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Rusty Blade’s Wet Shaving Journey

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Will do. Might be a while as I’ve got more shaving creams than I’ve bargained for and a scentless aftershave was recently purchased. But that’s the next soap and you’ll be the first alerted netizen.
 
I decided to order the Parker Variant and the Merkur Progress adjustable razors. I have been playing with my Gillette Adjustable razors (Executive, Slim, and Black Beauty) and have been enjoying the different settings. I know in a previous post I said the adjustable is a novelty feature -- good marketing -- and despite the fact that I end up on a #5 setting they are still very nice razors. And I was bored...and Amazon is just so easy to click "Complete Purchase". I know...I am a sucker. PT Barnum was right, "A sucker is born every minute".
 
Here is my shave kit for the coming week starting tomorrow:

Pre: Proraso white preshave cream
Razor: Gillette Slim
Blade: Astra SP
Brush: Assorted
Soap: Soap Commander Integrity
Post : Lucky Tiger, assorted ASBs
Moustache wax: Seppo
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A few items:

First, today I received my Merkur Progress adjustable razor. I have a fresh Gillette Silver Blue in it ready to go for tomorrow. My first impressions are generally favourable -- good heft, I like the length of the handle and feel of the razor generally. I admit, however, the adjustable numbers don't seem to follow a clear delineation. I installed the blade tightened it up a bit and then looked for #1...but the thing is, you can keep turning the handle -- there are no clicks or clear indications you are on the scale....it is all relative. You can turn to #1 and keep turning again until you are on #1 again...so where is the real and true #1. Or maybe the goal is to turn it tight to to #5 and then work down. Who knows...I will experiment tomorrow. Anyway....the proof is in the pudding as they say and a shave in the morning will tell the story.

Second, I also received in the mail my new Omega boar brush. Nothing fancy, I just wanted a new brush (yea, right like I needed a new brush) and I really like boar brushes. To break it in I did a couple of hand lathers with my Henri et Victoria Cognac and Cuban Cigars soap. Turns out there is not much boar scent to contend with, so that is a plus.

Third, it has been on my mind lately, as I make the shift to unscented products, that most soaps, artisan or larger production soaps are generally in the same ball park in terms of quality. Most are pretty good. Those that are not good don't last in the marketplace. So soap purchases are made for a tub of generic soap with a few drops of essentials oils or fragrances. For many wet-shavers who have 20, 30, 40 or more soaps have quite a large amount of soap. All those soap tubs put together would likely fill the same volume/space as a large tool kit. Don't get me wrong, I get it, I really do. Most guys buy soaps because they enjoy the fragrance, soaps quality seems to come second, or who knows, maybe first. As I noted above though, most soaps are generally of similar quality. And as I shift to unscented products it occurs to me that all you really need is one or two good unscented soaps and you have met the requirements for a good lather. Scent doesn't really play into the equation. No need for 20 or more soaps to get a good shave all in the name of some variety.

Fourth, in another post in General Shaving Discussion, I posted a thread "Ask your father". I was curious about two things:
1. How many passes did (your father) do for each shave?
2. How often did your father change his blade?

This all stems from reflecting on how shaving has changed from the time of my father (a depression era man who was a no-nonsense kind of guy). He had one razor (Gillette Executive), one soap, one brush and a drug store aftershave. He only did one pass. I am not even sure he would know what a pass was. He lathered up and shaved, did a bit of buffing on the tough spots, cleaned up and slapped on some aftershave and was done. This is a marked shift from the current 3 pass BBS shave that seems to have become the modern standard.

My recent quest is to try to get back to the essence of shaving and simplify. Hence my shift to unscented products. (btw...it feels good to PIF a dozen scented soaps). And hence my exploration of what shaving used to be, back in the day when my Dad would have been shaving. Cut the frills, get to the point. And as I experiment and refine my process I realize how much more enjoyable a simple shave can be. And unscented soaps are the first step in this process. Focus on the lather. If you want to smell pretty, let the aftershave do the heavy lifting. I will write more about this in the coming days. :pipe:
 
A few items:

First, today I received my Merkur Progress adjustable razor. I have a fresh Gillette Silver Blue in it ready to go for tomorrow. My first impressions are generally favourable -- good heft, I like the length of the handle and feel of the razor generally. I admit, however, the adjustable numbers don't seem to follow a clear delineation. I installed the blade tightened it up a bit and then looked for #1...but the thing is, you can keep turning the handle -- there are no clicks or clear indications you are on the scale....it is all relative. You can turn to #1 and keep turning again until you are on #1 again...so where is the real and true #1. Or maybe the goal is to turn it tight to to #5 and then work down. Who knows...I will experiment tomorrow. Anyway....the proof is in the pudding as they say and a shave in the morning will tell the story.

