What's new

Safety bar VS OC for longer stubble

Get an old Gillette New Long Comb. Maybe Gillette's best razor ever.
I looked at the 'bay, and have some questions about this razor:

What is an reasonable price? I know it depends on condition, so let's say average to very good.
What to look for, as far as condition?
Do the handles sometimes exhibit a split?
Why are the caps and handles copper?...worn plating?
Are the razors all copper and plated in gold?

I know, lotta questions, thanks.
 
I shave daily, otherwise I look like a bum! So take this with at least a grain of salt.

I have found little difference between OC and CC given similar razor geometry. Factors like how well the blade is clamped, blade gap, etc. are more important. But that’s my experience as a daily shaver.
 
The OC heads I have I use for longer stubble (3 to 4 days growth). They work better for me. I love the RR 68OC head as well as the Tatara Masamune OC head. They both cut thru the stubble better than their SB brothers. I just seem to enjoy OC more than SB in general. Other days with less growth I use either the RR Lupo 72 or Tatara Masamune (both SB options).
 
i use a Timeless Ti with .95 plates. if it's been 1 or 2 days since my last shave it's the scalloped bar. 3+ days is the OC and it does make a difference to my coarse grey beard.
I've decided on the same strategy. I'm going to try shaving every other day while I get used to wet shaving. Eventually, after I've used all of my razors at least a few times, I'm pretty sure I'll add an open comb or two for those times when I do wait 3 or 4 days.
 
I don't think I've used a closed comb for more than 4 days growth, but I've taken anywhere from 2 1/2 to 4 week's worth off with a Lather Catcher, Gillette Old Type and or a straight. It's surprising how easily an OC Gillette OT (even with a vintage carbon blade) will mow through a quarter inch or more worth of growth (hot knife through butter), and a Gillette New Improved or Short Comb New work well too. If I took a week off from shaving (and work) and woke up late for work the first day back, I'd reach for an Old Type, and one pass later be out the door. Definitely a "break glass in case of emergency razor." If I had time, I'd definitely use a straight and enjoy the shave.
 
I looked at the 'bay, and have some questions about this razor:

What is an reasonable price? I know it depends on condition, so let's say average to very good.
What to look for, as far as condition?
Do the handles sometimes exhibit a split?
Why are the caps and handles copper?...worn plating?
Are the razors all copper and plated in gold?

I know, lotta questions, thanks.
- As far as the 'bay, a lot of that depends on shipping cost, but in the wild I've paid anywhere from $5 to $20 by themselves and of course condition and cases, etc. drive cost.
- what to look for, well, they're all brass construction. If they have any green corrosion, they will clean up fine, but the plating is gone in those areas, so look for those with good plating, but it's unnecessary because they look awesome in all brass (as long as you keep them polished). They did make them in nickel, but I haven't come across one in the wild; with most having a thin (and I do mean thin layer of gold plate). To save cost, they put a thin layer of gold plate then an lacquer coating that as it ages begins to take on a goldish orange appearance--when cleaning don't use more than dawn dish soap and a toothbrush as you can wear through the lacquer and the plate pretty quick. If you get one where the plating is gone, fear not, the caps are mostly a red brass color and the rest of the brass shines up nicely and fades to a nice patina. Barkeepers friend will remove all of the plating quickly, and there is no going back except to replate. If the cap has surface scratches, you can wet sand them with high grit sandpaper (1000+) and then polish them.
- I have an early LC New (looks orange due to the lacquer) that has the Old Type Ball end handle and yes, they usually do crack. I also have a red/black LC with a tuckaway style handle and it was cracked, but many of the NEWs have either the common bar handle (thin and thick) that do not suffer the same cracking issue.
- as to why Gillette used red brass for the heads and yellow brass for the bases and handles may relate to the red brass being harder/more resistant to scuffs, scrapes and wear than yellow, or maybe it took the thin gold plate better and lasted longer--I've yet to see a good reason given as to why.
- worn plating, it was the Depression, money was tight. I believe Gillette was doing what it could to minimize costs to itself and the consumer -- also with the "loss of the lawsuit" to the Auto Strop company founder (Gaisman) they were in a weak market position.
- No, not all of them were gold plated. While I've yet to see one, I've read that there are a few nickel plated ones out there (most were made in England), but most were in gold (as mentioned, I have a nickel plated thin common bar handle that was part of an Old Type Frankenrazor). The only NEWs I've seen in nickel are replates and for some reason they look oddly fake.
- Sorry for the book NLCT3.jpgLC NEW Box.jpgSuperFine Shave.jpg
 
