Is there a way to straighten out an edge with a minor dent/ding without removing all of the metal? I assume I can treat it as a chip, but would I would like to avoid removing the metal if there's a different/better way.
Thanks
Thanks
Repairing a dented edge?
- Thread starter Obiwan
- Start date
Do you have a picture?
- Thread starter
- #3
No. Grind it out.
Get yourself a coarse dmt, sit infront of the tv and have a go until you reach good metal.
Personally, i probably wouldnt mess with it. But that doesnt mean you wont be able to salvage something I guess....
Personally, i probably wouldnt mess with it. But that doesnt mean you wont be able to salvage something I guess....
Even after breadknifing until the chip is gone, the razor will still shave nicely.
My advice is to breadknife on a really gritty whetstone, the type you buy for $6 at a hardware store. Breadknife with the blade straight up, until the chip is gone. As you get close, run your finger along the edge (which will be flat) and you will feel the chip. Even though you might not see the chip, it might still be there. But, when you don't feel anything and it is perfectly flat, then move to the next stage.
Holding the blade at an angle, hone some of the bevel away using the same rough grit whetstone. BUT, carefully hold the spine off the whetstone while doing so. (Not as hard as it sounds.) Hone both sides to return the edge more or less back to the V bevel shape.
When you have breadknifed, and "set" the bevel on the whetstone, then move to your DMTs.
The above saves your DMTs at the price of a $6 whetstone that you probably will never wear out. And, you will get the job done more rapidly than even, say, a DMT 220.
My advice is to breadknife on a really gritty whetstone, the type you buy for $6 at a hardware store. Breadknife with the blade straight up, until the chip is gone. As you get close, run your finger along the edge (which will be flat) and you will feel the chip. Even though you might not see the chip, it might still be there. But, when you don't feel anything and it is perfectly flat, then move to the next stage.
Holding the blade at an angle, hone some of the bevel away using the same rough grit whetstone. BUT, carefully hold the spine off the whetstone while doing so. (Not as hard as it sounds.) Hone both sides to return the edge more or less back to the V bevel shape.
When you have breadknifed, and "set" the bevel on the whetstone, then move to your DMTs.
The above saves your DMTs at the price of a $6 whetstone that you probably will never wear out. And, you will get the job done more rapidly than even, say, a DMT 220.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for the tips. Right now the coursest hone I'm using is a DMT 1200 so it makes sense to look for a $6 beater stone for this project.
That dent may be too severe for this to work, but I have successfully hammered out blade deflections similar to this in the past. You need an immovable base like a relatively heavy anvil or piece of railroad track to lay the edge of the blade on. Use a regular size ball peen hammer to lightly tap the deflection out. If it doesn't work, then you can always go back to plan B. This will only work if the blade does not have a crack or tear in that area, though.
Going from the rough grit whetstone to the DMT 1200 is not a good idea! That is too far a jump, and you will spend FOREVER on the DMT 1200. I wouldn't even think of doing it unless I had another DMT (or similar hone) at least half between the whetstone and the DMT 1200.
I use the whetstone, DMT 220, DMT 325, DMT 600, and DMT 1200. You could get by with a DMT 600. Possibly, you could substitute an Arkansas hone in between.
I use the whetstone, DMT 220, DMT 325, DMT 600, and DMT 1200. You could get by with a DMT 600. Possibly, you could substitute an Arkansas hone in between.
- Thread starter
- #10
Thanks for saving me the time. I think I'll hold off on this one until I aquire some lower DMTs then.
