Rust is reappearing after many rust-removing processes

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Now, you can spot treat areas, like pin holes or pits you are going to leave with Evaprorust and a fine artist brush. I also like Rust oleum Rust Reformer. It converts rust to a flat black hard surface.

Do not work out of the bottle, pour a small amount into a plastic sample cup and dip a toothpick into the liquid and on to the surface you want to treat. If you work out of the bottle, you will contaminate the whole bottle.

You can sand over it and the converter will remain in the deep spots, works well on rusty pivots, let it dry well.

 

[Halfblade]

I have a razor that had a little rust and pitting, but it wasn't bad. There was however rust in the pinhole that I wasn't able to sand out, and the pinhole itself if huge and looks like it has been drilled from both sides, each hole a little off.

I've tried different methods to remove the rust in the pinhole: sandpaper on an awl, rust removing liquid, baking powder and vinegar-aluminum foil rubbing without much success. Today I did some electrolysis (with the same baking powder / baking soda) with some success, and finished it off with a soak in vinegar and baking powder followed by steel wool rubbing.

Now it doesn't look very bad, most rust is gone, and I continue to sand the razor to scratches from prevous sanding. Dry the razor with paper and dip it in alcohol.

The problem I'm having after all of this is that the razor immediately starts turning orange - especially in the shank text and pitting. What can I do to keep it rust free?

After using acids on it, the surface has been activated. Pitting areas may also contain small amounts of ferric chloride.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

“the pinhole itself is huge and looks like it has been drilled from both sides, each hole a little off.

Pivots were punched not drilled. Most are larger than the pins but still work well if pined tight. You can shim the pivot with brass tube, rod of fill with epoxy and re drill, but most work just fine as is.

 

[Thetyr]

I've sanded a bit and put rust converter on today. Looking better already! Interesting about the punched pin holes. Looks like someone missed the first try

I should get a drill press and fix this properly , but I'll try with just some copper washers first.

 

[global_dev]

Those scales aren’t causing any cell rot.

 

[Gamma]

Not cell rot.
Just keep it simple.
Stop using steel wool, no need at this stage, or ever really. The bits of steel it creates get in the air and can make stuff on the other side of the room rust.
Oil the blade wnen done at each step.
Hand sand - electrolysis creates a surface prone to rusting. Or use electrolysis, but then oil the blade and sand it wet with oil until it's smooth.
Keep it simple.
Personally, I'd just hand-sand it.
Keep it simple.
Alcohol will clear moisture off the steel but ambient moisture will go right back into the crevices. Better to use an oil that displaces water, like mineral oil.
Keep it simple.

 

[Thetyr]

Not cell rot.
Just keep it simple.
Stop using steel wool, no need at this stage, or ever really. The bits of steel it creates get in the air and can make stuff on the other side of the room rust.
Oil the blade wnen done at each step.
Hand sand - electrolysis creates a surface prone to rusting. Or use electrolysis, but then oil the blade and sand it wet with oil until it's smooth.
Keep it simple.
Personally, I'd just hand-sand it.
Keep it simple.
Alcohol will clear moisture off the steel but ambient moisture will go right back into the crevices. Better to use an oil that displaces water, like mineral oil.
Keep it simple.

Thanks for the tips!

I stopped using oil when I got Renaissance Wax, but I noticed now on this project that it is difficult to remove and gets quite sticky under the sandpaper.

 

[duke762]

I stopped using oil when I got Renaissance Wax, but I noticed now on this project that it is difficult to remove and gets quite sticky under the sandpaper.

I just got some RenWax and haven't tried it on anything yet. I'm really interested in what's going here, both with the rust problem and the RenWax. I would guess that the RenWax may have caused your sandpaper to load up prematurely. Try wet/dry with WD40.....just a drop. I've found WD will remove the git from the bargain brands but works great with 3M paper. WD may act as a solvent to help remove the wax.

 

[rbscebu]

Thanks for the tips!

I stopped using oil when I got Renaissance Wax, but I noticed now on this project that it is difficult to remove and gets quite sticky under the sandpaper.

Renaissance wax is applied and then should be fully buffed. If that is done, there should be no stickiness under the sandpaper. I dare say that you may not fully buffing it prior to sanding.

