Science time: rusting a blade on purpose

[Esthan]

Together with a SR that I wanted I got a batch of razors that I actually intend to destroy for purpose of knowledge.

For now I have the idea to clean one to bare shiny metal and:
- cover one half of it with mineral oil
- leave other uncoated

Then let it hanging outside, exposed to moisture changes but with no direct rain and just document how much does actually the mineral oil help in rust prevention (pictures and time frame)

But I'm open to ideas, suggestions for this experiment.

 

[Eastcoast30]

Actually, if you want to do some scientific experimenting:

Stick a razor into a potato and you will get a colorful patina. And while that patina is considered oxidation, it will prevent your razor from rusting further.

You can ao do this with an onion, and even mustard. By arranging shredded potato or onion or mustard, you can get some creative designs.

 

[5whiskey]

Vinegar will also force a patina on carbon steel. I have a razor that I forced a patina by placing in a jar of white vinegar. Came out with quite a nice even gray patina.

OP if you choose to rust razors, at least rust the junk blades. I actually have a few I could send you. You could also just use most any scrap of carbon steel, it doesn't have to be a razor. But, there's also been pretty extensive home testing on corrosion resistant products previously. The link I'm attaching is for gun oil products which also evaluate friction reduction, but the lower part of the page focuses on corrosion resistance. It's pretty eye opening.

Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared | Day At The Range

By: DIY_guy We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began

dayattherange.com

 

[Esthan]

In this case I actually want to check the blade and mineral oil specifically.

Most of my life I've used stainless steel for any form of cutting tools and am actually extremely curious about how fast and how serious things can get.

 

[Possum092]

Go for it; it doesn’t take long with high carbon steel exposed to humidity. Salt water, seaside living conditions, and any salts will expedite the process. Traditional builders of muzzleloaders sometimes use urine to brown (rust) steel barrels and locks. This process usually takes 5-7 days to get the right rust brown patina. Mineral oil will form a protective barrier, but it can be washed away.

 

[Legion]

Probably don't need to leave it outside. Just leave it in a corner of your bathroom, and let any humidity, steam, etc eat it.

 

[Alum of Potash]

Interesting premise for a thread. I've received some eBay junkers with such beautiful patinas at times that I could not bring myself to remove them. Just honed them as if they were Damascus steel.

I've fumed brass hardware with ammonia for some cabinetry projects in the past. Would there be a similar way to fume a carbon steel blade?

 

[Legion]

Interesting premise for a thread. I've received some eBay junkers with such beautiful patinas at times that I could not bring myself to remove them. Just honed them as if they were Damascus steel.

I've fumed brass hardware with ammonia for some cabinetry projects in the past. Would there be a similar way to fume a carbon steel blade?

Some substances off gas and corrode steel. Cedar wood, for example, will release slightly acidic fumes. I suppose if you left a razor in a sealed box with an open container of vinegar it might create an acidic micro climate.

 

[Alum of Potash]

Some substances off gas and corrode steel. Cedar wood, for example, will release slightly acidic fumes. I suppose if you left a razor in a sealed box with an open container of vinegar it might create an acidic micro climate.

Thanks. I was thinking of acetic acid (vinegar) and nitric acid, which are corrosive to breathe and quite active on silver. Lemon juice or citric acid also come to mind, although I don't don't think they give off much as to fumes.

I have witnessed what cedar can do to natural stones in storing them in cedar boxes. Makes them nice and butterscotch.

 

[Legion]

Thanks. I was thinking of acetic acid (vinegar) and nitric acid, which are corrosive to breathe and quite active on silver. Lemon juice or citric acid also come to mind, although I don't don't think they give off much as to fumes.

I have witnessed what cedar can do to natural stones in storing them in cedar boxes. Makes them nice and butterscotch.

Yeah, I once managed to corrode a stainless steel watch a bit by storing it in a nice cedar box.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

I restore a lot of antique tools, a lot of carbon steel and cast iron.

I use vinegar to remove years of rust without removing paint or Japaning. Most restoration websites are dead set against vinegar, claiming it is not aggressive enough or it is too aggressive and damages steel and cast iron.

Years of using vinegar, I have found that it works much better if the parts are soaked and cleaned well in hot water and degreaser. Removing oil and grease allows the vinegar to attack the rust.

The trick is hot water to heat the part and 15-20 minute soak in a 50% vinegar hot water solution, then scrub the parts to remove surface rust loosened by the vinegar. Another 15-20 minutes will remove all but the most stubborn rust. Usually, 3-4 soaks will get me to bare metal for stubborn rust.

Most folks are looking for a dunk it and forget it solution, like Evaporust. Vinegar is an acid and if a part is left too long, it will eat metal.

But if I do not degrease it will prevent the vinegar from getting to the rust.

To protect metal and steel from rust I use bee’s wax furniture polish, I like the patina it gives to old metal, and it does not look like it has been over polished. But if I do want a hard protective coating where I do not care about the shiny look, like cutting tool blades, I use modern Automotive paint sealant, it is much more effective than oils and waxes. I like Menzerma also marketed as Jescar.

It also works very well on glass, shower doors and windshields, it does not streak.

 

[pierrelortie44]

Aren’t these blades stainless steel, like kitchen sinks and utensils?

 

[5whiskey]

Aren’t these blades stainless steel, like kitchen sinks and utensils?

I dare say most razors, most especially vintage razors, are likely carbon steel. Stainless has come a very long way, but still its difficult to create sharp edges on stainless blades that will rival edges on carbon blades.

Most stainless razors will be newer, and marketed as such. And stainless blades can take a fine edge with patience, but stainless is usually more difficult to work. Especially when finishing.

 

[Straight up]

Make sure you record the relative humidity & temperature during the experiment.

 

[Brutus]

Together with a SR that I wanted I got a batch of razors that I actually intend to destroy for purpose of knowledge.

For now I have the idea to clean one to bare shiny metal and:
- cover one half of it with mineral oil
- leave other uncoated

Then let it hanging outside, exposed to moisture changes but with no direct rain and just document how much does actually the mineral oil help in rust prevention (pictures and time frame)

But I'm open to ideas, suggestions for this experiment.

My 2 cts…

I know that some shavers use it, but mineral oil is not necessarily the oil of choice for protecting straight razors between shaves.
If I wanted to do an experiment like this (and I don’t), I would rather use Ballistol, or possibly TufGlide if I were based in the US.

These are two of the classic oils that have proven themselves, are designed for the purpose, and which many straight shavers agree on, whereas mineral oils, baby oils, massage oils, or plant-based oils are more the outliers.

By comparison, a trial with an oil that is not really intended for the purpose seems to be pretty meaningless to me.


As I said, just my 2 cts…




B.

 

[Esthan]

Did a quick check of the Ballistol Data Sheet.

It's Mineral Oil plus addictives that help clean guns from all the byproducts of shooting. So it does not seem to offer more than plain mineral oil.