Schick injector Type E? My first injector

Hello all,

This is my first schick injector acquisition. Any ideas on the exact type and date? Was wondering where the best place is to purchase blades? For my de razors I use perma-sharps, polsilvers, or nacets for the most part. I prefer something on the sharper side as I have thicker stubble.

Thanks for any help!

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Hello all,

This is my first schick injector acquisition. Any ideas on the exact type and date? Was wondering where the best place is to purchase blades? For my de razors I use perma-sharps, polsilvers, or nacets for the most part. I prefer something on the sharper side as I have thicker stubble.

Thanks for any help!

View attachment 990218
View attachment 990219


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Schick Injector Razor Blades, 7-Count Boxes (Pack of 4) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001E6VHUQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0tOaDb64Y087E
 
Look around your area (assuming you are in the States) for a locally-owned "Good Neighbor" pharmacy. Most of the ones near me carry Schick injector blades (and Wilkies and GEM SE blades and Williams Mug Shave Soap too).
 
Thank you for all the replies! I appreciate all the responses from the B&B forums, this community is awesome! Also had no idea the razor was bent @rudyt , thanks for the info. Hopefully it isn't too bad and won't affect the shave too much. Any risk in trying to gently bend it back a bit? Hopefully I can try this one out soon, barbacide is in the mail and should be delivered today for a few of these vintage razors I'd like to sanitize.
 
You have a Type G1 based on RENALDO.US - Schick Injector razor history and Colonel Jacob Schick

As @Twelvefret recommends, get your Schick blades from Amazon, and don't worry about whether the blades are sharp--they are, and will last for many more shaves than a DE blade. They are also available on eBay, sometimes a little cheaper.
Cheapest I've seen a single 7 pack for Schick injector blades was about $5 and change on Ebay with free shipping.

And to add what differentiates an E from a G model is the patents.
E only has 1 patent number stamped on the left side of the injector
G has 2 patent numbers stamped on the left side of the injector

Both have patent number 1806087, only the G has 1806087 and 1969945 as pictured here.
 
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I would also recommend saving the injector key from the Schick blades afterwards in case you decide to try some of the Japanese made proline B blades which don't come with the key and reload that injector key with them for use. Other thing is these were made to be stored with blades in them so if you don't like to keep the blade in the razor when done take a few spent blades and dull out the cutting edge and use them blanks instead until you are ready to put in a new blade.

If you load one without a blade already in it you can potentially ruin the new blade edge when scrapes across tabs. That is why you put the blank in first and have the key push it out as you put in the fresh blade at the same time and so on and so forth for each blade change.

If you don't have any blades or blanks just sacrifice your first blade in the injector pack and turn it into a blank. Load then eject it out with a new blade then dull the edge on it to use a permanent blank.
 
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Cheapest I've seen a single 7 pack for Schick injector blades was about $5 and change on Ebay with free shipping.

And to add what differentiates an E from a G model is the patents.
E only has 1 patent number stamped on the left side of the injector
G has 2 patent numbers stamped on the left side of the injector

Both have patent number 1806087, only the G has 1806087 and 1969945 as pictured here.
Awesome, thank you very much! I'm excited to try this one out
 
Awesome, thank you very much! I'm excited to try this one out
The E and G models are also different types of shavers. The G models regardless of variant are probably the better one to start out with since they are supposed to be a little less aggressive than an E model. These razors are fairly easy to use once you get used to feel of the blade along with the angle and pressure to use them most correctly without irritating or cutting yourself. You want to almost ride the cap is about the optimal angle on these. If you can't get a smooth glide across the face then you are too much on the cap and need to adjust the angle slightly until you can. From there it is a matter of finding out how much or little pressure to apply.
 
Any risk in trying to gently bend it back a bit? Hopefully I can try this one out soon, barbacide is in the mail and should be delivered today for a few of these vintage razors I'd like to sanitize.
Go for it. Gently and slowly bend it back straight with your hands until it's inline or bent midterm a tiny but inwards (I.e. the opposite way it's bent now, which I call outwards).

Barbicide is not required to sanitize vintage razors, but if it gives you peace of mind, by all means use it. Pathogens don't live long on bare metal, plus what you have is a blade holder, not a blade. I soak my new acquisitions in just off the boil water with a squirt of dishwashing liquid, then scrub with an old toothbrush, and lastly a couple of quick dips in 90% rubbing alcohol.
 
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