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Ridden hard and put up wet:

jar_

Too Fugly For Free.
How many of you have a favored old handgun, the one that's been well used and likely not as cared for as it deserved? Maybe you still have the holster that came with it?

Here's one of my examples.

The mid 1950s were still pretty gun friendly; most every Western Auto or Feed & Seed or Hardware store also sold guns and ammunition. There were still places even just outside the Big City where a kid could go hunting or plinking without anyone much objecting as long as you always closed and secured a gate if you went through and always asked permission before shooting on someone else's property. Also you needed to understand that farm animals were off limits even if it was just a chicken and if you broke anything you were expected to fix it without even being asked.

The most common guns were a single shot 22 rifle or maybe a single shot 410 shot gun but a 22 LR revolver was also pretty common. Holsters were utilitarian, often flapped leather or canvass surplus that originally would have held a lofty Smith & Wesson and not the Iver Johnson or Harrington & Richardson a kid was more likely to carry.

I was a full teenager now and so could be trusted with a handgun and for just over $20.00 I bought an almost new (1955) H&R Camper. It wasn't the blued 922 but rather the Nickle Coated shiny bright 923. The holster was the classic war (but not sure which war) surplus leather flap one that looked like a dog might have used it as a chew toy but it held the gun and kept it dry even when I got soaked in a summer shower.

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The 923 was a nine round 22LR double action revolver. Trigger pull was adult size and in single action crisp but stiff. To load you pulled out the pin and took the whole cylinder out but you could then use the pin to use the built in star ejector. The face of the cylinder was recessed and this was considered a real safety feature in the day.

The old gun is still pretty accurate and fun to shoot. It still gets to go out to Ranch Country to do some plinking on occasion but it no longer even threatens any living things.

So do any of you good folk have an old experienced gun?
 
Mine was an old late 1950's S&W model 49. A model 49 is the all steel small frame five shot .38 revolver. It has a shrouded hammer (The side of the frame almost covers the hammer, but you can still pull the the hammer back if you want.). The shroud keeps the trigger from snagging when pulling it out of your pocket. That pistol had been carried a lot- the bluing was just a memory. The wooden grips were horribly worn down. BUT, it locked up tight and the trigger was a dream. I put on some really small rubber grips on it and it felt like it was made for me. It was accurate (I could hit a 8"x8" metal plate almost every time at 50 yards and it would stack bullets on top of each other at 5 yds). It was my default pistol when carrying concealed with a coat. What happened you ask? Well, my daughter borrowed it for her "concealed carry" class and I haven't seen it since. My daughter keeps telling that she is going to return it, but she says it with a smile.
 
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Ad Astra

The Instigator
The H&R .22 revolvers were an excellent choice. Economical, though a bit funky. Sure that Camper still serves you well!

AA
 

jar_

Too Fugly For Free.
Mine was an old late 1950's S&W model 49. A model 49 is the all steel small frame five shot .38 revolver. It has a shrouded hammer (The side of the frame almost covers the hammer, but you can still pull the the hammer back if you want.). The shroud keeps the trigger from snagging when pulling it out of your pocket. That pistol had been carried a lot- the bluing was just a memory. The wooden grips were horribly worn down. BUT, it locked up tight and the trigger was a dream. I put on some really small rubber grips on it and it felt like it was made for me. It was accurate (I could hit a 8"x8" metal plate almost every time at 50 yards and it would stack bullets on top of each other at 5 yds). It was my default pistol when carrying concealed with a coat. What happened you ask? Well, my daughter borrowed it for her "concealed carry" class and I haven't seen it since. My daughter keeps telling that she is going to return it, but she says it with a smile.
I never got a humpback J frame for some reason but still mean to fix that omission one day. Here are the other two models of the small Smiths from that era; a pre-model numbers Chief Special and a Model 40 Centennial Lemon Squeezer.

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simon1

Self Ignored by Vista
Granddad's old High Standard Double Nine. He used to take me rabbit hunting with it when I was a kid. It now resides in my safe.

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shoelessjoe

"I took out a Chihuahua!"
Two old favorites ... certainly used, but fortunately, never abused or neglected

A Heer Spreewerk P38 (03/1944) bring-back...
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S&W Model of 1905 (1914) 3rd-change .32-20...
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I never got a humpback J frame for some reason but still mean to fix that omission one day. Here are the other two models of the small Smiths from that era; a pre-model numbers Chief Special and a Model 40 Centennial Lemon Squeezer.

