- Thread starter
- #21
I agree, but for me this is a good razor for shaving.
Rolls Razor
- Thread starter Windigo
- Start date
It is a superb razor when honed properly. I honed 3 of them out of its mechanism and they are as good as any Sheffield SRs. I maintain the blade with pasted leather stropper within the mechanism.
I’m currently going through a Rolls Razor phase. For some strange reason I decided to get out my Imperial #2 after a long time ignoring it, and am trying again to shave with it again. So far my results are just OK. I’ve been tinkering more with the mechanism and parts in hopes of working out all of the bugs. I learned on another forum how to disassemble the FPA (friction pad assembly) and clean it, which I’ve done, as well as cleaning the internal components. When I first acquired the Rolls (it was my grandfather’s) I stupidly, by not doing enough research, cracked the hone by not storing the shaving handle properly and closing the lid. Fortunately the crack is across the middle of the hone. I was able to use CA glue to join the two halves back together with a good match of the break. After lapping the hone the break is nearly invisible. Also, anyone who has used a Rolls razor may have noticed that the blade travels only a very short distance in either direction on the hone (and strop) and essentially misses the middle portion of the hone (and the crack) as it’s flipping and changing direction. It’s also noteworthy that due to the nature of the friction assembly and pin, the blade should remain flat to the hone even if the angle of the hone is off by a small degree since the FPA allows the blade to self adjust. One thing I’ve noticed on mine is that the leather stop seems to be slightly convexed along its length. In other words, it is higher along the center. While stropping it appears that only the center of the blade is getting stropped. I’m wondering if anyone else has noticed something similar? And if so, is there a good fix? I’ve cleaned and dressed the leather, and even used Dovo red (the solid stuff that comes in a small box) since it seems to closely resemble the original Rolls stropping paste. But none of this seems to help flatten out the strop. There is some type of old adhesive material underneath the strop and I’m wondering if it should be removed.
I’m surprised that there isn’t a thread here on BB compiling all available information on maintaining, cleaning, and servicing the Rolls razor. Or if there is, I couldn’t find it. I know that there are spare parts occasionally available for sale such as hones, strops and FPA’s. Usually these come with instructions from the company. A collection of that information would be valuable. Also, I’m assuming that there must have been some sort of service manual available and used at Rolls service centers. It would be nice if one existed and could be found. But not holding my breath on that one. It would be nice if the friction pad could be reproduced since the function of the Rolls seems to greatly depend on that one little piece. Anyone know what it’s made of and how it could be manufactured at home?
There is something just fascinating about these razors, at least for now, until something else, like my Henkel's Rapide, grabs my attention.
I’m surprised that there isn’t a thread here on BB compiling all available information on maintaining, cleaning, and servicing the Rolls razor. Or if there is, I couldn’t find it. I know that there are spare parts occasionally available for sale such as hones, strops and FPA’s. Usually these come with instructions from the company. A collection of that information would be valuable. Also, I’m assuming that there must have been some sort of service manual available and used at Rolls service centers. It would be nice if one existed and could be found. But not holding my breath on that one. It would be nice if the friction pad could be reproduced since the function of the Rolls seems to greatly depend on that one little piece. Anyone know what it’s made of and how it could be manufactured at home?
There is something just fascinating about these razors, at least for now, until something else, like my Henkel's Rapide, grabs my attention.
- Thread starter
- #24
Video of my Ukrainian friend who lives in England. If you don’t know the language, then just look at its actions, how it repairs the skin.
So I found the BB Wiki on the Rolls. Very informative. But nothing regarding the original backing of the strop. I partially lifted up the strop a day ago to peek underneath and saw a whitish material that appeared to adhere to both the back of the strop and the inside of the lid. I left everything intact, but noticed later that during stropping a white gritty substance was getting deposited on the surface of the strop. I finally decided to completely remove the strop and found that the backing material had completely disintegrated into a crumbled powdery mess. This is what was leaking out from under the strop during stropping. I removed all of that material and cleaned the back of the strop and the inside of the lid. I theorized that the backing material, which I’m guessing was originally a softer substance, must have been placed there to act as a padding between the thin strop and the metal lid, and not just an adhesive to hold the strop in place. Over time it must have aged and deteriorated. So I decided to use a piece of thin nonslip shelving material that seemed to be about the same thickness as the original backing. It is also rubbery and should absorb some of the impact of the blade hitting the strop.
Will see if this possibly improves stropping.
Will see if this possibly improves stropping.
- Thread starter
- #26
Use some kind of paper, otherwise the sling will be lower by about 1 mm. You can use a thin piece of leather and shoe glue. In general, the strop can be purchased separately on eBay in new condition. They are in the best condition and ready to use.
The waffle shelving material is fairly thin. Not paper thin but close. I don’t think the original backing was paper thin. Regardless, if you consider the way the spindle/ friction assembly works, even a slight difference in thickness shouldn’t matter because the blade will be pushed flat against the strop and the spine of the blade will set the proper stropping angle. Also, paper wouldn’t provide any shock absorption which I suspect the original backing did. Do you disagree? And I’m unable to find any NOS Rolls strops on eBay, just whatever comes with used Rolls sets.
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- Thread starter
- #28
I agree with you, it is now on sale in Italy. It is forbidden to provide links, so I will provide a screenshot.
Well, I found the store on eBay, but no listing as you posted. Looks like it was sold.
- Thread starter
- #30
I answered in private messages
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