Rusty Blade’s Wet Shaving Journey

[Rusty Blade]

Elitism. Only the wise buy the expensive soaps.

I've been using one of the melt and pour soaps that many say isn't fit for use as a shave soap since June I believe. You know the type, bath soap with clay in, only gives frothy bubbles, lather collapses, blah blah blah. I'm halfway through it, so roughly 100 shaves left on it. Zero cuts, minimal irritation, great shaves. Yes, it took a few shaves to get the right performance from it, but I didn't do two shaves with it and give up. I didn't use it once a month in and amongst 30 other soaps, and expect to get the mix right straight away.

I think Mitchell's is probably not classed as entry level because it's difficult to lather. It was my first soap, took me a few shaves to figure it out, then I got several hundred great shaves from it.

Too much expectation of products (not just soap) to work first time, and too much blaming of products that they haven't learned to use yet. Traditional shaving in an age of instant gratification. Too much YouTube, not enough practice

True. I guess I've been lucky. Every soap or cream I try I seem to get an excellent lather. I guess my 40 years of training using only Williams prepared me well. I like some of the "entry level soaps"...I get a great shave at a great price. I think much of this wet-shaving endeavour boils down to YMMV.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #6: One of the reasons I got hooked on traditional wet shaving is because I enjoy everything and anything old school. The idea of shaving like my father or grandfather was very appealing to me. Lathering a soap puck with a brush and shaving with a razor that was 50 or 100 years old has been enjoyable. I often wonder who owned the razor before I picked it up in an antique store. Each one has a history. I am privileged to own my father's Gillette Executive razor. (I know the history of this one).

While I have always used a brush and soap in a mug since I started shaving 45 years ago, only in the past few years have I started using DE, SE and SRs. I have two modern DE razors, one of which lately has become my daily razor (Fendrihan DE) and a Merkur 23c. It's the long handle and the heft of these two razors that I like. But the other 100+ DE and SE razors are antiques. My SR collection sits at around 100 razors, each one lovingly restored and honed by yours truly.

The collecting aspect of this hobby has really appealed to me. I may be a minimalist with my software, but I am a collector when it comes to my hardware, in particular, razors. I view this aspect of my hobby as an important contribution to society. The collecting and preservation of razors is a way to insure our history is not forgotten. It keeps them restored and out of landfill for future generations to enjoy.

It's nice to see new straight razors being produced. At one time there used to be thousands of manufacturers who made straight razors. As the popularity of safety razors came into fashion the numbers of manufacturers dwindled to just a few. And now those numbers are creeping up again as straights become more popular. Nice to see them come into fashion again. Same with DE and SE razors. Lots of upstarts entering the marketplace with new products. And I think that's just wonderful. Someday future generations of wet shavers will be collecting these new razors in antique stores.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #7: I have always been a natural fiber kind of guy. I prefer cotton, linen or wool clothing to just about anything synthetic. And so it goes for brushes. For most of my shaving life I used drugstore quality boar brushes and I was quite content. Then a few years ago, when I hit shaving fantasy land and started ordering my shaving gear online, I tried badger brushes and while I found them a little floppy, I came to appreciate their unique quality. And of course what shave den is complete without a horse hair brush. They too have their own unique properties.

Then the forums were abuzz with talk of these new synthetic brushes. Now many years ago I remember a brief foray into nylon brushes that I really didn't enjoy, they just felt uncomfortable and unnatural. So, for the longest time I sat on the sidelines and thought to myself, "Synthetic brush? Nope, not for me." But the positive reviews kept being posted and one day I gave in and clicked "Purchase". I now own two synthetic brushes. I have come to realize they too have their own unique properties, and with certain soaps or creams I find myself reaching for a synth. I also like using synths in the depths of a humid summer because they dry so quickly and I don't like having my natural fiber brushes damp for a period of days before they dry. Still, if I had to pick only one brush to take to a desert island it would likely be an inexpensive boar brush...unless it was a particularly humid island, then I would take a synth.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #8: I tend to prefer unscented soaps and if I want a scent, then I get it from one of several ASBs. I tend to avoid AS products because the scents are too overpowering and I need some moisturizer for my dry skin, especially in winter.

One of my favourite ASBs is Hawkins and Brimble. This product has a wonderful spicy warm scent that is pleasant, but not overpowering. It has scent notes that remind me of Old Spice. As the weather gets colder I find myself drifting towards warmer scented products. As one would expect, it pairs well with my unscented soaps. And what I enjoy most is the moisturizing qualities and low scent profile. For me the scent strength is 4 out of 10. A winter ASB delight!

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #9: My post shave routine is pretty much resolved. I often go through it and then wonder if I put on my ASB. I do it without thinking. After my shave I rinse off any remaining soap, apply alum, rinse again, apply Lucky Tiger, savour the sensation, then apply an ASB...usually unscented...but sometimes I enjoy a bit of scent, so I reach for a scented ASB. Rarely do I use AS...I find the scent too strong and I need some moisturizer. Sometimes I skip the alum, but I have found its properties beneficial.

Now I see some YouTube shavers and they apply alum, Witch Hazel, an AS and then an ASB. That seems a bit much to me and I would worry about clashing scents. Lucky Tiger is the star of my post shave show. A product I will never be without. I should buy stocks in the company. Pure Witch Hazel is a close substitute.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #10: So, I have come to the conclusion that there is a slight but noticeable difference between the Gillette British Flare Tip Rocket and the Gillette Made in the USA Flare Tip Rocket. Now, I acknowledge this may be entirely in my head...but I seem to get a better shave with the British Flare Tip Rocket. The American Rocket is just a tad milder. Less irritation with the British Rocket. The British Rocket has a bit more heft. I should weigh them on a scale and see if this difference is real or just in my overactive imagination.