That being said, I do not understand why you are applying Renaissance wax inbetween sanding sessions. Renaissance wax is normally only used after you have completed your restoration work on a blade.

 

[Thetyr]

Renaissance wax is applied and then should be fully buffed. If that is done, there should be no stickiness under the sandpaper. I dare say that you may not fully buffing it prior to sanding.

That being said, I do not understand why you are applying Renaissance wax inbetween sanding sessions. Renaissance wax is normally only used after you have completed your restoration work on a blade.

No buffing, I just smear it on. I just put it on to prevent this quick rust to form, but it seems to be under control now.

 

[Thetyr]

I just got some RenWax and haven't tried it on anything yet. I'm really interested in what's going here, both with the rust problem and the RenWax. I would guess that the RenWax may have caused your sandpaper to load up prematurely. Try wet/dry with WD40.....just a drop. I've found WD will remove the git from the bargain brands but works great with 3M paper. WD may act as a solvent to help remove the wax.

i used acetone and that removed the wax quite well. From Gammas tips I remembered that I still have mineral oil so I'm using that now untill this blade is done.

 

[Shaving like a boss]

Clean it up with emery cloth, polish it with jewelers rouge then use a cold gun bluing. That will protect the metal. If you are trying to make it sliver, then I would suggest a nickel electroplate.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Using oil over Ren wax will have no affect, the steel is sealed by the wax. You should use Renwax as a final protective coat after the surface is perfected, or you will seal in all imperfect surfaces, rust included. It should be buffed off and not allowed to dry on thick.

Scrubbing with Mineral Spirits is recommended for complete removal of the wax, Acetone is more aggressive. Any oil will protect the steel from rust even WD40 and can easily be removed if further finishing is required.

There is a lot of pitting on that steel and will take a lot of sanding to remove it all, on the tang, the spine should come clean easily. Start with 600 wet and dry and that will show you how much more work is needed and if more aggressive paper is needed. Use a backer, I like synthetic wine corks wrapped with W&D paper cut to 3 inch squares.

Scales are horn and in need of hydration, soak in Neetsfoot oil in a Zip Loc bag for a couple days, mineral oil will work. Then sand with 600 and 1k paper, polish with any good metal polish to a high gloss. Horn dust, from sanding and CA glue can repair any cracks or imperfections.

While horn will not produce Cell rot, if the razor was stored in proximity of celluloid that is off gassing, the steel could have been contaminated. I have seen entire glass cases in Antique stores affected by a single razor.

 

[ctr]

Use a decent quality gun oil or non synthetic engine oil. Soak it. Do not use WD40. The major ingredient in WD40 is water.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Use a decent quality gun oil or non synthetic engine oil. Soak it. Do not use WD40. The major ingredient in WD40 is water.

I don't think that's true. Wired did a gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy analysis of it a few years ago and it's basically mineral oil and a bunch of alkanes like decane, nonane, tridecane, undecane, etc. They're all very water repellent, which makes sense since WD-40 was designed as a water displacer, not a lubricant. I'm no chemist, but I don't know how you would get water to emulsify with a bunch of water repellent compounds.

Link

 

[ctr]

I don't think that's true. Wired did a gas chromatography and mass spectroscopy analysis of it a few years ago and it's basically mineral oil and a bunch of alkanes like decane, nonane, tridecane, undecane, etc. They're all very water repellent, which makes sense since WD-40 was designed as a water displacer, not a lubricant. I'm no chemist, but I don't know how you would get water to emulsify with a bunch of water repellent compounds.

Link

Less than 35% oil. Look up the material safety data sheets. Compare it with high quality oils.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Less than 35% oil. Look up the material safety data sheets. Compare it with high quality oils.

You said the major ingredient was water.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Here are the ingredients from the WD-40 SDS:

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

I use it all the time to prevent flash rust after vinegar cleaning on cast iron and steel, (antique tools), razors and knives. It is not long term rust prevention, but no question it prevents flash rust, readily available, cheap, and easy to apply in a spray can or pump bottle.

It is also great for cleaning greasy, swarf coated, old stone holder wooden boxes. I buy it by the gallon.

 

[hydro-magic]

I've seen at least a few rust tests where WD-40 did a surprisingly good job of preventing rust. If it's what I had on hand, I wouldn't hesitate to use it.