Nice razor! Indeed, with the Progress it is all relative. My copy has its minimum at + and I adjust from there. Once, I loaded the blade and set the razor at 2.5 without turning it all the way down and then increasing to 2.5. Needless to say that it was at 2.5 plus a turn! I had no cuts but it was quite an experience, until I found out what was going wrong...

Happy shaves! :)
 
Ok...so...the Merkur Progress. Lets see, what can I say. This was my first shave with this razor so to be fair I would need a couple of weeks with this in the saddle to pass a fair assessment. The following are some initial thoughts.

I used a Gillette Silver Blue blade....good old reliable. The first thing I notice is when you insert the blade and lock it in there is an unusual feature with the plastic locking device. The locking device can make several full turns before it is fully tight. So it is hard to know where the relative "progress" adjustable feature begins and where it ends. So what I did was I turned it until it was fully tight, then eased back on the dial until it was at 4. The scale is between + 1 and 5. To me this is not the best engineering. It would seem to me that something more definitive would be more appropriate. For example the Gillette adjustable razors start on 1 and end on 9. There is no dickering about this...because there is no where else to go -- its 1 through 9. The Progress could be tightened for at least 2 and a half full turns before it is fully tight, so the adjustable feature could be used at any point along the way. Not the best and most endearing feature of this razor. I don't mind that there is no definite click of the specific numbers (its a sliding scale), but I would like to know when the adjustable feature begins and ends. The way I loaded and locked seems to work fine and I will continue to do it this way. I pity the newbie who puts in a blade makes one full turn of the locking device and then sets it on 1 or 2 --- bloodshed for sure. And by the way, no instructions in the package.

The handle was a bit slippery, so I had to be mindful of drying my hands as I used the razor. The fluting of the handle doesn't provide much grip.

I will say, however, that the #4 setting (based on the way I found the adjustable numbers) provided a clean smooth shave. I like the balance and heft of the razor. Good audio feedback. The head of the razor seems disproportionate to the rest of the razor -- in other words, its top heavy.

I will continue to use this razor until my Parker Variant arrives and then alternate between the two for a few weeks.
I will hold off until I pass final judgement. :pipe:
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Ok...so...the Merkur Progress. Lets see, what can I say. This was my first shave with this razor so to be fair I would need a couple of weeks with this in the saddle to pass a fair assessment. The following are some initial thoughts.

I used a Gillette Silver Blue blade....good old reliable. The first thing I notice is when you insert the blade and lock it in there is an unusual feature with the plastic locking device. The locking device can make several full turns before it is fully tight. So it is hard to know where the relative "progress" adjustable feature begins and where it ends. So what I did was I turned it until it was fully tight, then eased back on the dial until it was at 4. The scale is between + 1 and 5. To me this is not the best engineering. It would seem to me that something more definitive would be more appropriate. For example the Gillette adjustable razors start on 1 and end on 9. There is no dickering about this...because there is no where else to go -- its 1 through 9. The Progress could be tightened for at least 2 and a half full turns before it is fully tight, so the adjustable feature could be used at any point along the way. Not the best and most endearing feature of this razor. I don't mind that there is no definite click of the specific numbers (its a sliding scale), but I would like to know when the adjustable feature begins and ends. The way I loaded and locked seems to work fine and I will continue to do it this way. I pity the newbie who puts in a blade makes one full turn of the locking device and then sets it on 1 or 2 --- bloodshed for sure. And by the way, no instructions in the package.

I will say, however, that the #4 setting (based on the way I found the adjustable numbers) provided a clean smooth shave. I like the balance and heft of the razor. The head of the razor seems disproportionate to the rest of the razor -- in other words, its top heavy.

