can feel it, and see it without magnification it's too big.
You can get an ok edge also if you use tape, but the spine geometry will fight you, and the resulting edge will probably not be as good.
This is not an tape vs no tape situation, where the geometry is sorted out. It's about geometry.
I have the same razor. It was more difficult to get a good edge on then my other Dovo 5/8 carbon razors.
The last thing you do with this type of steel is to create a burr.
To get to planes to meet at one point there will always be some burr, but if you can feel it, and see it without magnification it's too big.
That is much better, but you want to move the heel corner well away from the edge of the stabilizer.
You can see where you are still honing on the stabilizer a bit, (Green Arrow), you want to move the heel corner, about a ¼ inch away, (Red Arrow) from the stabilizer edge, (Blue Arrow).
If you grind your sharpie mark and remove all the black ink you will be very close, move the corner further away from the stabilizer and round the corner it will look better.
This edge looks better, and the heel half of the razor is now sitting flat on the stone. The toe half can easily be honed with a rolling X stroke, lightly lifting the heel about a millimeter or two to fully hone the toe, just enough lift to shift the pressure to the toe as you make your stroke.
You are very close.
Leave the tape on until you master honing, (can set a bevel fully in 40 or so laps and get a comfortable shaving edge), had you not taped the bevel you would have trashed the spine and then you would have all manner of issues.
Yes, on some razors the edge can be improved honing without tape, but for most razors only minimally, the last 2% of perfection.
Keep the tape on for now, in fact get some ¾ inch, Kapton tape from eBay about $10 you can tape over electrical or just use Kapton, it is much thinner and will last longer than electrical.
It is so thin it can be a pain to use, buy a tape dispenser from the dollar store for easy dispensing.
Red or Blue sharpie is much easier to see, black can look like a shadow. WD40 and a paper towel will remove all the sharpie ink.
If you decide to hone the razor without tape, a new bevel can be cut with a 4-6k stone in about 20-40 laps. You can easily take steel off, you can’t put it back on.
Nice work, learning at the speed of instruction!
You can see where you are still honing on the stabilizer a bit, (Green Arrow), you want to move the heel corner, about a ¼ inch away, (Red Arrow) from the stabilizer edge, (Blue Arrow).
If you grind your sharpie mark and remove all the black ink you will be very close, move the corner further away from the stabilizer and round the corner it will look better.
This edge looks better, and the heel half of the razor is now sitting flat on the stone. The toe half can easily be honed with a rolling X stroke, lightly lifting the heel about a millimeter or two to fully hone the toe, just enough lift to shift the pressure to the toe as you make your stroke.
You are very close.
Leave the tape on until you master honing, (can set a bevel fully in 40 or so laps and get a comfortable shaving edge), had you not taped the bevel you would have trashed the spine and then you would have all manner of issues.
Yes, on some razors the edge can be improved honing without tape, but for most razors only minimally, the last 2% of perfection.
Keep the tape on for now, in fact get some ¾ inch, Kapton tape from eBay about $10 you can tape over electrical or just use Kapton, it is much thinner and will last longer than electrical.
It is so thin it can be a pain to use, buy a tape dispenser from the dollar store for easy dispensing.
Red or Blue sharpie is much easier to see, black can look like a shadow. WD40 and a paper towel will remove all the sharpie ink.
If you decide to hone the razor without tape, a new bevel can be cut with a 4-6k stone in about 20-40 laps. You can easily take steel off, you can’t put it back on.
Nice work, learning at the speed of instruction!
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