- Thread starter
- #21
Restoring the Filarmonica 13
- Thread starter camoloc
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
gonna take it easy for the rest of the eve and watch movies with my better half. plenty of work I can resume in the morn.
there is a raised plastic area on the pivot area that will need removed and smoothed out before proceeding (outside of scale by pivot hole.) had to do it with the wedge end too. think peen pressure moves some of the scale material.
on an interesting note, on the inside of the scales at the pivot there are raised plastic or whatever material that acts as inner washers. when I pin it....im still adding the micro thin brass washers I have. the bigger decision I'll need to ponder is whether to remove the plastic raised washer like thingys......or leave them be.
camo
Last edited:
I think most Filly's had the raised area for washers on the inside.
Never seen it in any other brand.
Never seen it in any other brand.
- Thread starter
- #24
roger that......dilemma is that it is significantly worn on one side. thats why im leaning toward removing. adding the nice brass washers anyway.
camo
- Thread starter
- #25
and...............fini !!!!!!!
finished pinning the pivot this morn. coffee. so for this on the pivot it went collar, very small washer, inside brass washer, then blade. a lot of stuff to keep track of when you're getting ready to permanently seal it off.
after reflection last eve and this morn.....I did a couple of things that made pinning this side easier.
1. pre fit pin to scales to make sure everything is kosher.
2. opened up hole on anvil slightly. used oil and polishing compound.
3. chucked pin into drill and made sure pin fit into anvil and spun it inside.
4. always painter tape scale side laying against anvil......and blade in closed position.
5. coffee
I'm really pleased with the collars. some of them did have slight pieces or burrs moving away from the edge perpendicular to the collar face. most likely due punching process. with the two I used this morn, I stone dremeled the edges ever so slightly on lowest speed possible. worked with no issues. a little OCD.
shinning with the polishing compound!!!!
that will pretty much conclude this thread. off to the 1.5k kuromaku for bevel set. I will say that I dont believe this blade was used hardly or at all. no hone irregularities on the blade....and sometimes when polishing near the edge....it felt like it was wanting to sharpen just by that action. it's right on the edge....so I might approach bevel set with just alternating strokes in place of burr method. if that doesnt pan out to satisfaction, I can always revert back.
I'll save letter painting for another rainy day and maybe test on a cheaper razor first.
not too bad for under one Benjamin.
thanks all again for listening or enduring the journey.
camo
finished pinning the pivot this morn. coffee. so for this on the pivot it went collar, very small washer, inside brass washer, then blade. a lot of stuff to keep track of when you're getting ready to permanently seal it off.
after reflection last eve and this morn.....I did a couple of things that made pinning this side easier.
1. pre fit pin to scales to make sure everything is kosher.
2. opened up hole on anvil slightly. used oil and polishing compound.
3. chucked pin into drill and made sure pin fit into anvil and spun it inside.
4. always painter tape scale side laying against anvil......and blade in closed position.
5. coffee
I'm really pleased with the collars. some of them did have slight pieces or burrs moving away from the edge perpendicular to the collar face. most likely due punching process. with the two I used this morn, I stone dremeled the edges ever so slightly on lowest speed possible. worked with no issues. a little OCD.
shinning with the polishing compound!!!!
that will pretty much conclude this thread. off to the 1.5k kuromaku for bevel set. I will say that I dont believe this blade was used hardly or at all. no hone irregularities on the blade....and sometimes when polishing near the edge....it felt like it was wanting to sharpen just by that action. it's right on the edge....so I might approach bevel set with just alternating strokes in place of burr method. if that doesnt pan out to satisfaction, I can always revert back.
I'll save letter painting for another rainy day and maybe test on a cheaper razor first.
not too bad for under one Benjamin.
thanks all again for listening or enduring the journey.
camo
- Thread starter
- #26
oh yeah, forgot to mention.
did not remove built in plastic washers on the inside. they really were not as worn as i thought after looking at them with magnification.
camo
Nice work!
