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September 2023 Gentlemanly Restraint Until Month End (GRUME)

Still in. DFS 2 pass, 2nd pass ATG and no problem on the neck today. Another beautiful face lather with Crown cream.

Razor: Gillette Red and Black Deluxe c.1934
Blade: Astra SP (3)
Brush: Zenith horse hair
Cream: Crown Shaving Co. (SOTM)
AS: Thayer's Witch Hazel Face Tonic unscented Barbasol 1919 Balm
Still in!

This is my 3rd lather with my new Shavemac Finest 22/44 fan. It's a great brush. It feels a bit smaller on my face compared to my D01 22/46 fan but it creates and releases lather really well. I will be getting a 24/48 or 24/50 fan in the future. The Shavemac sale runs until October 8th so you may not see me next month.

To me the Shavemac finest seems to be right in between Simpsons Best and Simpsons Super. Next week I will do a comparison between my Simpsons and this brush to be sure.


I shaved a fortune
Gents, I just received word from Augustin from Atelier Durdan that my antique La Faulx is ready; the order was placed months ago. This is a custom finish, not one he normally offers. What do you think?

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I don't want to assume.... so Augustin sent your the photos of your razor before he shipped it? I'm wondering because I got an email saying mine was "en route" but in French, of course. I didn't get any photos, though. He did confirm the Premium Polishing I added a few weeks ago. The French Post doesn't have the package in their possession yet, so I'm guessing the shipping label has been created.
Thank you for sharing..! I have been eyeing the "flat tops" for a long time.
Oops! This is a "restraint" string ...!
I guess you have to start somewhere ... I'll have to start practicing restraint on the Shavemac Flattops./🙅‍♀️🙅‍♀️🙅‍♀️

OK, restraint it is, then.
Actually I already have a wonderful Shavemac brush ... an incredibly dense brush:

My "Wall of Badger" ....

So, today's Shave of "restraint":

Brush: Shavemac custom D01 Silvertip 2-band (25/52)
Soap: Mitchell's Wool Fat
Razor: RR SS Lupo (.72)
Blade: Gliette Silver Blue (1st)
A/S: Alun Block, Floid (New Genuine)

This collective "Restraint" commitment makes a lot of sense. How ridiculous that I was close to buying yet another expensive shaving brush, almost identical to the one I already have. What a fantastic brush I found in my shave den! So dense.
The Fat is one of my all time favourites, though had not used it for a while. Puck was a little dry (I normally keep it soaked) but it loaded just brilliantly anyway, masses of super creamy lather. Post-shave feel of this lather is second to none..!
The Gillette Silverblue blade is not really among my favourites. I think it's supposed to be very similar to the "Rubie" which IS one of my favourite blades, but in my experience the Rubie is both sharper and smoother than the Silverblue.
Perhaps it was just because I loaded it in my Lupo razor, which is one of my very favourite razors. Especially for touch-ups I find the Lupo is like a surgical precision instrument. Worth every penny (I won't need another razor, even though I am already eyeing the RR Superslant ...and a handful of select antique ones).
Finally on the A/S:
Some people here on B&B have a lot of praise for the new Floid "the Genuine". It came in a new formula a while ago, replacing the old Genuine, and the Vigoroso, both being discontinued.
I for one, am not entirely happy with this move by Floid. The new Genuine is nowhere near the fantastic feel of the Vigoroso. Alas, it's still not a bad aftershave.
PS: take a look at this list of products...! Thinking of shaving with all this, as "restraint". really seems a bit ridiculous..!!
I am definitely in for the October GRUME (I did not even enroll formally for September).

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I shaved a fortune
I'm still in and in need of a shave. @JAHE asked me to do a shave off between the RR SuperSlant L2++ and the Merkur 37C. I was going to use my ATT X1 but I'll use the SuperSlant in a few hours. I should be able to get the 37C shave in before the end of the month.

I feel a bit odd about GRUME. I'm waiting to put my name on the Wolfman list this month... no big deal... but my La Faulx looks like it will be posted before the end of the month. It's true, I paid for it in July and added the Premium Polish sometime before the beginning of this month, but I don't feel like I qualify for the Spirit of GRUME, if that makes sense.

