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Scale/wedge repair

The center punch I use, is an old Craftsman, small Philip’s screwdriver, that I sharpened to a needle point and hardened in oil quench.

The plastic handle makes it easy to hold and the extra length help to see exactly where the tip is, when you tap it with a hammer. Use several small taps, rather than a heavy blow.

You need to make a divot to start you hole or even a center drill will skate, also if you use a ball burr.
 
Use a new, sharp drill bit, I buy 1/16 bits in bulk, years ago I bought a gang load of good ones on sale, I think they are Cobalt. Probably from Texas Knife. If you buy in bulk, they are much cheaper, and I am more likely to grab a new bit for precision work.
What are the cobalt bits like?
I have used Stanley, Stanley Fatmax and Bosch and they all wobble to some extent. I think the bosch were the best.
All were 1.5mm even though the stanley below are 2mm.
PXL_20220814_145040335.jpg
 
These are hard and sharp. I only use these for drilling pins. I bought them years ago and bought several dozen, 1/16th in., they were unbranded and lose unpackaged.

Probably came from Texas Knife Supply, that has been my go to supplier for years.
 
At least one scale is warped, bowed, causing a loss in length and that is partially the cause of the razor banging into the wedge.
If you are skittish about un-pinning, and there is a small gap inside (looks like it), use a piercing saw to cut the pin on the inside.
Go slow. Always go slow, never ever force the scales.
The pivot crack can probably be secured with CA glue.
Do not oil the scales 1st. You want to glue on dry horn.
Press the scales flat.
Check fit, you may need to dress the blade-facing side of the wedge down a bit.
Reassemble. Pivot washers will help distribute stress more evenly.
Fit the scales to the blade, not the other way around.
 
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