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You have some treasures there. You might consider getting the trigger worked on for the Centennial. I have a friend that owns a late model stainless Centennial. He had a gunsmith smooth and lighten the trigger (paid about half the price of the pistol for the trigger work). It is a joy to shoot. He spent time working up a hand load for it. From a bench, it can do an honest five shot 1.5" group at 25yds. Really good for a double action.

I have always wondered about the lemon squeeze feature. Does it cause any problems?
 
Two old favorites ... certainly used, but fortunately, never abused or neglected

A Heer Spreewerk P38 (03/1944) bring-back...
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S&W Model of 1905 (1914) 3rd-change .32-20...
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You probably already know this, but until around WWI S&W did not heat treat the cylinders of their 1905s. So please shoot lead bullets (less friction, so less pressure). Also, lead bullets will greatly reduce the wear on the bore. From what I understand the pistol won't blow up, but parts will get stretched.

OBTW, I had some work done a 1905 made in the mid 1920s. The gunsmith left the side plate off until he could show me the inside of the action. The inside was completely jeweled, like a watch from the same period. Just imagine the kind of company and people that would make the inside that pretty, knowing that few would ever see the craftsmanship.
 

shoelessjoe

"I took out a Chihuahua!"
Thanks, fini ... I am aware of those pre 4th-change S&Ws & reload accordingly. I save the slightly warmer .32-20 rounds for an Army Special.

Those jeweled sideplates ... those were different people & most certainly different times, weren’t they? First thing I always do with a new-to-me firearm is to gut it & I just stared at that sideplate for a few minutes. I may have been the first person inside the 3rd-change since it left the factory.
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I guess I got really lucky because mine has most of the innards jeweled- not just the side plate. I would take pictures, but frankly I am scared to muck up the side plate screws to take it apart. Having said that, imagine the work to hand fit the parts and then to polish them up like the one you have.

In the alternative, I also have a S&W 1917 and it's inside looks really rough, but the action is smooth (probably by use). I am guessing that since it was built to get quickly to our boys in France, they cut every corner without impacting serviceability.
 

jar_

Too Fugly For Free.
I have always wondered about the lemon squeeze feature. Does it cause any problems?

No problems at all. Remember that Smith & Wesson used the same basic grip safety on their Safety Hammerless Top Break model from around 1887 right up to 1940. The Centennial was introduced of course in 1952 for S&W 100th Anniversary and adopted the same basic design but in the stronger "J" steel frame.

The one I have is from 1955 and is unusual because it also still has the User Safety Lock Pin that often got lost over the decades. Just as with modern locks, some users objected to the grip safety on the Centennial, even back to the Safety Hammerless era. So S&W provided a way to allow the user lock the grip safety.

If you take the grips off there are two additional holes in the frame and another in the grip safety itself. A tiny blued pin was stored in the lower hole but with both grips off could be pushed out. (and often lost) Then by depressing the grip safety to line up the upper frame holes and the hole in the grip safety the pin could be inserted. With the grips reinstalled the Grip Safety was locked in the "Live" or "Fire" position.

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About "trigger jobs" on my self defense handguns. Generally I like a long, heavy trigger on my pocket revolvers; they are not designed for "Bench Rest" or 25 yard bullseye shooting. I have other guns for that. My carry gun is meant for up close and very personal absolute last chance no other option situations. Sure, I can shoot out to considerable distances with them and the last few times I've shot a qualifying I've used one of my snubbies.
 

shoelessjoe

"I took out a Chihuahua!"
...Having said that, imagine the work to hand fit the parts and then to polish them up like the one you have...
Yessir, they’re a few worlds removed from today’s polymer & steel, no?

As an aside & totally unrelated, WW2 British Rolls-Royce Merlin motors were hand-built while Packard Merlin motors from Detroit were built via the assembly line, utilizing standardized parts. Replacing a battle-damaged or worn Packard Merlin component was a simple matter of grabbing a part from the bin & installing it ... conversely, replacement components had to be hand-fit in R-R Merlins.
 
No problems at all. Remember that Smith & Wesson used the same basic grip safety on their Safety Hammerless Top Break model from around 1887 right up to 1940. The Centennial was introduced of course in 1952 for S&W 100th Anniversary and adopted the same basic design but in the stronger "J" steel frame.

The one I have is from 1955 and is unusual because it also still has the User Safety Lock Pin that often got lost over the decades. Just as with modern locks, some users objected to the grip safety on the Centennial, even back to the Safety Hammerless era. So S&W provided a way to allow the user lock the grip safety.

