Ruh Khus (Wild Vetiver Oil)

[The Chandos]

This topic came up in the SOTD thread and I thought it would be more appropriate to have a thread of its own. Rather than discussing the fine particulars of vetiver EOs and ruh khus where it would get lost in thousands of SOTDs, I wanted to just extract my last post and put it here to jump start a conversation about vetiver oils and where to get them. This may sound a bit in media res but I think my last post makes a good starting point:

From what I understand, khus is simply vetiver, and yes, khus oils are ubiquitous. Ruh, however, means something like 'spirit,' and ruh khus is also called 'oil of tranquility.' Thus, like many of the incense sticks I've seen that have an extra word denoting a higher quality, ruh khus would be a higher grade of vetiver oil. Whether that means it's hydro distilled in copper kettles, I don't know. I've read that ruh khus is also supposed to be distilled in the wild so that there is nothing lost of the 'spirit' between harvesting and distillation. But I haven't spent much time digging around. Ultimately, to answer your question, I think, Yes.

Also, I have no idea where these samples of ruh khus came from. Sorry, they are just some random samples that got passed along to me. However, there are myriad ruh khus sources online. I just don't have any feel for what's good and what's not. Perhaps an authority on these will come up. Perhaps we should start a new thread specifically to discuss grades of vetiver and sources for good quality oils?

EDIT: A bit of internet exploration turned up "ruh" to mean "wild," in that ruh khus is cultivated and distilled in the wild. Ruh also means spirit, but I don't know if they're related - that would be conjecture on my part although it sound pretty good. There is a very good read on it at the Perfume Shrine.

Edit #2: According to this extremely informative read from Chris McMahon of White Lotus Aromatics in WA, there is a difference not only in the cultivation of vetivers by region, but also distillation processes. Khus refers not only to wild harvested vetiver in India but also to the process in which it is captured. Ruh denotes a higher quality, the distillation process being a little more involved, and can be taken to mean something along the lines of "pure" if you compare it to the standard process used for khus. Both Khus and Ruh Khus are hydro-distilled (as opposed to steam distillation or other methods). So, Ruh = 'pure' = 'spirit' = higher quality. If you look at the prices for the various vetiver EOs from White Lotus, you'll see there are several in the $10-$20/ounce range while the price of Ruh Khus jumps to nearly $80/ounce.

 

[maw808]

Aloha! I love this thread. I farm Vetiver, and became involved in its environmental applications well after I had become completely besotted by its fragrance. Reasonable people will disagree endlessly, but I believe that only the nose knows the difference among Vetiver EOs. In order of purported superiority, Vetiver from Madagascar/Reunion/Bourbon Islands--all the same location--is reputed to be the finest, followed by that from Haiti, India, Indonesia, and China. Bourbon Vetiver is found in Encre Noir (Lalique), Hermes, and the later formulation of Jacque Polge's Sycomore (much to my dismay, Polge switched early from Haitian Vetiver--his first, and my personal favorite--to bourbon. Blech!) Indians--Lavania, et al--tout their Vetiver EO as the world's finest, but I believe they've overrated India's Vetiver product. Again, to each his/her own. And, as to its fragrance? I believe that the character of the oil has as much to do with soil conditions as it does the distillation practices that create it. Given Vetiver's dense, fibrous root system, it takes high temperature and extended time to extract its essential oil. The danger of burning the oil is ever present. In Indonesia, for example, a lot of distillation occurs in the fields of individual farmers; consequently a lot of the oil bears a characteristic burnt smell. That's the reason that Indonesian Vetiver EO typically ranks low--it smells like the contents of a spittoon. Vetiver from Haiti, on the other hand, is full-bodied, with a fresher innate fragrance. Remember, too, hydrosols are the water from which the EO has been extracted. It's a "value-added" by-product, and IMO does not deserve its exalted position as "better/purer, etc" product than the essential oil. But for the artificial market, this product would be discarded. Just my opinion. Mary A. Wilkowski, Vetiver Systems Hawaii

