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Restoring a W&B razor; rust removal tips?

Hello ya'll,

I recently got a razor from a friend since he knew I liked straight razors, but there was a bit of rust all over the blade and the scales were so holy at this point, I had to remove them and will dispose of them. This is what they look like without the scales:

Image.jpeg Image 56.jpeg Image 57.jpeg

My initial plan to improve the condition of my razor (after some research on the threads) was to:
1.)
Use Evapo-rust to remove the majority of the red rust, hopefully without removing too much of the black material (magnetite?) from inside the engravings or damaging the engraving themselves.
Quick question: Does Evapo-rust damage the blades or change the carbon makeup of the steel? This would be important to know before using it or thinking of another solution (e.g. white vinegar, etc.). The reason I chose Evapo-rust because I saw it on a previous thread on B&B similar to mine and it seems to be safe to use and had good reviews online. I also chose to use a chemical rust remover first prior any physical means of rust removal because I want to assess the level of damage on the blade before doing anything I might regret.

2.) At this point, two possibilities depending on the level of underlying rust and pitting:
2a.) If the blade is still deeply rusted or significant pitting was found, I was going to use hand sanding using a similar progression to the one found on this sticky thread.
2b.) If the rust was mostly surface without significant pitting, I was going to either sand with high grit (1000+) only or use Super fine 0000 steel wool to help remove any lingering rust and small pits from blade.

- For both, I will use a nail polish barrier (approximately 2-3 coats) over the engravings I want to protect while I sand the blade. I purchased a micro-diamond and titanium formula polish so it should hopefully hold up well during this process. (See here for what I'm using). I will also try to avoid doing any heavy work around the bevel to not damage the edge or cause a chip.

3.) I will finish with a metal polish cream to make it hopefully shine a bit. It took me a bit to find suggestions on this, but I settled on using either MAAS (Why do they have a french lavender formula??) or Simichrome to polish my blade, depending on what you guys think. I have both coming in the mail so I could go either way.
I'm not sure how gentle the metal polish would be on the engravings, but if I have to I can use another coat of the nail polish to protect things if need be. Your thoughts?

4.) Once the blade is restored somewhat, I'm looking for somebody with experience in honing a wedge blade without costing me an arm and a leg and hopefully wouldn't hone over my engravings. Takers?

5.) After all these steps, I will pin some nice looking horn scales onto this blade myself, make adjustments as necessary.

With this thread, I hope to get some good advice on restoring this great piece of wet shaving history and I want to also get some restoration experience under my belt. I also hope that this thread helps somebody else out there that is looking to work on blades with extensive engravings like this one.

I will continue to add posts to this thread with new pictures of my progress as I work on this razor; right now, I'm waiting for my metal polish creams and bottle of Evapo-rust to come in the mail before I do anything, but please give me your advice/tips on working on this blade and thanks for your advice in advance!
 
Someone with a bit more experience restoring may chime in with a better answer, but to me it looks like the amount of rust/pitting you have at the edge, it's not going to make a good shaver.

I could be wrong as I don't have it in hand and only going be photos, but normally there is significant pitting under that much red rust. It takes a fair amount of material removal to get those pits out. In the sides, they can be cleaned and lived with, but on an edge they need to be removed or your shaving edge will look like a steak knife.

Hopefully someone with more experience can give you a better answer, because that is a beautiful blade.
 
If this was a hollow ground blade, you certainly are correct. However, since these W&B choppers are wedge ground, I'm hoping there still a bit of steel left under that rust as these blades tend to run thick.

I hope to restore this to some glory and shavailability because as you mentioned, this is quite a beaut of a blade.
 
If this was a hollow ground blade, you certainly are correct. However, since these W&B choppers are wedge ground, I'm hoping there still a bit of steel left under that rust as these blades tend to run thick.

I hope to restore this to some glory and shavailability because as you mentioned, this is quite a beaut of a blade.
You are correct, there is a lot more steel on them. And as I said, I don't have it in hand to see how bad it actually is. Also admittedly, I haven't done a lot of heavy restoration work either.

