The Burr Method of honing is perhaps the method of setting a bevel that is most easily understood perfectly. It is the most sure and positive means of setting a bevel, as the method itself is the proof. There is no guessing and very little subjectivity. It is fairly fast, and easy to learn for a newbie. It is not the only way, but it is a very good way. I have spelled it out in detail in many many posts, and so I felt it was time to set it down once and for all, so I could simply point to the thread. The cons are, well, there really aren't any, apart from that raising the burr and then honing it off are a waste of steel. A waste of such small magnitude that it is only an issue if you do it multiple times. Setting the bevel should only ever need to be done ONCE. Losing a few extra steel molecules doesn't particularly dismay or concern me, when it is a one time thing. If it does you, then there is no need for you to read further. "Normal" honing involves placing the razor flat on a hone with both spine and edge touching, landing the spine first, then sweeping the razor edge forward up or down the hone. To or from the honer. At the end of the stroke, the edge is flipped up and over, with the spine remaining on the hone. Then the blade is once again stroked along the hone edge first. At the end of the return stroke, flip the edge out and over again, and you have made one round trip up and down the hone, or one lap. These alternating laps are very kind to the blade. They remove steel from both sides evenly. They work well with heavy or light pressure. These alternating laps are what you will use the majority of the time. But not for raising a burr. One sided honing has the advantage, in setting the bevel, of being capable of raising a burr. Instead of flipping the blade, the same side remains down on the hone for a considerable number of laps. It can be as little as 50, or up into the thousands, depending on hone grit and blade condition. The lap count is not important, except in that you want the lap counts for the two sides of the blade to be about the same when you are finished setting the bevel. The razor is honed with the same side down until a burr is detected, period. A burr is a bit of edge steel that is deflected upward from the hone by the action of honing only one side and using some considerable pressure to do so. Typically the pressure used is about the weight of your arm, maybe a bit more, but not bearing down with the upper body. But back to the burr. If you run your fingertip lightly across the blade from spine to edge and then off the edge, as if driving a car off a cliff, a burr will very faintly catch at your fingertip. This can be very subtle. Feel both sides to be sure. The two sides will feel different and then you will know what the burr feels like. The burr will appear in one spot first, and then gradually extend up and down the entire length of the edge. When you have a burr along the entire edge, flip the razor and hone the other side. The burr will then be down on the hone, so it will be honed off straight away. You now are trying to raise a new burr on the opposite side. Remember, the burr is always deflected upward. Anyway, keep going and do the same number of laps on this side as you did on the first side, and test for the burr. If the burr is present along the entire edge, congratulate yourself. Otherwise, hone until you get it, then hit the first side again to balance out the lap count. Now I said hone one side until the burr is evident along the entire edge. In practice, often this can waste even more steel than necessary in the case of a very crudely ground razor. If your lap count gets up to a couple or three hundred, go ahead and flip the blade and balance the lap counts. Now you may find that you have a burr or partial burr on the new side. Or maybe not. If not, you know what to do. do another hundred or so, and test. Then another hundred, and test. Don't keep going forever... flip again. Keep the lap count roughly balanced and eventually you will remove enough steel to expose the bevel buried in there. Fewer laps in each go will waste less steel. Too few and you won't feel the burr. Once you have raised a burr on each side in turn, and balanced the laps, it is time to hone the burr off. I prefer to go straight to normal alternating laps for this. Others use a diminishing lap scheme that I will get into in a moment. But my way begins with moderate pressure, about the weight of my forearm. and by the 10th lap I am down to the weight of my hand. Eventually I am down to the weight of the razor. The burr is eventually honed away and the bevel is set. It is proven, since the burr was raised on both sides and therefore the two bevel planes met at an apex. With the weight of the razor only, it is almost impossible to increase the amount of fin or foil edge, so don't worry overly much about over honing. The diminishing method works thusly. Raise the burr on both sides. Now do a group of 10 laps on one side, then the other side. 8 laps on the first side, then the second. 6 and 6. 4 and 4. 3 and 3, 2 and 2, then 1 and 1 and continue normally. These diminishing sets are done with light pressure. What they do is sort of transfer the burr frrom side to side and hone it away bit by bit. If you love intricate methods, use the diminishing sets method for removing your burr. This is how you set the bevel on a hollowground razor with a straight edge. For a smiling razor of course it is a bit more complex. You have to roll heel and toe up to get contact with all of the curved edge. I suggest you stick with a straight edged razor for the first couple of attempts. A wedge requires tape, or else freehand honing. I won't go into that here. The most common way to thoroughly hose up the proceedings is to let the razor's shoulder ride up on the hone. This presses the toe into the hone, causing the edge to curve spineward over time. It also prevents the heel end of the edge from contacting the hone. Another common mistake is laying the hone flat on a solid object, and using both hands to "control" the razor. It is much better to hone in hand. Hold the hone in your off hand loosely, so it is sort of floating out there in the space in front of you. Now the razor and hone will find their own alignment and pressure is easily moderated and balanced. A poorly lapped stone will also hinder your efforts. Best way to lap a stone is to draw a grid on the surface, and rub it on a whole sheet of sandpaper glued carefully to heavy glass or granite or whatever. Polished marble tile works. There are "flattening stones" but to be MOST effective, they must be significantly larger than the stone being lapped. Over running the edges or ends compromises finished flatness. A bevel setter most commonly is a 1k grit synthetic stone or a natural stone that behaves in similar fashion. It can also be lapping film at 15u, 12u, or 9u grit. Sandpaper is sometimes used. But sometimes a lot of steel obviously needs to be removed, and rather than put a thousand laps on your nice new Chosera, you might want to start out with a hundred set or two on a 600 grit stone or even coarser. As a rule, always go coarser if there is a visible chip or ding in the edge. 300 grit. 240. 150. 100. Whatever it takes. Just leave enough meat on the blade for the progression of finer grits to remove the deep scratches without honing down into steel that needs to stay on the razor. If in doubt, go finer. If impatient, either learn patience or start coarser. 10 guesses what I do. After successfully and correctly using the method, the bevel will pass all the standard bevel tests such as thumbnail, cherry tomato, forearm shaving, etc. I hope that this post has been informative, and that subsequent replies will clarify anything that I did not explain properly. Good Luck, and Happy Honing!