I will continue to use this razor until my Parker Variant arrives and then alternate between the two for a few weeks.
I will hold off until I pass final judgement. :pipe:
View attachment 1120207

The proper way to load the Progress is indeed to fully tighten the razor then adjust from there. I don't mind the absence of click settings , a 4 setting is still a 4 setting regardless of clicks or where the fully tightened starting point is. And if you like a mid setting like 4.5 you can do that. Gillette is Apple to Merkur's Android and I'm an Android guy.

Sent from my LG-US998 using Tapatalk
 
I am not prone to paranoia but I am beginning to suspect a conspiracy. I have gone to great lengths in the last year to reduce the number of soaps and creams in my closet. This includes some serious PIFs and giveaways to friends, sending some to the shower and restraints in terms of buying new soaps. My recent decision to shift towards unscented soaps has helped me along the way.

But yesterday I took out all my shoeboxes and did head count and I still have 23 soaps and creams. And in the past few weeks alone I PIFd around 15 scented soaps. Twenty three soaps I estimate will take me more than 5 years to use (MdC, PdP...need i say more). I am beginning to suspect that someone has been restocking my soaps while I am not looking. I am going to set up a couple of my hunting cameras in my closet. Maybe I can catch the culprit(s) red handed.
 
For those of you who follow me you know that I like to cycle through a variety of brushes -- boar, horse, synth, and badger. But lately I find myself reaching for my boars more than the others. I know the big advances that have been made with synthetic brushes, but the feel still feels unnatural. And I know badgers and horse brushes are good old reliable type brushes, most people preferring badger more than horse.

But the boar brush was part of my daily shaving routine for the first 45 years of my shaving life and I now know why. A solid performer, inexpensive and a consistently good lather. And best of all it is a natural fiber. One brush used exclusively can last for years. I can work a great lather from all my brushes or any type, but the 6 boar brushes I now own could last me the rest of my life. I may consider starting a cull of the others.
 
For those of you who follow me you know that I like to cycle through a variety of brushes -- boar, horse, synth, and badger. But lately I find myself reaching for my boars more than the others. I know the big advances that have been made with synthetic brushes, but the feel still feels unnatural. And I know badgers and horse brushes are good old reliable type brushes, most people preferring badger more than horse.

But the boar brush was part of my daily shaving routine for the first 45 years of my shaving life and I now know why. A solid performer, inexpensive and a consistently good lather. And best of all it is a natural fiber. One brush used exclusively can last for years. I can work a great lather from all my brushes or any type, but the 6 boar brushes I now own could last me the rest of my life. I may consider starting a cull of the others.

Brushes are a huge addiction. At least for me, that's true. We are lucky that we have so many brushes available to us and that we can afford to own multiple ones.

Boar brushes are my preference despite the fact that they tend to consume more product. I decided lately that it makes little sense to enjoy my shaves less in order to gain a few mg of soap per shave. Hence, I have packed everything else and rotate between my boars.

Unfortunately, I have no horse brushes. All the reports about them being prickly were enough to deter me from giving them a try.
 
Here is my shave kit for the coming week starting Sunday.

Pre: Proraso white preshave
Razor: Parker Variant/Tiger blade
Brush: Assorted boar
Soap: Soap Commander Integrity
Post: Lucky Tiger, Hawkins & Brimble ASB
Moustache wax: Badger

My Parker Variant arrived yesterday so this week I will do a comparison with the Merkur Progress. Already I prefer the grip and feel of the Variant. Let's see how the week goes.
20200710_203209_resized.jpg
 
Here is my shave kit for the coming week starting Sunday.

Pre: Proraso white preshave
Razor: Parker Variant/Tiger blade
Brush: Assorted boar
Soap: Soap Commander Integrity
Post: Lucky Tiger, Hawkins & Brimble ASB
Moustache wax: Badger

My Parker Variant arrived yesterday so this week I will do a comparison with the Merkur Progress. Already I prefer the grip and feel of the Variant. Let's see how the week goes.
View attachment 1124243
Very excited to hear your thoughts! The variant was my second DE, and I have been thinking of pairing it with Tiger blades. Wonder what number you’ll use on it 🤔

I wanted to get the silver one like this, but only was able to get the graphite one.

BEAUTIFUL BRUSH btw :thumbsup:
 
Very excited to hear your thoughts! The variant was my second DE, and I have been thinking of pairing it with Tiger blades. Wonder what number you’ll use on it 🤔

I wanted to get the silver one like this, but only was able to get the graphite one.