I have seen some here that have done what others would have said is impossible, so there is always hope. :thumbsup:
Hopefully one of those guys will be along and give you better advice than I can.
 
I have never used evade-rust so no help there.

Looks like you will have to sand some no matter what evaporated-rust does.

You will be walking a fine line of getting out pits vs keeping the engraving, stop when you are happy.

Calculate the bevel angle and use no more than one layer of tape unless it is asked for by the angle.

You might get your bevel to ride up the engravings, unfortunately not much you can do on that and still have a razor that shaves well. Sure you can add several layers of tape and keep the bevel tiny but then you will not get a razor, you will have a razor shaped knife.
 
Thanks for the input, Doc. I was afraid about that bevel, but if I have to nick off a little of the engraving, it wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. I just want to make sure I preserve as much as I can.

Any thoughts on the metal polish or who could hone this blade for me?
 
I apologize since it's been a while since I posted here so I wanted to get some quick updates uploaded:

This is what it looked like after I soaked the razor in Evapo-rust for approximately 3 hours, rinsed in hot water, and dried. It removed any active red rust and left behind some minor pits and black rust here and there.

Image (2).jpeg Image 2.jpeg

Afterwards, I hand-sanded the razor using wet sand paper from my local auto body shop, going up the scale with approximately 20 minutes per grit:

400 --> 600 --> 800 --> 1000 --> 1200 --> 1500 --> 2000 --> 2150

Finally I polished the razor using paper towels and MAAS metal polish to finish things off.

Image 3.jpeg Image 4.jpeg

I wish I had a machine to buff (maybe I'll consider using a rotary tool like a Dremel) but I think I'm satisfied overall since I removed most if not all traces of active rust with minimal damage to the blade and its engravings.

The only thing I need to do now is get this blade honed and re-scaled and I think I'll be back in business! Since I'm still learning, I was going to have this blade professionally honed and then I'll attempt to pin on some new scales myself.

I'll keep you guys posted.
 
That has come up very nice, I would rescale first then hone it as the scales protect the edge, or you will end up having it honed twice.
But very well done on that one.
 
  1. Nice work removing the rust. Your main issue is that this blade is already missing about 1/8" of steel on the edge side. You can see the existing edge comes 'into' the etch. Originally, there was a decent bit of space between that oval and the bevel. Adding to this, is that the spine wear is not commensurate with the edge wear, so it's probable that your bevel angle might be fairly 'fat'. Pluse, to not compromise the 'top' of the oval, honing on tape is almost mandatory here. Doing so will add 1˚ to your bevel's angle. That might not seem like a lot but it will depend on what the existing angle is actually.
 
Thanks for the replies guy!
@ Gamma, I figured that the etch is going to get worked on somewhat when I bought this fixer-up blade, I just hope I can minimize the damage done as much as I can.

I'm sending this blade out to get honed professionally, so I can only cross my fingers on how the edge and etching will turn out, though you guys did drop some good advice.
 
17-Jan-2018 update:

Got my razor back from the professional honer, and here is what it looks like now:
IMG_537931383.JPG IMG_537931472.JPG IMG_537931521.JPG IMG_537931553.JPG IMG_537931561.JPG IMG_537931602.JPG

Uploaded several different angles so you can see the honing work and some closer details on the razor's body. A small portion of the etching has been removed while honing but it was price worth paying for a now shave-ready blade. I'm glad that the pits near the edge weren't too deep and didn't get in the way of a nice, sharp bevel.

The blade itself was buffed up further to have more shine and unfortunately, I didn't get to pin the scales on this one but if I decide to change the scales in the future, I might post an update.

I took this razor and shaved off my bushy, 3 day old beard with it and I am satisfied with the close shave it gives. Kudos to Sam Sylver for helping with sharpening, pinning the scales on, and other work on this razor!

