Restoration supplies

[Kione]

Hi again folks 2 questions for ya here.
Firstly If I'm going to start doing straight razor shaves (and I really really hope to) I know myself well enough to know I'm going to want to be able to grab 'trash' razors at yard sales and such and restore them. So my question is thus:
Assuming I have no hones, strops, pastes, flattening plates, anything at all (excepting a buffing wheel)other than a old straight razor itself. About how much would it run to get all the things I need? Hard question I know. Furthermore, is there any place that has everything needed at one spot? Or other really good recommended place. I'm aiming to have a number to aim at for saving

Second much less difficult question.:
I am a gunsmith and do a lot of metal work, including refinishing and bluing. I've been thinking about bluing a straight, purely for aesthetics. I just think that a black bladed straight has some neat design potential. Has this been tried before? Are there any reasons why this shouldn't be done?

Many thanks folks!

 

[Luc]

For your first question, depends where you shop, if you want new or use. Where are you located?

Let's take it 1 step at the time

Hones, it depends what you want, if you want to hone razors with huge chips or just maintain them. It depends on the stones that you buy also, some are cheap, some are quite expensive. At this stage, I would recommend skipping the hones. If you really want a stone, I would recommend either a finishing stone or a barber hone to maintain the edge.

Strops, I would recommend 2 strops. The first strop is going to be beat up and might end up in a few pieces. If you are not used to strop, you will nick it for sure, and it's all right. Buy a cheaper strop and then a better/bigger strop after a few months. It took me 9 months to move to my "better strop" but I did it slowly.

pastes. Some swear by them, I don't use them, those are very cheap but you will need a strop for each paste.

Flatening plates? Like diamond plates? there are a few in workshops that are cheap.

I never saw a blade blade other than a blade full of pitting. Your blade probably won't be 100% black as when you will hone it, the stone will eat some metal on the edge and on the spine if you don't tape it.

 

[Legion]

Bluing; Yep, it's sometimes done. I think Bill Ellis has something about it on his CD? I've seen it done, anyway. You would, of course, remove all the bluing from the bevel and spine when you hone.

 

[spindlecone]

My dad was a Gunsmith, did alot of resto work for Abercrombie, orvis etc.
I think as an exhibition piece a blued blade would be fantastic. but only if rust blued the old fashioned way with nitric acid.
Is nothing that compares to that fine old Royal blue as seen on old winchesters and parker doubles, horredous amt of time and effort tho.

 

[Kione]

For your first question, depends where you shop, if you want new or use. Where are you located?

Let's take it 1 step at the time

Hones, it depends what you want, if you want to hone razors with huge chips or just maintain them. It depends on the stones that you buy also, some are cheap, some are quite expensive. At this stage, I would recommend skipping the hones. If you really want a stone, I would recommend either a finishing stone or a barber hone to maintain the edge.

Strops, I would recommend 2 strops. The first strop is going to be beat up and might end up in a few pieces. If you are not used to strop, you will nick it for sure, and it's all right. Buy a cheaper strop and then a better/bigger strop after a few months. It took me 9 months to move to my "better strop" but I did it slowly.

pastes. Some swear by them, I don't use them, those are very cheap but you will need a strop for each paste.

Flatening plates? Like diamond plates? there are a few in workshops that are cheap.

I never saw a blade blade other than a blade full of pitting. Your blade probably won't be 100% black as when you will hone it, the stone will eat some metal on the edge and on the spine if you don't tape it.

Humm, At first it would probably be simply learning how to shave with/ how to strop and such. Later, if I enjoy it as much as I think I would, I'd like to start restoring but that can wait for now I guess. And a used product is great for me, so long as it works. I'm one of the North Carolina guys, out near the coast.

The straight I have now has no nicks or anything, and is only dull in comparison with where it should be for shaving so a strop might be enough to bring it back, not sure. I thought however pastes were a necessity, I didn't know leather could maintain an edge without them. So I guess I should save up for a simple used strop to practice on and go from there.

As far as bluing goes I know there will be the twin lines of bare steel on the edge and spine But wouldn't think that would detract from the look. The only thing I can think of that could be a problem is any variations in the steel could blue differently and show up in the finish.

but only if rust blued the old fashioned way with nitric acid.

Ohh, I hadn't thought of that, it could truly be gorgeous, but with the thin steel of a singing razor if you screwed up you wouldn't get a second chance.

Sounds like a fun challenge to aim for on down the line.

 

[pz93c]

Fire blue would look great, too.

 

[duck]

Fire blue would look great, too.

+1

 

[Kione]

Fire blue would look great, too.

Wouldn't you have to be ultra careful with a fire blue to avoid tempering distortions? The only was I can think of doing something like that would be to use a color case hardening method...

Humm, it looks like I need a bucket of projects to experiment on

 

[spindlecone]

Color case hardening is done in a kiln at very high temps, the Items to be colored are put in the kiln and packed with animal bone, teeth, etc and fired until the calcium burns off and imparts the colors on the metal.
Google turnbull restorations, he is the master of color case hardening and rifle restoration.