 

[The Chandos]

Mary, thanks for your insight and your input. I imagine that the cultivation processes in Haiti and Indonesia and elsewhere are one of the reasons the prices are lower than the Indian Ruh Khus. Dragging all that equipment into wild areas and setting up a distillation process in the wild has got to be difficult and half of the reasons it's so much more expensive. I imagine also that the supply for such traditionally made vetiver oils are limited for the demand while a farming and onsite distillation process can churn out consistently good and ample product. Of course the law of B&B is present here as always - YMMV - so I imagine there are folks that would disagree with you and say that the reputation of Bourbon vetiver is well-deserved. I haven't yet had an opportunity to sit down and try any side by side and as someone mentioned on the SOTD thread there's likely to be good and bad Haitian vetiver just as there's likely to be good and bad Bourbon and/or Indian. From my experiences, however, which is limited, both of the ruh khus I tried were far better than the three e.o.'s I have. Two don't provide any info besides a handwritten label saying "pure vetiver" and they are both thick and brown. The third however is Saje organic e.o. from Sri Lanka and costs $19 for 5mL. It too is brown and viscous. All three are very raw and earthy vetiver smells. The ruh khus I tried however had much brighter and more complex scent profiles. Apparently, I need to try some other vetiver e.o.'s. Perhaps you have some recommendations for sources? Are you distilling where you are in Hawaii? That would be interesting to have some US-based vetiver... Speaking of, how tolerant is it to high-clay soils? Can I grow it in my back yard? Do I even want to? Also, you may have to explain what a hydrosol is and why it's a by-product. Is it exclusive to hydro-distilled products? What other methods are there for obtaining the e.o.?

 

[The Chandos]

This topic came up in the SOTD thread and I thought it would be more appropriate to have a thread of its own.

Ah, well, I must have been wrong.

 

[erickson]

I may be more interested in exploring vetiver oils later in the year, but I am currently swimming in frags which I have not had time to wear. Will be wearing Spring Vetiver perfume oil later in the week. It is not straight vetiver, but is blended with citrus and floral notes.

p.s.
Vetiver is my signature scent...lol

 

[BillC]

Ah, well, I must have been wrong.

I'm glad you broke the thread out and I'm interested, unfortunately I have nothing to say, just listening

 

[Lamb Root]

I remember having a practical exercise in high school with extracting essential oils from a chamomile. We basically dumped some (a lot of) chamomile in water, and started to boil a chamomile tea. Vapors were cooled with Liebig condenser and the condensed liquid was collected in a glass jar. After some time a chamomile EO emerged at the surface of the condensate and the hydrosol (the mayor part of the distillate) remained down. I think in this case too a hydrosol should be a watery part if the distillate, a byproduct.

 

[Evbo]

I think in this case too a hydrosol should be a watery part if the distillate, a byproduct.

Based on everything I've written and on the hydrosols that I own, I believe you're correct. Hydrosols have also been referred to as "floral waters." They're a leftover product of the distillation process. The scent is very fleeting & doesn't stick around.

 

[Lamb Root]

Based on everything I've written and on the hydrosols that I own, I believe you're correct. Hydrosols have also been referred to as "floral waters." They're a leftover product of the distillation process. The scent is very fleeting & doesn't stick around.

On the other hand I've red that the Vetiver is used as the aroma fixative so in this case this fleeting water can be used as something that makes other fleeting notes last longer. It's a fleeting water with a catch. Or is it Vetiver EO that is used as a fixative?

 

[Evbo]

Or is it Vetiver EO that is used as a fixative?

It would be either an EO, tincture or concrete. A hydrosol would most definitely not be used as a fixative.

 

[The Chandos]

Well now I understand what the hydrosol is. Thanks, I appreciate the lesson.

