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Removing Old Pins?

Hi Guys,

I've just broken another set of scales (luckily quite boring black ones) whilst knocking out a pin from a vintage razor and I'm wondering if I'm doing it wrong?

I tend to file down the pin until flush with the scales then tap out with a small pin punch. Two sets of scales have been ruined so far though, luckily the scales were not good anyway, but for some, I just want to remove the blade, polish and refit in the original scales again with a new pin.

I remove the pin nearest the blade (not the one at the back holding the wedge).

Any advice greatly appreciated.
 
I broke a set of black scales to that I couldn't get clean when I sandpapered it, it would turn a milky brown color so I had no idea how to clean it haha
What I do now is sand it down then punch it through till I can loosen/take out the blade. Then clip the pin in half and the rest should go out he other side
I think when you file the head is still to wide for the pinhole so it snaps the hole going out the other side.

That is how I do it I am sure others have a better way haha
 
I use flush cutters. I used to break about half of the scales I was removing blades from. After buying flush cutters, it's probably one in twenty.
 
You're breaking scales because the pin expands/swells out even below the collar/washer when peened and because they get bent. If you try forcing a bent or swollen pin through the scales, you crack or break as you have already experienced. Try drilling them out with a drill press. Flush cutters work also, but they have a tendency to scuff up the scales and or break and mangle scales occasionally.

Just tap the pin out, if you have to force it, then you'll risk breaking something. You should be able to push the pin out with your fingers using the punch. Bent pins require finesse, you must push them out a tiny bit and then cut, then tap the other way and cut, eventually you'll push out a little nub.
 
I usually polish the top of the pin down with a dremel cutoff wheel (slowly - it will heat up if you try to do it all in one swell foop). Then, I put the pinned scales on a stack of 1/4" fender washers that I've glued together with the pin in the center. A 3/16 hole drilled in a block of hard wood would work, too. That supports the scales so they don't crack - most of the force is supported all around the pin area. If you just hang the scales over an edge and tap the pin, the chances of breaking are pretty high.

I've been doing a lot of GD scales and am getting pretty good at them - the pins are too hard to drill out. If your pins are softer and you want to try the drilling technique, then you need to score the head of the pin if it is round. If not, the drill will simply skid to the side in most cases. If using the drill press, use a high speed and lower the drill very slowly. Let the point auger into the pin without forcing it. I have, on one or two occasions, used the Dremel on high speed and simply let the drill eat its way into the pin by holding it very lightly on the same spot. Again, if you put any force on it, the drill will skitter or just bend to the side and you'll have an extra hole in the scales.
 
Flush cutter and small file. Cut peened end and file the edge a little and it should work out. If it is swollen or bent then a small amount of drilling may be required.
 
Here's a pro-tip for using a drill press to drill out pins: Chuck the drill bit so that only about 1/2" is protruding from the chuck; this will eliminate the bit from flexing off the pin.

Ivory can be safely unpinned, but you must drill them out for best results.
 
Here's a pro-tip for using a drill press to drill out pins: Chuck the drill bit so that only about 1/2" is protruding from the chuck; this will eliminate the bit from flexing off the pin.

Ivory can be safely unpinned, but you must drill them out for best results.
True but its not a task for a novice.
 
Here's a pro-tip for using a drill press to drill out pins: Chuck the drill bit so that only about 1/2" is protruding from the chuck; this will eliminate the bit from flexing off the pin.

Ivory can be safely unpinned, but you must drill them out for best results.
That how I have done it-and I am far from a pro, just a guy with tools.
 
You can file the heads off both heads. More often than not, I see that the pin either bent or expanded. So you need to file the head off each side and spread the scales apart and remove the center pin from the middle. Once you get one head off, you can pull one scale and rotate it away, then pull the pin out of the other scale with a pair of pliers. Only thing I've done was to scratch the scale from sloppy filing....but I could've prevented it by duct taping the scale.
 
Wow, thanks guys, plenty of tips there. I'll give some a go on some of my razors with less then perfect scales.

Best Wishes

Dave
 
Yup to all the above. I've done ivory on several occasions and let me tell you , I was on the edge of my seat during the whole process. I've recently had a run on saving old scales and my go to method is now to just drill them out. I've had too many break because of bent pins,, peening still there etc. and the drift to get them out along with the hammering can be too much for some old brittle scales. I file the end flush, put a small divot for the bit to start in and go from there.
Then too,, after all that, don't I go and break a set reinstalling them. Those are the breaks. But I will say,, black Horn looks much better than the original plastic I broke.
 
it is a tough deal sometimes, usually the brass rod is flared even under the washer, so a flush cut wont work, if you try pushing the pin in it will split the scales, i lost a good scale that way , , if after a flush cut the scales wont separate by prying apart chance are you will need to drill/hollow out and weaken the pin to realease it from the scales------If one want to keep the present scales, if you are planing one rescaling. just flush cut the crud out of it
 
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