I've read several times that you're best to set the bevel with a 1K hone, could one use 1K grit paper on a hard flat surface to set the bevel in the same manner as a stone?
Setting bevel with paper?
- Thread starter Munxcub
- Start date
Yes you can!
I've used 600 grit with very good results.
Just make sure it's flat & that you use light strokes.
I'll always used wet/dry paper with water & used the water as "glue" so the paper sticks to the surface.
- Thread starter
- #3
excellent... might have to try this, I could take it to 2k with just the paper I have, and if I don't suck at it I'll look at getting my own stones.
ETA: Would a big ceramic tile be flat enough? Provided it doesn't have some sort of fake texture to it?
ETA: Would a big ceramic tile be flat enough? Provided it doesn't have some sort of fake texture to it?
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Most probably it will work.
Test it & if it isn't dead flat, you'll know, because the razor will cut into the paper
Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #5
Good to know 
As it stands right now, this razor doesn't even take hair off my arm so I can't make it worse.
As it stands right now, this razor doesn't even take hair off my arm so I can't make it worse.
I use a glass table top to lap my hones, so that would work, too (doesn't hurt the glass).
Maybe it's just that he is the one wearing the pants in the familyNot married, eh?
I use the counter-top at the kitchen sink to lap the stones.
Very easy to get the mess just down the drain.
I would never set a bevel with sandpaper, that's how edges get ruined imo. Some guys do it, some don't but I have heard horror stories about sandpaper and Lynn has said the same so I listened.
Congratulations! Lynn reads this forum every day and you just earned yourself some brownie points.
I also use a piece of glass.
Do you guys not worry about grit becoming dislodged from the sand-paper?
I've collected coti powder from lapping on sand paper, and I've noticed specs of grit in the powder, and i do believe the horror story's could have some truth in them.
I'd hate to see the damage that even one stray grit could do to a razors edge... For that matter, I've recently seen the damage that a single micro chip can do when it falls out and damages the bevel on subsequant strokes.
I just don't have the faith in the sand-paper you guys do. I guess I'd wonder why bother? Low grit hones are dirt cheap and readily available to most people. If the choice is between sandpaper and a knife sharpening quality hone from WalMart or HomeDepot, I'd just get the stone.
I've collected coti powder from lapping on sand paper, and I've noticed specs of grit in the powder, and i do believe the horror story's could have some truth in them.
I'd hate to see the damage that even one stray grit could do to a razors edge... For that matter, I've recently seen the damage that a single micro chip can do when it falls out and damages the bevel on subsequant strokes.
I just don't have the faith in the sand-paper you guys do. I guess I'd wonder why bother? Low grit hones are dirt cheap and readily available to most people. If the choice is between sandpaper and a knife sharpening quality hone from WalMart or HomeDepot, I'd just get the stone.
I would use lapping paper myself.It is a lot sturdier than sandpaper. The abrasive doesn't come loose like it does with sandpaper but it removes metal much faster than the same grit hone.
Just for the record, we're talking about the kind of wet/dry abrasive paper that's used by body shops, not plain sandpaper.
I thought we were referring to plain sandpaper, my bad.
So was I, though I didn't mention it specifically.
I still think it has a tendency to shed particles.
Edit:
Wether they make a difference or not, I have no idea. A loose 1000 grit particle is no worse, I guess, on paper, or a stone.
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I have a 4" x 12" (approximate) piece of heavy tempered glass that I use. A smear of rubber cement holds the paper nicely and another dab holds the glass onto a bench or counter or table. The rubber cement comes right off when I am finished. Just apply a bit to both surfaces, wait until barely still tacky, and stick them together. Holds like, well, like glue, I guess. Instant bond.
I like the cheapie diamond hones I get from Harbor Freight and Tools, myself. You can get a set for around $15 that will do double duty as knife sharpening stones. They are just the thing to get a really trashed edge ready for a few laps on the 1k and then the finer stones. When they wear out, no biggie. (If they wear out too quickly, you are probably using way too much pressure!) But wet/dry paper on the glass plate works quite well, too. I have never "ruined" an edge on that.
I like the cheapie diamond hones I get from Harbor Freight and Tools, myself. You can get a set for around $15 that will do double duty as knife sharpening stones. They are just the thing to get a really trashed edge ready for a few laps on the 1k and then the finer stones. When they wear out, no biggie. (If they wear out too quickly, you are probably using way too much pressure!) But wet/dry paper on the glass plate works quite well, too. I have never "ruined" an edge on that.
- Thread starter
- #18
Oh don't get me wrong, I would get hones today (if I could find any locally) or just order some first thing tomorrow, but this close to Christmas I am not allowed to buy anything. Especially when they are on my list...
The paper I have, and I am just impatient and want to keep moving this resto forward... heh. Just wanted to see if it was possible, advisable, etc... Because in my head 1000 grit paper should have the same effect as 1000 grit stone.
The paper I have, and I am just impatient and want to keep moving this resto forward... heh. Just wanted to see if it was possible, advisable, etc... Because in my head 1000 grit paper should have the same effect as 1000 grit stone.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
It will work! But what about finer stones? I don't think you want to go straight from 1k paper to pasted strop! As a minimum I would want to semi-finish on a 6k or 8k before hitting the paste.
If you're worried, get wet/dry made by a highly reputable sandpaper manufacturer (like Norton or 3M). I suspect (but have nothing to back this up with) that the problems people have result from using cheap wet/dry (or normal sandpaper that can't handle being used wet), which probably uses a poor quality adhesive to bind the abrasive to the paper.
Or, go even further and just get some lapping film. Lapping film is basically wet/dry paper (well, except the stuff with plastic backing unless there exists wet/dry paper with plastic backing) with stricter manufacturing tolerances. Lapping film with aluminum oxide as the abrasive can be found for not much money.
Or, go even further and just get some lapping film. Lapping film is basically wet/dry paper (well, except the stuff with plastic backing unless there exists wet/dry paper with plastic backing) with stricter manufacturing tolerances. Lapping film with aluminum oxide as the abrasive can be found for not much money.