One of my biggest questions, though, is where to find good essential oils? Who's tried any and can recommend good brands/sources? Trebor did a nice write up on the Single Note Exploration thread on Basenotes. She tried Aqua Oleum, Eden Botanicals, Ajmal, and White Lotus - and really liked the Aqua Oleum. I checked their website and they only offer a couple varieties - maybe that's all anyone needs? White Lotus has substantially more varieties but has a $100 minimum order. Does anyone have any other recommendations?

I also noticed that the vetiver essential oils offered through Eden Botanicals were all steam distilled and from what I've read hydrodistilled is very much preferred. Does anyone have any opinions on this matter?

 

[Evbo]

Well now I understand what the hydrosol is. Thanks, I appreciate the lesson.

One of my biggest questions, though, is where to find good essential oils? Who's tried any and can recommend good brands/sources? Trebor did a nice write up on the Single Note Exploration thread on Basenotes. She tried Aqua Oleum, Eden Botanicals, Ajmal, and White Lotus - and really liked the Aqua Oleum. I checked their website and they only offer a couple varieties - maybe that's all anyone needs? White Lotus has substantially more varieties but has a $100 minimum order. Does anyone have any other recommendations?

I also noticed that the vetiver essential oils offered through Eden Botanicals were all steam distilled and from what I've read hydrodistilled is very much preferred. Does anyone have any opinions on this matter?

Aqua Oleum's oils are generally very highly regarded. It's headed by Julia Lawless, who at one time was married to the late Alec Lawless, the nose behind Essentially Me. WLA's oils are also very highly regarded. You might also want to check out Primavera Oils. They're very high quality as well.

Ultimately, it's going to come down to your nose. I would check out both hydro & steam distillations if I were you, despite what you've read. You might decide you like the steam distillation better!

 

[The Chandos]

It sounds like I need myriad samples of both steam and hydro distilled from a variety of vendors and a couple of weeks (or more) to really explore them. Sigh, it's a tough job but someone has to do it!

 

[The Knize]

Great thread. Getting into EOs seems like stepping off a cliff though! Sort of like getting into ouds. I can feel the vortex sucking me in!

 

[The Chandos]

Great thread. Getting into EOs seems like stepping off a cliff though! Sort of like getting into ouds. I can feel the vortex sucking me in!

Not nearly as expensive, though. I'm finding some vetiver eo's at $10-$20/ounce depending on region with ruh khus going for $75/ounce. That's an ounce, mind you, and not 1/4 tola. It's considerably more affordable.

 

[Lamb Root]

You guys will end up buying gallons of lavender essential oil.

 

[The Chandos]

You guys will end up buying gallons of lavender essential oil.

Could be a topic for another thread, but have you already done this? Do you recommend it? How long does it last? What is the scent profile like?

 

[Lamb Root]

Could be a topic for another thread, but have you already done this? Do you recommend it? How long does it last? What is the scent profile like?

No I didn't. I find the smell of pure oil a bit repulsive believe it or not. A lavender fagot put in a room or a wardrobe - great. Few drops of lavender anywhere near me has a repellent effect. I don't know of any good sources but I will ask around.
For the profile, you got me there. Don't know anything about that. As far as I know people use vapor distillation for oil extraction over here.
I also red that pure lavender oil is not to be applied directly on the skin so...

Few regular sellers on the green market where I usually go hold lavender and immortelle oils but I never wanted to try or buy some.

Closest to the lavender EO sold on the market is Villoresi's Wild Lavender.

And now back to VETIVER...

 

[The Knize]

Not nearly as expensive, though. I'm finding some vetiver eo's at $10-$20/ounce depending on region with ruh khus going for $75/ounce. That's an ounce, mind you, and not 1/4 tola. It's considerably more affordable.

That's true. I guess I was thinking of the time and effort. Especially the time spent obsessing about such things. I am not saying that is necessarily bad. I am saying that I tend to get obsessed with such things.