If you take the grips off there are two additional holes in the frame and another in the grip safety itself. A tiny blued pin was stored in the lower hole but with both grips off could be pushed out. (and often lost) Then by depressing the grip safety to line up the upper frame holes and the hole in the grip safety the pin could be inserted. With the grips reinstalled the Grip Safety was locked in the "Live" or "Fire" position.

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About "trigger jobs" on my self defense handguns. Generally I like a long, heavy trigger on my pocket revolvers; they are not designed for "Bench Rest" or 25 yard bullseye shooting. I have other guns for that. My carry gun is meant for up close and very personal absolute last chance no other option situations. Sure, I can shoot out to considerable distances with them and the last few times I've shot a qualifying I've used one of my snubbies.
A pin lock? Someone really thought that one out.
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
I believe it has come up in past discussions, but from what I've read, the "jeweling" of the insides of the side plate was due to the way it was milled during production, not an extra fancy detail by caring and skilled craftsmen. It was merely a result of the type of milling process then is use, and disappeared when the milling process changed in later models.
...Those jeweled sideplates ... those were different people & most certainly different times, weren’t they? First thing I always do with a new-to-me firearm is to gut it & I just stared at that sideplate for a few minutes. I may have been the first person inside the 3rd-change since it left the factory.
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jar_

Too Fugly For Free.
A pin lock? Someone really thought that one out.
It's an interesting reflection on the fickleness and irrationality of the general public.

There has always been a market for safer handguns, and there have been a whole series of possible solutions from the simple manual safety that locks the trigger and slide to eccentric cam of the Hopkins & Allen revolvers to hammer blocks and transfer bars and magazine safeties and grip safeties. And there has always been a segment of the population that preferred to disable some of those safety mechanisms. As I said, the Smith & Wesson grip safety was introduced in the 1880s through 1940 and reintroduced in 1952.

The default condition when anyone bought a model 40 Smith was to always have the safety engaged. To disable the safety the owner had to take the grips off, punch the little pin out, line up the holes in the frame and grip safety, insert the pin and then put the grips back on.

Again though, the default condition was "Always On".

Much later Smith & Wesson offered the internal lock. Granted, the main driving force in the decision was most likely that the holding company that owned Smith & Wesson at the time also owned the patent rights through another company to the internal lock design and unless some locks got sold stood to lose money. But in the latter case there was one major difference I thought the gun owning public would have applauded.

The default condition of the internal lock was "Always Off".

To lock the gun the owner had to find the key that came with the gun, insert it and twist to lock it.

Again though, the default condition was "Always Off".

But it seems the general public really is just like Mikey; they hate everything!
 
I believe it has come up in past discussions, but from what I've read, the "jeweling" of the insides of the side plate was due to the way it was milled during production, not an extra fancy detail by caring and skilled craftsmen. It was merely a result of the type of milling process then is use, and disappeared when the milling process changed in later models.
 
You are probably be right, but my pistol has swirls on the front plate, back plate and the moving parts (except for the white parts). The most interesting is the trigger. The jeweling on the trigger is set so that you can not see the work unless you pull off the side plate. Imagine, that you buy a S&W 1905 that is out of tune, so you go to our gunsmith to get it made correct and find out that the inside of the pistol is more pretty than the outside. Maybe the guy that built my pistol had the time and the desire.
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
You are probably be right, but my pistol has swirls on the front plate, back plate and the moving parts (except for the white parts). The most interesting is the trigger. The jeweling on the trigger is set so that you can not see the work unless you pull off the side plate. Imagine, that you buy a S&W 1905 that is out of tune, so you go to our gunsmith to get it made correct and find out that the inside of the pistol is more pretty than the outside. Maybe the guy that built my pistol had the time and the desire.

If that is the case, I bet it was an after market job or special order feature. It could not be a cost effective process on a standard production gun.
 


My first handgun which is still the special favorite around here, a Smith & Wesson Model 10 Heavy Barrel .38 Special. I've had it for 43 years last December. Got its first holster about the same time, a Smith & Wesson brand holster bought at Larsen's Sporting Goods in Cleburne, Texas for $7 and some change. Lasted for 38 years in the field before use, abuse and neglect wore the holster out. The revolver continues to be used and abused and sometimes even neglected. Since then the revolver's hit the pavement at 40+ miles per hour after sliding off the roof of a car in a case of neglectful absentmindedness. Alzheimer's wing of the local nursing home here I come. The revolver was in a thin zippered case which offered some surface finish protection.

A kindly brother-in-law said it was wrong to see me afield with the revolver in any other style holster so provided me with a new-old-stock replacement for Christmas a few years back.

 
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