I'm breezing through the month, according to the rules. I'm not sure I'll feel a sense of accomplishment when this month ends, however. If I'm not making any sense, I'm sorry..... I'm sort of musing in type.
I don't want to assume.... so Augustin sent your the photos of your razor before he shipped it? I'm wondering because I got an email saying mine was "en route" but in French, of course. I didn't get any photos, though. He did confirm the Premium Polishing I added a few weeks ago. The French Post doesn't have the package in their possession yet, so I'm guessing the shipping label has been created.
Mine was a ‘custom’ order, an antique finish that isn’t normally offered. He’s checking in to see if I’m happy with the result.
It is, but if he keeps it up this might turn into a business! Haha!

Any suggestions for knot? I am a fan of synthetics I have found, but if there are badgers I really need to try - let me know.


I am not well versed in the synthetics you use as I only have 1 synth, a RV Muhle STF, which I haven't used in while. Often my favourite brush is the last brush I purchased 🤣. If you are looking at Shavemac knots, my favourite is D01 Silvertip fan ( 3 band).

My 24mm knot started out a little prickly but after 5 or 6 lathers it became very soft. My 22mm was soft sooner. Even though they are not big knots it feels like a wall of badger and seems to hold the perfect amount of water for the way I face lather. For me its a soft scrub and I think the scrub is all due to the density of the brush.
September GRUME (15)
Still in.
9-25-23 Monday 7pm

Razor: Overlander brass
Blade: Nacet (3)
Soap: RR Blue Barbershop
Brush: Semogue 1250
Pre: Shower
Post: Clubman

Lovely slick, great smelling lather.
Went for 3 passes, including almost ATG on my throat.
DFS+ so so close to BBS!
Closed out with a healthy splash of Clubman...fantastic!

Be well
Still out, and SBAD is going strong thinks to you guys…. Two Shavemac’s I’ve been eyeing for awhile are on the way plus this custom from @Rudy Vey arrived today and I already have another idea for him.

SOTD: 09/25/2023

Razor: Karve Christopher Bradley “American”
Blade: Treet Platinum, 3rd use
Brush: Rudy Vey X3 w/ 24mm Shavemac Silvertip Badger
Preshave: PAA The Cube 2.0
Soap: Martin De Candre Fougère
Aftershave: Tabac Original Aftershave
Additional Care: Thayer’s Cucumber WH
Fragrance: YSL Body Kouros EdT
Day 25, 83.3% complete

Preshave: Hot washcloth
Soap: Mitchell's Wool Fat (Tallow)
Brush: Yaqi 24mm synthetic cashmere
Razor: GC.84 SB, Al Handle, Nacet #7
Bowl: Turkish copper
Post-shave: Nivea Balm, Hyaluronic Acid

Same again. We're down to 19g of Woolfat now.
I'm hoping some tallow MWF shows up in St Sue auction!

I have 1 puck I purchased last December but haven't used it yet.
Still in. I have been dreading my next Feather Shave. I couldn’t stop at 354, so I thought I’d tough out one more (after a couple of face resting electric shaves). I lather with Mike’s. I loaded the Tech. I used light strokes. What? It seems to be shaving just fine! I got a closer shave in the chin area than I’ve had in several days! I would rate it a 9.85. I’m going to be pressing forward to 360 now.

FWIW: over the life of this blade I have been certain several times that it was done. I binned it at 17, then after getting 41 shaves with my next Feather, I pulled it out for more shaves. I have been on the verge of tossing it a few more times, but it suddenly starts behaving on the prospect of rejection.
365 daily shaves
GRUME September
Blade Biter’s Archive05/32

Timeless Ti95 SCLGillette Black (31)Omega Super Badger
Cold splash
KCG Face Wash
Proraso Green preshave
LavandaCold splash

PassesWTG XTG ATG and touch up
(details here)
Quality / My process
8/10 (~20m)9.5/10 (Tiny one)
EffectivenessComfort / Blade condition
9/10 (BBS)
10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes to this shave:

Summary - Excellent results following excellent gear.

For extended shave notes click here.

Enjoy your shave!
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