- As far as the 'bay, a lot of that depends on shipping cost, but in the wild I've paid anywhere from $5 to $20 by themselves and of course condition and cases, etc. drive cost.
- what to look for, well, they're all brass construction. If they have any green corrosion, they will clean up fine, but the plating is gone in those areas, so look for those with good plating, but it's unnecessary because they look awesome in all brass (as long as you keep them polished). They did make them in nickel, but I haven't come across one in the wild; with most having a thin (and I do mean thin layer of gold plate). To save cost, they put a thin layer of gold plate then an lacquer coating that as it ages begins to take on a goldish orange appearance--when cleaning don't use more than dawn dish soap and a toothbrush as you can wear through the lacquer and the plate pretty quick. If you get one where the plating is gone, fear not, the caps are mostly a red brass color and the rest of the brass shines up nicely and fades to a nice patina. Barkeepers friend will remove all of the plating quickly, and there is no going back except to replate. If the cap has surface scratches, you can wet sand them with high grit sandpaper (1000+) and then polish them.
- I have an early LC New (looks orange due to the lacquer) that has the Old Type Ball end handle and yes, they usually do crack. I also have a red/black LC with a tuckaway style handle and it was cracked, but many of the NEWs have either the common bar handle (thin and thick) that do not suffer the same cracking issue.
- as to why Gillette used red brass for the heads and yellow brass for the bases and handles may relate to the red brass being harder/more resistant to scuffs, scrapes and wear than yellow, or maybe it took the thin gold plate better and lasted longer--I've yet to see a good reason given as to why.
- worn plating, it was the Depression, money was tight. I believe Gillette was doing what it could to minimize costs to itself and the consumer -- also with the "loss of the lawsuit" to the Auto Strop company founder (Gaisman) they were in a weak market position.
- No, not all of them were gold plated. While I've yet to see one, I've read that there are a few nickel plated ones out there (most were made in England), but most were in gold (as mentioned, I have a nickel plated thin common bar handle that was part of an Old Type Frankenrazor). The only NEWs I've seen in nickel are replates and for some reason they look oddly fake.
- Sorry for the bookView attachment 1427845View attachment 1427849View attachment 1427851
Sorry. No. Thank you for taking the time to type up an informative post.

Very much appreciated. 🙂
 
So, I picked up my first OC. Came with the clamshell box and brass blade box for under 20 bucks. Most of the gold wash was missing, so I did a clean and polish. Not sure if I'm brave enough to try it yet, but it will happen.
20220323_210523.jpg

20220323_210451.jpg
 
I'm not opposed to that and I shaved every day when my career required it (carts and electric), but now that I am retired I have no need or real desire to do so.

Additionally, being new to DE shaving, I am experiencing some minor irritation due to technique and have been giving my face at least one day between shaves to fully recover.

Understanding that my technique needs work, I am just wondering if an OC razor would be more comfortable - specifically for the times when I happen to wake up and realize I have a 3 or 4-day growth.
I don't consider an open comb to be more comfortable, but I use one if I'm removing a beard or goatee because the closed comb gets clogged too rapidly. I also have a 'bastard comb' - open one side, closed on the other. Good fun.
 
I have a Merkur open-comb, the 985C travel version, and a Fatip Piccolo. I think both of these are based on the traditional Old Type. The Merkur is milder. The Fatip is still easy to use though and the extra weight might help with coarse hair.

Either will easily shave my head no matter how long I've let my hair grow. They're almost as good as a straight in terms of effortlessly removing growth of any length.

A nice sharp blade like a Nacet probably helps.
 
And OC Part II.

This arrived today, 15 bucks on the auction site. Same treatment of a bath and then polish with a Cape Cod cloth.

It's a little "long in the tooth" compared to the other one, and I did have to do a minor orthodontic alignment on one of the ends. Still, very happy to have these old Gillettes. They're far from perfect, but I hope I look this good as I approach 100 years.
20220324_174827.jpg
20220324_175021.jpg
 
Nice looking Gillette New type, considering it's age. Cleaned up well.
Thanks.

I figured that the two should shave fine, and I've invested under $40 combined, so i get to try them without a major commitment. There are much nicer looking examples, but I kind of like the look of the old warriors.
 
For multiple days of stubble an open comb can get you an advantage over a SB. However, a more efficient SB razor can do the same. An adjustable razor might be an option to consider. Start aggressive and adjust down.
Artist club style open guarded blades is another option.
 
Top Bottom