When I put the epoxy in and stir it with a toothpick it starts to flow down around the cork and the level goes down of epoxy so I add just enough more to get my level right for the knot and continue to mix it ubtil I am ready to set the set the knot and there really isn't much space left and whatever space is left is sealed off by the epoxy making it impossible for water to get there.
Setting a knot in a hollow handle?
- Thread starter GreekGuy
- Start date
That handle's been hollow for what, 30, 40 years? You won't be doing anything different than how it was originally manufactured.
- Thread starter
- #23
Well, the original knot sat on a platform in the opening of the handle. So the cavity was completely plugged so to speak.
Since my knot is going to be lowered deep into the handle, there will be open space around the knot. Technically above the plug portion, but well below the opening in the handle
Since my knot is going to be lowered deep into the handle, there will be open space around the knot. Technically above the plug portion, but well below the opening in the handle
right, but i believe they usually have the shelves built into them.
I think most people drill out the shelves in the process of removing the knot. if you can remove the knot with the original shelf intact then its a different story.
- Thread starter
- #25
That's true. I completely busted the old shelf. But the 20mm knot I got from TGN had a 70mm loft. So the shelf had to go either way.
So I'm doing the same thing almost. On the everready c40. I ordered a 20 mm badger knot. I am hoping I left the hole deep enough to set my knot in. It's about five pennies deep. It's heavy heavy to as I filled it with epoxy and pennies. The loft of the knot I bought is 60mm and I'm guessing I'm 6 or 7mm deep( I hope) but the epoxy covering the gaps around the top doesn't seem to be a problem..
The technique in this thread Great Grandpa's Brush Restore (Hess #4) looks like a good approach. That's my plan for my next restoration.