Always a compromise between respecting the history, and wanting to make it look good.
You did well, and found a good balance.
Always a compromise between respecting the history, and wanting to make it look good.
You did well, and found a good balance.
- Thread starter
- #28
thank you very much. I know shes at least cleaned and up to par this way.
some of the stuff I've found around pivots......scares me and gives me nightmares. lol.
camo
- Thread starter
- #29
done and done.
I would not have thought the 12k shapton kuromaku would have made that big of a difference. I usually used a Cnat 12k or hard black Ark. I was sorely mistaken.
belly hair test was armageddon. passed wife's HHT in multiple places on the blade. I'm usually happy with at least on spot.
so finished on the 12k stone then of course ran the gauntlet of balsa strops.
I know which razor is up for tomorrow morning!!!!!
good beginning stone 1500 and end stone.
I can say this is the finest blade I've had to pleasure to work with. zero grind or form issues.......flat as a pancake on the stones with not a hint of wobble or irregularity anywhere.
be well all.
camo
I would not have thought the 12k shapton kuromaku would have made that big of a difference. I usually used a Cnat 12k or hard black Ark. I was sorely mistaken.
belly hair test was armageddon. passed wife's HHT in multiple places on the blade. I'm usually happy with at least on spot.
so finished on the 12k stone then of course ran the gauntlet of balsa strops.
I know which razor is up for tomorrow morning!!!!!
good beginning stone 1500 and end stone.
I can say this is the finest blade I've had to pleasure to work with. zero grind or form issues.......flat as a pancake on the stones with not a hint of wobble or irregularity anywhere.
be well all.
camo
Last edited:
That looks soooooooo Good
Hey Nothing wrong in looking for non-acetone remover, we have all done it at some stage what is better when you cannot find it. Is asking an assistant for it as you need to remove your nail polish on ya toes, that makes them look at ya funny more so when your with the wife that goes bright red. Now that is priceless
But you have done a fantastic job on that, Well done Sir!!!
- Thread starter
- #31
That looks soooooooo Good
Hey Nothing wrong in looking for non-acetone remover, we have all done it at some stage what is better when you cannot find it. Is asking an assistant for it as you need to remove your nail polish on ya toes, that makes them look at ya funny more so when your with the wife that goes bright red. Now that is priceless
But you have done a fantastic job on that, Well done Sir!!!
thanks ice,
this was a good project. the reward being what I consider a "top of the line" piece of work (at least to me.) the biggest thing was that this one was in the affordable range too!!!!
camo
Very true!!! And as I was told pretty don't shave, so if you lose the gold wash oh well at least you still have a razor that looks beautiful and shaves.
Oh and just to add get some clear nail polish, that is one way to help save the gold wash while polishing.
And yes the lady in the shop have gotten use to me now with nail polish
And yes the lady in the shop have gotten use to me now with nail polish
- Thread starter
- #34
Oh and just to add get some clear nail polish, that is one way to help save the gold wash while polishing.
And yes the lady in the shop have gotten use to me now with nail polish
yeah I read about that technique.....but probably wouldnt have used it. I couldnt get a picture of what i was trying to explain.....
i dont know how this is possible but it looked like the gold had drifted or oxidized to the point that it was covering most of the letter work on 3/4 of that area. oxidization. i think that's the best term to describe what might have happened there ??? it made most lettering non-existent and I could not see the harp or lyre in the center.
oh yeah. already have plenty of clear polish from fly tying materials. no stranger to the world of Sally Hansen.
camo
Last edited:
Most important question: How did the shave go?
- Thread starter
- #36
absolutely stunning as well. smooth blade that doesnt feel like its touching my face. If you dropped me off on an island......I want this one with me. I didnt think there could be that much of a difference.
camo
famous last words on this sub.
- Thread starter
- #38
Agree!
I thought it was mostly hype, until I tried one.
Think it's the combination of blade length, thin grind and good steel that makes them special.
I just bought one because of you camoloc! 
Similar threads