BEAUTIFUL BRUSH btw :thumbsup:
The Parker Variant is turning out to be a very nice shaver. Paired with a Tiger blade it is an absolute delight. I have mine set on 4.5 and it is just right for my face. I will write a more detailed review later this week.

The Semogue boar brush is one of my favourite brushes. Just the right amount of backbone.
 
Here is my review of the Merkur Progress and the Parker Variant: I've used both for about a week now. Both with a Tiger blade. I have used them with settings of 3, 4, and 4.5. The 4.5 gives a nice close shave...aggressive, but smooth.

The both have identical heads. The Progress has a smooth fluted handle while the Variant has a handle with more grip. I prefer the grip of the Variant. The Variant has a slightly longer handle and it has more heft making it feel more balanced than then Progress. The plastic turn nob of the Progress feels more flimsy than the Variant turn nob which is metal.
Overall, my preference is definitely the Parker Variant. :pipe:
 
Here is my shave kit for the coming week:

I am determined to find the bottom of the Soap Commander Integrity shave soap. I've been working at this for what seems like months now....to no avail. It is a wonderful soap, so I don't mind the journey but I am beginning to think the last half inch is impregnated with kryptonite. The brushes I have been using are my big bruisers with strong backbones and a good 45 seconds of loading or until my wrist is sore. I tend to generate enough lather for 6 passes for half the guys on my street. Its been months and still no bottom in sight. And I have been working that puck like it owes me money, like I hate it, like it stole my first born and still nothing. While I may lose the daily battle, I will not lose the war!!!

I asked someone on the 3017 thread how long it usually takes to 3017 a tub of Soap Commander and they said two months. I must be doing something wrong. I am beginning to doubt myself.

My razor is going to be the EJ 3one6 with a Feather blade.

My post shave will be the Barrister and Mann Soft Heart Series unscented AS splash. Always a treat on hot days. :pipe:
 
The following is a follow-up to my post in the General Shaving Discussion called, "Ask your father...".

Thanks for all your responses. My father, like many of his contemporaries, growing up in the Depression era and post-Depression era had a different set of priorities. I have come to the conclusion that my father's shave -- one pass with a bit of buffing, slap on some AS and get on with the day was very much a product of the times. They were rebuilding an economy, struggling to survive after the depression and during the war years. There were things to be done -- like provide for a family and struggle to make ends meet. The focus was on survival and working hard. A soap puck, razor blades and brushes were used to the end of their useful life -- with no waste. And often availability of a plethora of shaving products was limited.

Compare this to today, we have money and leisure time. Considerably more than our fathers by comparison. Incomes are higher and an information and service based economy changes the focus of work. This leads to the large collections of soaps -- many more than can often be used in a lifetime, and blades and razors are plentiful by choice. And the epitome of the modern age is reflected in the leisure time to do a 3 pass shave.

So, to conclude, everything in life has to be examined in its proper context. The shaves of our depression and war era fathers was practical, no nonsense and without waste of product or time, The shaves of today, again are characterized by more leisure time, and more money, more availability of products...and perhaps more time to spend on self than on others...and of course the 3 pass shave. :pipe:
 
Here is my shave kit for the coming week starting tomorrow:

Pre: Proraso white preshave cream
Razor: EJ 3one6 / Derby
Brush: Assorted
Soap: SC Integrity
Post: B&M Soft Heart Series Unscented AS -- A great summer splash.
Wax: Seppo Stache Wax

Another week has gone by and another week of still not seeing any signs of the bottom of this soap. If I don't see a glimmer of hope by the end of this week I am going to take a break from this soap and switch to a new soap for a bit...getting antsy for a change! MY wrist is getting sore from beating this soap with a brush!
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Finally reached the bottom of my Soap Commander Integrity soap. This was a really nice product and the lather was outstanding. I am now experimenting with a few different soaps in my vault of soaps and creams. This morning I used some RazorRock Santa Maria del Fiora Firenza. I am generally not a big fan of scented soaps but there is something about this one that is really nice. I think its the eucalyptus. It has a sweet smokey scent....and I seem to tolerate it well enough.

I have been getting great shaves lately. Nothing fancy, just good clean shaves. My pre-shave and post shave products seem to be doing the trick and my razors and blade choices have been easy on my skin. Its a good place to be. :pipe:
 
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