What is the proper way to open a Schick Eversharp? I'm guessing prying it open with a flathead screwdriver isn't it.
Schick Eversharp quesiton
- Thread starter A_Jameson
- Start date
What do you mean by "open"?
So far as I can tell, a Schick injector doesn't really open--the "key" on the dispenser just wedges the frame apart enough to slide the new blade in (which pushes the old blade out).
What exactly did you do with the screwdriver?
So far as I can tell, a Schick injector doesn't really open--the "key" on the dispenser just wedges the frame apart enough to slide the new blade in (which pushes the old blade out).
What exactly did you do with the screwdriver?
- Thread starter
- #3
Well my dad picked up two at the antique store the other day and sent them to me. They did have blades in them that were well aged and stuck...
I pried the spring on the bottom enough to "unlock" it so the door on the bottom would swing open so I could clean it easier. It's not broken.
Does the key come with the razor or with a new pack of blades. This is my first experience cleaning up a Schick.
I pried the spring on the bottom enough to "unlock" it so the door on the bottom would swing open so I could clean it easier. It's not broken.
Does the key come with the razor or with a new pack of blades. This is my first experience cleaning up a Schick.
There are a few of the early E-type Injectors that could easily be opened up by rotating the spring under the head, but the later ones became more difficult. The later HydroMagic Injectors open up to allow cleaning.
If you're talking about a G series Eversharp Shick, they really weren't meant to be opened. To do so, you need to brute force the end of the spring enough to get it off of the projection that its notch indexes to.
That being said, 9 out of 10 you come upon have a telltale scratch arc to indicate that this has been done at some point.
There's a real danger of tweaking the preload out of the spring to the point that it's not tight after reassembly. It should not rattle, even before a blade is inserted.
Honestly, if the thing is assembled properly already, I'd merely soak it and scrub it as well as you can and live with whatever soap scum is going to remain between the bits.
Or... spring for an E series that actually is made for this or a Hydro Magic which opens up for cleaning.
- Chris
That being said, 9 out of 10 you come upon have a telltale scratch arc to indicate that this has been done at some point.
There's a real danger of tweaking the preload out of the spring to the point that it's not tight after reassembly. It should not rattle, even before a blade is inserted.
Honestly, if the thing is assembled properly already, I'd merely soak it and scrub it as well as you can and live with whatever soap scum is going to remain between the bits.
Or... spring for an E series that actually is made for this or a Hydro Magic which opens up for cleaning.
- Chris
The "key" is part of the injector magazine that any injector blades you buy come with. Typically whatever blade is in the razor stays there until its replacement is injected in.
- Chris
- Chris
Well my dad picked up two at the antique store the other day and sent them to me. They did have blades in them that were well aged and stuck...
I pried the spring on the bottom enough to "unlock" it so the door on the bottom would swing open so I could clean it easier. It's not broken.
Does the key come with the razor or with a new pack of blades. This is my first experience cleaning up a Schick.
You apparently have a type G or E. Early Es were designed so the spring could pivot. This was discontinued, however. You can pry the spring out of the way, but be very careful because it is very easy to mess it up. The Hydro-Magic had a lever that flipped up and lowered the safety bar.
As far as the key, this is part of the blade cartridge.
Well at least we have our answers well rehearsed 
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- Thread starter
- #10
They do have a light "tell-tale" arc on the plate. Is that a bad thing?
Depends on how picky you are. Several of mine have it.
- Thread starter
- #12
Ok. They are in beautiful shape otherwise.
My understanding has always been that the arc is on all the razors, from the initial closing of the spring to the assembly. I have several of these razors, and have opened and cleaned them all. I just use a really small screwdriver, apply enough negative pressure to open the spring, clean it and put it back together. One injector I got rattled, when I received it. I opened it, used a pair of pliers to put the correct amount of tension back on the "spring" and it now works fine. All the E and G injectors are a little aggressive to me though. I prefer the "L" type.
On my G type, I did pry the spring enough to push it over and open it up. When I closed it up again and put a blade in there, it was a little loose and I had to bend the spring forward a little to put enough tension back on it. All in all, since I got away with it, I'm glad I did it once, since I got a lot of gunk and verdigris out of there. It was a fiddly business, though, and I was worried I'd break something. I probably would not do it again.
I was just coming on here to post the best way I just found to open the injector with the notch and tab lock spring. Find a pencil that will slid into the spring (sticking out equal both sides) and then with both hands pull the spring to you using your thumbs holding the front of the razor and twist it to the left. Then the spring will rest on the tab and you can pull the pencil out and press the spring on over to release it. If it's got a stuck blade in it I would tape the front or just be careful doing it. Also you may need someone to hold the handle or rest it on something so it want move. Anyone that try's this out let us know how it worked for you it's a lot better than metal on metal if you can make it work.
this is the way to do it. i've done the exact same thing to 5 or 6 of these razors, never a problem. just work slowly in small increments and be careful of putting too much pressure forward or backward on the head as it will bend. if that happens, carefully force it back to it original position.
these E and G models while looking a little old fashioned are incredible shavers.
- Thread starter
- #17
What I ended up doing was sticking a screwdriver through the "hole" on the spring and just popping it out. Took the blades out, cleaned it and popped it back into place. They both rattle a bit, one considerably. I'll buy some blades tomorrow, and use a pliers to correct the tension on the spring. Thanks for the info guys, It's much appreciated.
Your best bet for fixing the rattle is to pivot the spring back out to the "open" position before tweaking with the pliers. Then be very careful when putting back into the assembled position to compress it as little as possible. Remember that ultimately the spring needs to simultaneously apply force against the two adjacent surfaces, both clamping the blade in place and forcing it against its stops.
Do not attempt to shave with it until the the rattle is fixed. Ideally, it should be rattle-free before a blade is introduced to the equation.
- Chris
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