saw issue in doing scales

[Hunter Bock]

Have a few hardwood blanks (~6 x 3/4 in) that I need to section into 1/8 in. slabs. After some experimenting I've concluded that my doing this by hand with a coping or Japanese saw won't yield good results. I'm working with some woods (bog oak, kauri) that I don't want to botch in the learning curve.

My question for the experienced: could I get good results with a scroll saw? Some research has suggested that lower end band saws (my price range) are problematic and don't give good results. I know scroll saws are designed for precision but am wondering if they can cut a straight slab. I won't be working with anything much larger than a pen blank.

Thanks all.

 

[LJS]

How to setup, adjust, and use the tool (any tool) is probably just as important or more than which tool. But the right tool for the job does matter.

First, with some basics and training you should be able to cut veneers with a hand saw. You can, just about learning how.

Second, for straightest cuts, going to a rigid blade like a table saw or radial arm saw will yield straightest results right off but with more kerf.

You should be able to cut straight with either bandsaw or scroll really. Cheap or expensive. Most of the walking a blade can do is related to user error and too much force not allowing the saw to cut. Wider blade helps with straighter cuts but has less turning radius and also little tougher to correct if you get off. When I rip lumber from logs using one of my bandsaws I also overpush and to compensate setup a fence that I adjust with the blade walk - keeps it straight.

If you are picking between a scroll saw and bandsaw I would highly advise bandsaw personally. Much more utility for you.

Good luck!

 

[Hunter Bock]

Thanks LJS. I know a mitre or chop saw would be the quickest but I would only have a single use for either. With a scroll or band saw I could also use for scale cutting. I'm on a budget (say 250) and have been advised there are really no good saws in my range. My materials are hardwood, micarta and acrylic.


Are there cutting guides for scroll saws?

 

[LJS]

I have several band saws dedicated to different things. I guess more than several if I think about it. But, in the air conditioned part of my shop I have an old delta 9” bandsaw I bought around 25 years ago. This year I had to put new tires on it. First issue. It was probably around $100 back then but similar is likely within your budget. Because it is in the AC part of my shop it honestly gets the most use. Not nearly as fast or torquey as my big ones but plenty for everything from non-ferrous metals to cardboard. As long as you can adjust tension and guides then with only a half decent blade you will be good for everything you want with razors and then some. So while spending more can get you a nicer bandsaw, I would think you can get a decent one for your range.

I have a few scroll saws as well. One very nice with all the bells and whistles. I reserve them for more intricate work and where I need very slow speed and very fine blades. AKA scroll work. Actually quite nice for cutting out scales (I still use bandsaw) but I personally wouldn’t use mine for splitting blanks or anything like that. Not even a pen blank. With my little bandsaw I don’t mind cutting aluminum blocks followed by acrylic. Much more versatile really. Unless you are doing some intricate scroll work then bandsaw is probably the right tool for the job.

My two cents. Not trying to convince you, so hope it isn’t coming off that way in my typing.

To try and answer you question specifically, I’m not aware of cutting guides, fences or anything for scroll saws. But I sure don’t know everything so could be. But the main purpose of a scroll saw is to be able to turn the piece in any direction with as tight of a turn or curve as possible.....so mostly guided with your hands and accessories don’t fit that use much. Blades are much finer and you need to get them tight for good work and they do tend to break easily with misuse.

 

[Ice-Man]

To be honest, I bought this one last year as it was cheap I only want it for cutting scales pen blanks and I bought it to cut brush blanks as I bought a jet lathe and for what it is it does a bloody good job of scales yes I cut my timber to 4mm thick for scales cuts acrylic.

A gentleman near to me works with bandsaws all the time and he came and set this one up and I have never touched it as he told me a bandsaw is only as good as the person who set it up and this one cuts very hardwood at times this is the same one i bought yes its a bin price on the bay but it will give you a good idea

Bandsaw here

 

[Hunter Bock]

Thanks Ice-Man. Looks promising but isn't readily available in North America.

For the time being I am using Amazon as my primary tool source.

 

[Hunter Bock]

Here's my current impasse: A 1 x 6 x 1/4 Aformosia blank I want to section into two 1/8 blanks. I've tried with coping and Japanese saws, using clamps, and just can't keep it straight. I think my method is correct (letting the saw do the work, taking your time, appropriate blades) but an acceptable result is not in sight.

My forseeable work will be limited to 6 inch blanks, 3/4 - 1 in. square. Sectioning is critical, using the saw to shape scales would be an extra. Band or scroll? I've found some affordable candidates for both with decent reviews.

Bandsaw wise it seems a nine inch model is ok for my needs, with a minimum 2.5 amp. Scroll saw particulars I'm less clear on. I don't want to end up with anything that can't cut 1 inch hardwood decently.

Thanks everyone.

 

[5whiskey]

For halving those 1/4” blanks into 1/8” (won’t be a true 1/8” because of the blade kerf, but will be close) you will need a decent band saw with a decently secure and accurate rip fence. That’s a pretty advanced cut too. You have near zero margin for error. This task would be possible but tedious and difficult with any scrollsaw I know of and definitely any in your price range, mostly due to lack of rip fence. They are great for fine scroll work, but not so great for straight rip cuts.

If you plan on producing a number of scale blanks from a larger block you definitely need a bandsaw. One with a decent Rip fence. I know it’s of little help with the aformosia blank that you have now, but in the future I would procure blanks thick enough to give you some margin for error when halving. With some room for error, even handsawing would be easy enough.

 

[Steve V.]

Grizzly has some good tools.9" Bandsaw

 

[Slash McCoy]

A small tablesaw is probably the easiest way for you to get nice straight cuts and consistent thicknesses. You will lose about twice as much material compared to using a bandsaw, assuming you have a bandsaw that is nicely set up for that sort of work. Harbor Freight or Home Depot hobbyist size/quality is sufficient for cutting stock for razor scales. If you have a circular saw and like to live dangerously, you could easily turn it temporarily into a table saw. A scroll saw is really not the tool for this at all.

For hand sawing, you could construct a miter box type jig. For just a few pieces, that would be a lot cheaper than buying or building a table saw.