I hate jimping (gimping is something else I won't go into here) for the most part but what I do is get some dental tape/ribbon (the wide dental floss, see pic below) put a pea sized blob of Autosol or equivalent metal polish on your forefinger, pinch with your thumb and draw the dental ribbon through the polish to get a good foot of it covered. Gently clamp the razor in a vice, jimps facing up, and do a see-saw motion on the jimps. When you get comfortable being able to keep the floss/ribbon in one jimp at a time you can build up the polishing speed and it's fairly effective. You can also use a toothpick in the same fashion using the length of the pick.
Removing rust and general cleaning questions
- Thread starter Eastcoast30
- Start date
I hate jimping (gimping is something else I won't go into here) for the most part but what I do is get some dental tape/ribbon (the wide dental floss, see pic below) put a pea sized blob of Autosol or equivalent metal polish on your forefinger, pinch with your thumb and draw the dental ribbon through the polish to get a good foot of it covered. Gently clamp the razor in a vice, jimps facing up, and do a see-saw motion on the jimps. When you get comfortable being able to keep the floss/ribbon in one jimp at a time you can build up the polishing speed and it's fairly effective. You can also use a toothpick in the same fashion using the length of the pick.
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- #22
Thank you for that!
Can anyone confirm that following/in the direction of the original grind lines means perpendicular to the edge?
I ask after watching grinding wheels running perpendicular to the edge in this video:
I ask after watching grinding wheels running perpendicular to the edge in this video:
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- #24
Yes, the grind lines are perpendicular to the edge.
I wish I had known this before I grinded and grinded parallel to the edge :-(. At least I know for next time.
Frank
Frank
- Thread starter
- #26
Parallel is easier and faster - longer well guided strokes. Perpendicular is a real PITA, you have to keep the strokes straight. But that's the way to get a better result, closer to the factory look.
I have had great results removing light rust and patina from my kitchen knives using Simichrome Polish, I also use it on all of my mirror polished Honyaki knives after use to keep them looking nice. I suspect it would also work quite well on razors. It may take some time, and a bit of elbow grease, but it is minimally invasive, and should leave a nice finish. As a side note, it probably wont take out any deep pitting, but certainly will neutralize any active rust.
- Thread starter
- #28
Agreed, I really like Simichrome. And it does a good job on surface rust. Many have ruined a good blade by trying to scour out patina and pitting. I think they add character to a vintage blade and I am happy to leave them. Took me a while to get to that realization.
I’ve seen this video before but observed some things watching it again. Firstly it seems to be a Dovo manufacturing process and video. What I found confusing was the molten lead quench they described. To my knowledge only Thiers Issard have to access to molten lead quenching. You see molten lead gives off poisonous gasses and is banned in Europe, except Thiers.
Also the gentlemen performing the tasks is doing so without respiratory protection, so this could be a very old clip, maybe Dovo did have access to molten lead back in the day.
Anyone have some insight?
Also the only double concave grinding machine is a modern version of Mr ERN’s “Hexe” machine invented in 1890’s. Thanks Carl!
Also the gentlemen performing the tasks is doing so without respiratory protection, so this could be a very old clip, maybe Dovo did have access to molten lead back in the day.
Anyone have some insight?
Also the only double concave grinding machine is a modern version of Mr ERN’s “Hexe” machine invented in 1890’s. Thanks Carl!
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
I don't think the lead quench is the end all, be all. I would want to follow right away with a warm oil quench, if I used the lead quench at all.
One nice thing is I could take the opportunity to cast some bullets, though.
- Thread starter
- #31
Reloading - another fine pastime! But certainly more time consuming than honing.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Not exactly reloading. Cap & ball revolvers is my latest thing. In fact just today I got a stainless steel Uberti 1858 Remington New Model Army in the mail to go with my blued Pietta 1858.
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