All in all, I'm happy with this blade and considering I paid zilch to initially get this blade and this was my first restoration ever, the investment in the tools and time spent fixing this blade up was worth it in my book for the knowledge and experience gained, plus I get a nice W&B shaver out of it.

Things I might improve on in the future:
- I might consider reducing the number of in-between grits when sanding another blade in the future, to cut down on time and scratches that I put on the blade
- Invest in a buffing rotatory tool - I think running a razor under a cloth wheel +/- buffing compound might be worth it in the future to get that mirror shine, we'll see.
- Learn honing techniques, get stones - I would love to learn to do this myself, especially since I also have kitchen knives I need to sharpen and hone up in addition to my straight razor collection.

I can't wait to get another blade to work on, and I'll post some more stuff on B&B when I do!
 
I want to thank you for introducing me to EvapoRust. I had been using naval jelly with pretty decent result but the EvapoRust does it a little differently, I like it.

Congratulations on getting that wonderful razor restored.
 
I want to thank you for introducing me to EvapoRust. I had been using naval jelly with pretty decent result but the EvapoRust does it a little differently, I like it.

Congratulations on getting that wonderful razor restored.

Glad I could help! That's the main reason I started this thread, sharing knowledge and all that fun stuff.
 
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Hello,

I have a question. I saw Sfeile and StraighEdgeBlade comments on wedge vs hollow in terms of rust at the edge...

why does it even matter? Let's say I have a full hollow with around a millimeter of rust in one spot, on the edge...

wouldn't I just hone the blade enough that I remove about 1 or 2mm of steel, and then be good to go? Yeah, sure, it shortens the life of the razor, but it's better than crying while shaving or putting it in the garbage can, ain't it?

So, yeah, why does it matter? If it's huge and you go big bang (sand at like 180 the hell out of it), and then try to fix the geometry and create a new nice bevel, sure, a nightmare...

but even if it's hollow and got a bit of rust at the complete edge, wouldn't that mean that simply having some honing (until enough steel is gone) would get rid of it and let the razor be good to go?

Something like attached, for instance. A bit more than 1 or even 2 mm, I think, but still.
 
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View attachment 913775 Hello,

I have a question. I saw Sfeile and StraighEdgeBlade comments on wedge vs hollow in terms of rust at the edge...

why does it even matter? Let's say I have a full hollow with around a millimeter of rust in one spot, on the edge...

wouldn't I just hone the blade enough that I remove about 1 or 2mm of steel, and then be good to go? Yeah, sure, it shortens the life of the razor, but it's better than crying while shaving or putting it in the garbage can, ain't it?

So, yeah, why does it matter? If it's huge and you go big bang (sand at like 180 the hell out of it), and then try to fix the geometry and create a new nice bevel, sure, a nightmare...

but even if it's hollow and got a bit of rust at the complete edge, wouldn't that mean that simply having some honing (until enough steel is gone) would get rid of it and let the razor be good to go?

Something like attached, for instance. A bit more than 1 or even 2 mm, I think, but still.

When we were discussing about the amount of rust at the edge of the blade, we were worried about the possibility of pretty severe pitting at the edge of the razor (which would be a huge hassle to get rid of if it were possible, like grinding off quite a bit of steel, maybe setting a new bevel, etc.).

In the end, it just depends on how deep the rust goes and how much rust you are willing to grind off before you reach good steel again. Fortunately for the W&B blade that you see, the rust was fairly superficial and it still holds a great edge to this day.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
What you want is for the apex, the very edge of the edge, to be sound steel with no pits. Simply hone until you get that. Some razors are so far gone that no matter how deep you hone, you still end up with pitting at the edge.
 
Have you bought it if not walk away, as the rust is on the edge and it will be pitted. So you might struggle getting a good edge to shave with.

But that is just me as I bought one just like it and I never was able to hone it to shave with.....
Thank you. I was afraid that was the case. No, I wanted to check here before considering.
 
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