Also, while we are on the subject of blades, the one thing I don't like about the Gillette Silver Blue -- my hands down favourite -- is the tiny dabs of wax they put on the blade to hole the wrapper in place. It gums up my razors. Every time I have to switch a blade, I have to use my thumbnail to scrape off the wax. I mean really!

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #11. For most of my shaving life I shaved before I showered. Then a couple of years ago I started shaving after I showered. This was based on reading comments from forum members. It seems most guys shave after they shower. This is based on the idea that your beard is softened by the warm shower water, making for a better shave...and this is true, it does soften your beard. I have gone back and forth, but I recently came to the conclusion that I was right the first time. I get a better shave if I shave before I shower. For me, a bit of stiffness in my bristles makes for a cleaner shave...and believe it or not, a better lather. I think this is one of those YMMV things.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Random thought #11. For most of my shaving life I shaved before I showered. Then a couple of years ago I started shaving after I showered. This was based on reading comments from forum members. It seems most guys shave after they shower. This is based on the idea that your beard is softened by the warm shower water, making for a better shave...and this is true, it does soften your beard. I have gone back and forth, but I recently came to the conclusion that I was right the first time. I get a better shave if I shave before I shower. For me, a bit of stiffness in my bristles makes for a cleaner shave...and believe it or not, a better lather. I think this is one of those YMMV things.

I agree, but for a different reason.

The beard is not the only thing that the shower hydrates, and while I don't find the shower over hydrates the beard, as I find that does make cutting easier, it does over hydrate the skin, which makes that easier to cut too. A manual prep for want of a better term, gives me a better balance of hydrating the beard, without over hydrating the skin.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I agree, but for a different reason.

The beard is not the only thing that the shower hydrates, and while I don't find the shower over hydrates the beard, as I find that does make cutting easier, it does over hydrate the skin, which makes that easier to cut too. A manual prep for want of a better term, gives me a better balance of hydrating the beard, without over hydrating the skin.

Good point. Yes, I agree. I do find showering sometimes over hydrates my skin making it more prone to micro abrasions or weepers. Especially when using a straight razor.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

Good point. Yes, I agree. I do find showering sometimes over hydrates my skin making it more prone to micro abrasions or weepers. Especially when using a straight razor.

Over hydrating the skin can also lead to the skin plumping up, covering more of the hair shaft, and leading to premature stubble reveal as the skin returns to normal. I also find, but don't know the science behind why, that it can reduce the slickness of lather, and there's more chance of a judder on the razor. Although, this might be the skin flexing more with the cutting forces rather than friction between skin and razor. I do know that if I bath/shower first, I need to leave it 15-20 minutes before shaving for best results. That's my skin though. Others may feel differently.

 

[Tokyospike]

I have only ever shaved first, then showered. So while I have no experience with ‘over hydration,’ I do think my doing the shave-prep identically every time and having the whiskers a bit stiff both help get close, consistent shaves.

 

[Rusty Blade]

I think for me shaving with whiskers that are a bit stiff as opposed to overly softened is what seems to make the difference. There is a breed of shaver who does a cold water shave...and they swear by its ability to give a great shave. But, alas, when you live in the Great White North the idea of splashing cold water on your face in the middle of January is pure torture.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random Thought #12: One of my favourite Gillette razors is the Slim. I have used the Fat Boy, but I prefer the Slim because the head is not as cumbersome. For some time now I have had my eye on a Parker Variant, but the problem for me is that with adjustable razors once I find my "number" I never change it after that. For example, with my Slim I have it set on 5 and that is just about perfect for me and I will probably never change the setting. And that seems to defeat the purpose of an adjustable razor.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

I don't own any adjustables for that very reason. The only thing I want to be adjustable is me . That said, I can appreciate a razor that a user can fine tune to their own preferences, even if they never change it afterwards, and maybe some users will prefer different settings for different blades.

 

[Clay S]

I'm the same with my adjustable, a Slim. I do like that I purchased it though. I had just started shaving, so it allowed me to find what I liked in razors. A good reference point for comparison sakes. Though, since I like the Slim, I haven't wanted to purchase another razor

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #13: To follow the tradition of the many high rise buildings that omitted the 13th floor in their buildings, skipping from the 12th to the 14th floor, I too will skip the 13th random thought.

 

[Tokyospike]

Is a thing not a thing if you call it a non-thing?

 

[Rusty Blade]

Random thought #14: I really enjoy some of the great shaving creams on the market. Truefitt & Hill, GFT, TOBS are just a few of my favourites. Having said that, the one thing I miss when using a cream (I generally apply a small amount of cream directly to my face, or on the brush and then build a lather) is the motion of working a brush on a soap puck and loading my brush. This has to be one of life's little pleasures. 15 - 30 seconds of pure joy. As you can tell it doesn't take much to entertain me.

 

[Rusty Blade]

Is a thing not a thing if you call it a non-thing?

Truth is, I just couldn't think of a 13th random thought. I did, however, come up with a 14th one.

 

[Clay S]

Random Thought: Thinking "The 13th floor is omitted in most high rises" might be a non-shaving random thought.