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Schick Repeating Razor issues

I just received a Schick Repeating Razor from the large auction site. I bid assuming that it needed a good cleaning and that the finish was less than stellar, but that it was in good working order.

When I unpacked it, it was open, and I tried to close it. The slide moved easily for maybe 1/32", then felt as if it hit a hard stop, so I don't think it's a lubrication problem. Can anyone here advise me on how to fix it?

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Flintstone65

Imagining solutions for imaginary problems
Hmmm, I don't have magazine's for my Schick B's or C's, and I can fully extend and close the slides. I will say that I find them to be a pain in the neck to open and close....or perhaps I should say that they are fiddly. If you google this: schick magazine repeating razor instructions, you'll see videos done by several folks on how to load the razor. While you probably don't have a "magazine" with blades (and again, I don't think they're necessary), you'll see how the mechanism works to open and close the slide. Assuming it's not user-error (or just user-lack-of-knowledge, as it is so often with me), then I might start considering worst-case scenarios, like something fell in the space between the magazine and the head -- like trying to close a kitchen drawer after something has mysteriously popped out the top of the drawer and falls between the back of the drawer and the back of the cabinet creating a wedge.

I will take a look at mine and see if there is a specific latch or magic push/pull that has to be done. Like I said, mine are fiddly, and since I'm the most inept guy you'll ever meet when it comes to mechanical stuff, I just haven't even tried to understand the mechanics. Definitely start with Google, check out the videos, and I would also look (online) for a Schick Magazine Repeating Razor manual....someone may have scanned one so that you can see what Col. Schick had to say about retracting an extended magazine.

Please keep us posted.
 
The "B's" are finicky. I had the same problem with one. The problem I had was that the spring was broken at the very end where the bend is supposed to advance the next blade up (it snapped off), since it was no longer gently curved, it would bind when trying to push the shuttle back in. The good news is that it can still be usable, you just can't let it run out of blades or the broken spring pushes itself back up and blocks the mechanism again. You need to (patiently) get the spring out, and in this case, yes you would have to have a magazine with blade(s) in it to make it work.

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Flintstone65

Imagining solutions for imaginary problems
My recommendation is that you hand load the razor once you fix it. I use a pair of needle nose pliers and either a Schick Proline (B-20) or a yellow packaged Schick (Chinese made) injector blade, and feed it in from the side. The first time someone told me to try this, I thought "NO WAY!!!" -- but it really is easy to do, and these are great shaving razors. I also get well over 10 (usually at least a solid 15) shaves on a blade, so it's not like you're having to load them every other shave. Just my 2-cents.
 
The "B's" are finicky. I had the same problem with one. The problem I had was that the spring was broken at the very end where the bend is supposed to advance the next blade up (it snapped off), since it was no longer gently curved, it would bind when trying to push the shuttle back in. The good news is that it can still be usable, you just can't let it run out of blades or the broken spring pushes itself back up and blocks the mechanism again. You need to (patiently) get the spring out, and in this case, yes you would have to have a magazine with blade(s) in it to make it work.

View attachment 1186393
If the spring broke where your arrow is pointed, that would produce the effect I'm feeling. I'm not quite sure how to get either that sub-assembly or the slide out to fix it. Thanks for posting this photo. I'll report back if I manage to get in there.
 
My recommendation is that you hand load the razor once you fix it. I use a pair of needle nose pliers and either a Schick Proline (B-20) or a yellow packaged Schick (Chinese made) injector blade, and feed it in from the side. The first time someone told me to try this, I thought "NO WAY!!!" -- but it really is easy to do, and these are great shaving razors. I also get well over 10 (usually at least a solid 15) shaves on a blade, so it's not like you're having to load them every other shave. Just my 2-cents.

That sounds like a good idea. in fact, I could do that even if I can't fix it.
 
I think it might need a magazine in it to close. I load mine manually so I don't fool with the mechanics on mine. Sorry, that's all I have. @Flintstone65 should be along.
Good advice. I've taken the advice on B & B and I unload and load blades manually in my two Schick Type Cs using a small screwdriver. Easier than trying to use the 80+ year old plunger, etc. and doesn't stress the inner mechanics. Great razors. Love the heft (nearly 100g).
 
Multiple times I gave up in despair, only to go back to the project a few months later. I'm ashamed to admit how long it took me to spot the jammed blade in there.

I used a dead injector blade to knock the jammed one back inside. After that, it took a little fiddling to get the shuttle out. I loaded it with the contents of a Chick injector blade dispenser and re-assembled the razor. It seemed to load properly.

This morning was my first trial with the beast. The result was my usual - BBS on the cheeks and about half of my neck. The remainder was borderline BBS/DFS.
It was a bit of a blood sacrifice, though, even without chasing the baby. A tiny weeper on my right cheek, and a couple of nicks barely above the clavicles right by the sternum.

Looking at the razor after my shave, I noticed that the blade reveal was greater at one end than at the other even though it was even before the shave. I was able to easily push the errant end back into position with my fingernail. I don't think it should move that easily, and am wondering if the new blades are thinner than the originals, which would account for the looseness. Anybody have any info on that??

So, overall, a qualified success.
 
That's also possible. Blade thickness was my first thought simply because I know DE blades have gotten thinner (.007" down to .004"). Not quite sure what I could do about either one.
 
No one has ever accused me of being handy but it might be possible to remove the head and bend that down a bit. I would probably screw that up, myself.
 
Welcome to the club. I'm about as handy as a screen door on a submarine. Removing the head is easy, just one screw, but with the head being all in one piece, I'd be worried about peening it a little too far and rendering the whole thing useless.
 
I think it might need a magazine in it to close. I load mine manually so I don't fool with the mechanics on mine. Sorry, that's all I have. @Flintstone65 should be along.
I took your sage advice and now load my two Schick C-1s manually, bypassing the plunger in the handles. Prior to loading manually, I fiddled around with the plunger before successfully loading a blade. The resulting shave was rough, probably because I damaged the blade loading it with the plunger. I then pushed out this probably damaged blade with a small screwdriver and manually loaded a new blade with the same screwdriver. The resulting shave was great. Only manual loading for me. My C-1s are in great condition, but they and their plungers are at least 80 years old, so why stress the plungers?
 
Hope this helps scroll to the post and pictures from hypostyle

I also have to tighten the bent flap on my type b and straighten a guard on another...maybe someday
 
Hope this helps scroll to the post and pictures from hypostyle

I also have to tighten the bent flap on my type b and straighten a guard on another...maybe someday
As per some of our wise colleagues, I join in recommending just sliding the blade directly into the head with a screwdriver. Forget the complication loading system.
 
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