Review: Gillette NEW Improved

[Guido75]

Today was the first shave with my new NEW Improved courtesy of the immensely generous @lasta.

The NEW Improved (or more specifically the one I now have) is a two piece razor. This is my first two piece and I assembled/disassembled the razor a number of times to get a good understanding of what I needed to do. Not that it is at all difficult or anything, I just wanted to make sure that I treated her with respect and not overtighten for example.

Using Mr Razors website I can pinpoint this razor to 1922 based on the pictures I saw of other gold plated NEW Improved-s.

Top to bottom she measures 82mm and the cap’s width is 40mm. The weight including blade is 76 grams. Eyeing the cap and baseplate the blade gap is small. I would say similar to the NEW LC or Flat Bottom. It appears to be more than my Fatip Piccolo. That said I do notice that cap and baseplate are more aligned to each other and the cap provides the blade with just a bit more curvature as opposed to my NEW Flat Bottom for example. I think this contributes to the smoothness of the shave although the teeth are actually more forward.

Loading the blade is easy. I used a Gillette 7 o’clock black on its third run. There is quite a bit of overhang on the side so something to be mindful of when shaving near the ear or going across on the neck.

My impression is that this is a very smooth and mild razor. It is an open comb with hardly any blade feel if any at all. It is intuitive and nimble, light weight in the hand with good balance and excellent grip.

But do not let the niceties and smoothness fool you into thinking this is a tame razor! It is very effective and it took me just two passes with a little bit of jawline touch up to get a nice BBS end result. I will definitely try other blades as well obviously, but the black certainly delivered and so did the razor.

I think it’sa looker too! The kneeling on the handle, the finish and ease of use all make it a great addition to my collection. So Razor Rotation Anxiety can roar once more!

I have already tagged you numerous times and I don’t want to tag you to death, but as this is only the day after @lasta thank you again for sending me this amazing gift and razor. One really happy camper signing off!

Have a great weekend everyone.

 

[Shaun asleep]

New improveds are awesome!
But... How is this a two piece razor? You know the center part (the part you twist is connected to a cilinder shaped center piece) can fall/come out, right?

At least... It does on my NI from Bostonian set,I'm guessing those are the same?

I'm asking because wouldn't want you to drop and damage it.

Did I mention NI are awesome?!

 

[Guido75]

New improveds are awesome!
But... How is this a two piece razor? You know the center part (the part you twist is connected to a cilinder shaped center piece) can fall/come out, right?

I'm asking because wouldn't want you to drop and damage it.

Did I mention NI are awesome?!

Yes Shaun I see what you mean! Technically it is a three piece razor, you are absolutely right. I mixed that up, because the baseplate is attached to the outer cilinder. So rest assured I know the screw comes entirely loose.

They are indeed awesome!

Guido

 

[Shaun asleep]

Great! Just to be clear, I wasnt saying that because I feel the need to be right. I was genuinly worried you might drop it...

Either that or there was a Ni mechanism I wasnt aware of.

I have a regular Fatip oc (only had FOCS) on my wanted list, how would you compare them in shave feel and efficiency?

 

[Guido75]

Great! Just to be clear, I wasnt saying that because I feel the need to be right. I was genuinly worried you might drop it...

Didn’t even cross my mind my friend. I know you were being genuine.

I have a regular Fatip oc (only had FOCS) on my wanted list, how would you compare them in shave feel and efficiency?

Hmm…maybe too early to really tell, but I am going with the Fatip being a little bit more efficient. Shave feel is quite similar to me. As is the positioning of the blade.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[lasta]

Glad you are enjoying it Guido!

The Tuckaway (identical head) is probably my favorite razor.

New Improved's don't get enough love around here. It has nice wide teeth which makes them smoother than later open combs, and for the modern technically inclined crowd, wider fulcrum and better blade rigidity (I hate that term) than the later New Deluxe.

 

[Guido75]

Glad you are enjoying it Guido!

The Tuckaway (identical head) is probably my favorite razor.

New Improved's don't get enough love around here. It has nice wide teeth which makes them smoother than later open combs, and for the modern technically inclined crowd, wider fulcrum and better blade rigidity (I hate that term) than the later New Deluxe.

Enjoying it to the max and you have achieved the most unlikely goal: I have an extra razor and the LOTH was very forgiving, because I didn’t buy this one myself or behind her back!

So extra credits to you!

Guido

 

[santamariasteve]

I find the Gillette New Improved razor to be wonderful in appearance and effective in performance, but I also find it to be very aggressive. It will bite you if one is not careful. I find 2 passes with the GNI razor is the equivalent of 3 passes on most razors.

The key to success is good prep, LIGHT pressure, slow short strokes, and concentration.

 

[Medivh]

The New Improved is probably my favorite vintage Gillette razor. I was very surprised of how good it was, because most find it very aggressive and uncomfortable. I'd say it's a bit more efficient and a bit less smooth than a NEW LC. It's a very steep shaver, which is the main reason why I really like it.

 

[lasta]

I'm surprised by the widely deviating opinions here!

I also find the NI one of my more blade forward razors. But @Guido75 's standard for smooth is R41/Razorine Flatboy + a Tiger with two dozen shaves on it. So YMMV lol.

If anyone can get a full shave out of this proletariat blade, it would be him:

 

[Guido75]

Well the Tiger blade, I love it and hate it simultaneously, but yes smooth and comfortable is a R41 with just about any blade in my experience so far. I do find the R41 to be smoother than the Flatboy, but that depends on the blade I use with the Flatboy.

The thought did cross my mind to try this Russian / Eastern blade - brand Pezvia (which according to Google Translate resembles I Sing) in the Flatboy - but for now that remains just a thought!

