Same angle as Merkur 34C HD but more aggressive?

[stinky87]

So I really love my Merkur 34C HD since I think it is the easiest razor to find the perfect angle on - it is just an effortless shave. However, I have an incredibly coarse beard (combined with pseudo folliculitis, in-grown hairs and sensitive skin) which forces me to only shave once a week (once the hair has fully surfaced from my skin), so I need a razor that is a bit more "aggressive" than the Merkur which can take down my beard with a bit more ease. For the most part I can achieve BBS in two passes (one with the grain and one across) but there is always tugging around my chin. Is there a razor with a similar feeling head/angle but can take down my beard easier?

My gear: Feather blades, Trufitt and Hill unscented pre-shave oil, Art of Shaving Unscented shave cream, Art of Shaving Unscented After Shave, Simpson Chubby Super Badger 2

 

[rabidus]

Was looking for some definition and help

I suggested shimming the 34C in the link above and it worked better for him. Read through the info and see if the shim makes things better for you. More rigidity maybe all you need. You may even be able to shave ATG.

 

[stinky87]

Was looking for some definition and help

I suggested shimming the 34C in the link above and it worked better for him. Read through the info and see if the shim makes things better for you. More rigidity maybe all you need. You may even be able to shave ATG.

Nah, I've been shaving using proper technique for 18 years and I've never been able to shave ATG as I break out in a terrible rash (especially on the neck) and get horrific ingrowns. WTG on my neck only. I once had an ATG shave by a very skilled barber at Trufitt and Hill and it was wonderful.

 

[jar_]

How about a Gillette adjustable. That way you can find the perfect amount of aggressiveness for you.

 

[rabidus]

With a single rigid blade edge, you want to keep a light touch. The more pressure you apply the deeper the stubble is cut beneath the skin. The problem with the 34C and razor designs like it and coarse stubble, the blade will flex and not cut stubble cleanly. Multi blade carts pull and cut and then the stubble retracts beneath the skin.

Your technique is probably fine, the problem maybe the razor.

 

[stinky87]

How about a Gillette adjustable. That way you can find the perfect amount of aggressiveness for you.

Too mild. Before using the 34C I was using a '59 Gillette Fatboy on the highest setting and I would need three passes and didn't get anywhere as smooth as the 34C.

 

[stinky87]

With a single rigid blade edge, you want to keep a light touch. The more pressure you apply the deeper the stubble is cut beneath the skin. The problem with the 34C and razor designs like it and coarse stubble, the blade will flex and not cut stubble cleanly. Multi blade carts pull and cut and then the stubble retracts beneath the skin.

Your technique is probably fine, the problem maybe the razor.

What do you recommend then as an alternative? Interesting about the blade flex...

 

[honeybadger79]

Maybe throw a few shims in there. I have tough wiskers too, so I hear ya.

Or Maybe try another razor. I think the Gillette NEW (short comb version) will cut very close and be very mild/forgiving if you use a light touch.

Or

Try a Mercur 37C slant bar. It's what I use when i have several days of growth. If used like the 34C, it cuts through very easily. It requires no special training. Just forget it's a slant and shave. Just dont do any tricks with it like the gillette slide and you'll be fine. It is a very very efficient razor.

 

[rabidus]

I mostly use vintage. A postwar Tech and 48-50 Aristocrat are top razors for me.

On the mild side, the Razorock DE1 is very capable with a sharp blade, but milder than my Tech and Crat.


The Timeless razor has a rigid design. I haven't tried one but many are raving about it and is one I would buy.

The Colonial General SE is excellent razor. Not a lot of blade choices with SE razors though. I prefer the Kai Titan Mild blades. Many have compared the General with the more expensive ATT SE1.

The Fatip piccolo has excellent rigidity and was too aggressive for me and I've moved away from open comb razors.

I recommend trying a shim first and then going from there! A shim doesn't cost anything and will stiffen things up.

 

[fasa]

How about a slant? 37c ?


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[mozartman]

With a single rigid blade edge, you want to keep a light touch. The more pressure you apply the deeper the stubble is cut beneath the skin. The problem with the 34C and razor designs like it and coarse stubble, the blade will flex and not cut stubble cleanly. Multi blade carts pull and cut and then the stubble retracts beneath the skin.

Your technique is probably fine, the problem maybe the razor.

I use the 34C and for me there is no doubt that increasing the pressure of the razor against the face is always a bad idea. It never results in a closer shave, but only increases the chance of irritation and bleeding.

 

[rabidus]

I use the 34C and for me there is no doubt that increasing the pressure of the razor against the face is always a bad idea. It never results in a closer shave, but only increases the chance of irritation and bleeding.

Yep, pressure is a bad idea! I left out that pressure cuts the stubble a little deeper, which can cause ingrown hairs... some people can probably stand some pressure though, not me.

 

[BigJ]

First, the 34C is a terrific razor IMO. For me mild/moderate razors like the 34C are just the ticket. So take my opinion with a grain (or more) of salt. Based on your description, I suggest you consider a slant.

 

[stinky87]

First, the 34C is a terrific razor IMO. For me mild/moderate razors like the 34C are just the ticket. So take my opinion with a grain (or more) of salt. Based on your description, I suggest you consider a slant.

Is there a big difference in feel/shave between a slant and open comb?

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[BigJ]

Is there a big difference in feel/shave between a slant and open comb?

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I may not be the best person to ask as I prefer CC razors! For me these produce the best results, especially with a sharp, smooth blade.

That said, I have tried OC and slants and suggest that you really need to see what works best for you.

 

[BSAGuy]

Try a Gillette New.

 

[honeybadger79]

Is there a big difference in feel/shave between a slant and open comb?

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Yes. A slant doesnt necessarily need to be a ratchetting up of the aggresion. At least is the case for a 37C for me as compared to 34C. I would call it more efficient, however

 

[stinky87]

Yes. A slant doesnt necessarily need to be a ratchetting up of the aggresion. At least is the case for a 37C for me as compared to 34C. I would call it more efficient, however

Well said. Do you think the 37C is a good move or should I consider something like an iKon or Razorock?

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[Komboloi]

How about an Ikon Standard? Closed comb, and I find it to be nearly as aggressive as the Fatip Piccolo and more aggressive than the 34C HD but with a similar head profile. I have a stainless one with a DLC coating that I like a lot.

 

[HexChrome]

Get the slant 37C. It's great, especially if you already like the 34C.