The NI this morning was just a breeze. I am with @Medivh on the effectiveness of the NI. I think the smoothness is on par with the NEW LC and slightly better than the NEW Flat Bottom.

Cannot say much yet about @santamariasteve ’s comments on aggressiveness. This morning it was ok, but it was also with a used blade, so maybe that smoothened things out a bit. I did a two pass so that is similar at least. A Fatip and a Feather can get me to almost BBS in one pass I learned the other day.

Loving that YMMV anthem!

Guido

 

[Medivh]

Well the Tiger blade, I love it and hate it simultaneously, but yes smooth and comfortable is a R41 with just about any blade in my experience so far. I do find the R41 to be smoother than the Flatboy, but that depends on the blade I use with the Flatboy.

The thought did cross my mind to try this Russian / Eastern blade - brand Pezvia (which according to Google Translate resembles I Sing) in the Flatboy - but for now that remains just a thought!

The NI this morning was just a breeze. I am with @Medivh on the effectiveness of the NI. I think the smoothness is on par with the NEW LC and slightly better than the NEW Flat Bottom.

Cannot say much yet about @santamariasteve ’s comments on aggressiveness. This morning it was ok, but it was also with a used blade, so maybe that smoothened things out a bit. I did a two pass so that is similar at least. A Fatip and a Feather can get me to almost BBS in one pass I learned the other day.

Loving that YMMV anthem!

Guido

I forgot to mention that there are two versions of the NI. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the first version was made from 1921-1927 and the second one from 1927-1928/1929.

According to the serial number, mine was made in 1927 and I've heard that the late version shaves a bit different and most prefer the first version, so that might be one of the many reasons why some folks find the NI aggressive.

The other reasons is that everyone has it's own angle preference and I find the NI to be a very steep shaver just the way I like it.

Both pictures are from different razors and both gold plated ones are from the newer version and the nick/silver plated ones are the older version.

 

[santamariasteve]

Interesting. My Gillette New Improved is a 1921 model, in triple silver (whatever that means).

I hated it at first, as it was always biting me. Then I carefully analyzed my technique and adjusted it. The major adjustments were a lighter pressure, and to slow down.

 

[Guido75]

I forgot to mention that there are two versions of the NI. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the first version was made from 1921-1927 and the second one from 1927-1928/1929.

According to the serial number, mine was made in 1927 and I've heard that the late version shaves a bit different and most prefer the first version, so that might be one of the many reasons why some folks find the NI aggressive.

The other reasons is that everyone has it's own angle preference and I find the NI to be a very steep shaver just the way I like it.

Both pictures are from different razors and both gold plated ones are from the newer version and the nick/silver plated ones are the older version.

Thanks @Medivh - this is really interesting! I immediately went upstairs to check, because I know mine has a number obviously. But I did not know how to read it. So ok, using Razor Emporiums website I have identified my razor to be from 1924 and it measures 15 mm or 15.5 as you stated.

That’s particular date is not available from mr razors website, but visually it resembles the Aristocrat or the Richwood. It is still an interesting case of YMMV - Lasta now has a Tuckaway which is from the same date coding and finds that one blade forward.

I also checked the blade curvature and to my eye it very much resembles my Fatip. I even think the cap has the same curve.

I do tend to shave more steel than anything else.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[tankerjohn]

Excellent review! Very well researched. I'm glad you enjoy your New Improved. It happens to be one of my favorites as well, in fact the only open comb in my rotation. I find it very smooth with a fresh Astra SP, though perhaps slightly less efficient than either the Red Tip or Ranger Tech. Nevertheless, its just fun to use with a great Roaring 20's vibe.

 

[tankerjohn]

I'm surprised by the widely deviating opinions here!

I feel like the old "YMMV" applies doubly to vintage razors. I have two Ranger Techs and they both shave quite differently. Not sure if its due to manufacturing variance or just one lived a harder life than the other prior to my ownership. It seems to me that anything that's been around for 70+ years is liable to have been dropped, dinged, or whatever (unless it's NOS) and little tweeks here and there can affect how the razor feels on your face.

 

[ivan_101]

I'm surprised by the widely deviating opinions here!

I also find the NI one of my more blade forward razors. But @Guido75 's standard for smooth is R41/Razorine Flatboy + a Tiger with two dozen shaves on it. So YMMV lol.

If anyone can get a full shave out of this proletariat blade, it would be him:

View attachment 1539774

Do not shave with those blades. They are not for shaving. 'Для технических целей' means they are for cutting different things at labs, home etc. Not for shaving.

 

[Guido75]

Do not shave with those blades. They are not for shaving. 'Для технических целей' means they are for cutting different things at labs, home etc. Not for shaving.

That’s what my research led me to believe as well - I read something about sowing which exactly what will happen after I would have had a shave with them! I still like the vintage aspect of them though.

Guido

 

[Guido75]

Excellent review! Very well researched. I'm glad you enjoy your New Improved. It happens to be one of my favorites as well, in fact the only open comb in my rotation. I find it very smooth with a fresh Astra SP, though perhaps slightly less efficient than either the Red Tip or Ranger Tech. Nevertheless, its just fun to use with a great Roaring 20's vibe.

Thanks John! Them is morning’s shave was excellent as well. And it has sparked my interest once more into these types of razors. I have spotted a Rothbart RFB SC which is a clone from Gillette’s RFB after they acquired the Rothbart company. Haven’t outlets the trigger yet because I am still thinking if this is my shiny object syndrome taking or a really different shaving experience.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[lasta]

That’s what my research led me to believe as well - I read something about sowing which exactly what will happen after I would have had a shave with them! I still like the vintage aspect of them though.

Guido

I apologize for subjecting you to a potentially harmful experience!