Would this be a reliable source/grit of CrOx for razors?
Reliable CrOx grit for razors?
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I would recommend this source:
Chrome Oxide Green Pigments | Kremer Pigments Inc. Online Shop
Chrome Oxide Green cool green, opaque
+1I would recommend this source:
Chrome Oxide Green Pigments | Kremer Pigments Inc. Online Shop
Chrome Oxide Green cool green, opaqueshop.kremerpigments.com
I would recommend this source:
Chrome Oxide Green Pigments | Kremer Pigments Inc. Online Shop
Chrome Oxide Green cool green, opaque
That dissolves well in alcohol, in case you should be inclined to use it.
It's 0.3 microns, which is what I like about it.
I don't regularly use CrOx, but I got a small quantity from Maggards that was inexpensive and I believe of high quality.
Yes, if what is stated in the fine print “About this item” is true.
This compound is micro fine with a 0.5 micron particle size and will produce an edge equivalent to 60,000 grit. Chromium Oxide (Cr2O3) is a superfine, polycrystalline abrasive, it is the mineral that gives green polishing compound it’s color. 100% made in the USA from 100% pure chromium oxide.
I buy Chromium Oxide from Kramer Pigments, pure 100% Chrome Oxide powder.
This compound is micro fine with a 0.5 micron particle size and will produce an edge equivalent to 60,000 grit. Chromium Oxide (Cr2O3) is a superfine, polycrystalline abrasive, it is the mineral that gives green polishing compound it’s color. 100% made in the USA from 100% pure chromium oxide.
I buy Chromium Oxide from Kramer Pigments, pure 100% Chrome Oxide powder.
When you purchase a green polishing stick, you have no idea what you are getting. You do not know if it is CrOX or a mixture with some other abrasive. You also have no idea what the micron size of the CrOX might be. While that may not be important for polishing the scratches out of various items, when you are trying to polish the edge of your straight razor, it is best to know what abrasive you are using. Yes, a high quality abrasive might cost a little more, but your face will thank you. A little paste will last you a long time, so invest wisely.
Diamond paste is more reliable regarding the grit consistency. 0.5
micron would be the closest and is available on Amazon in syringe. A very little goes a long way.
micron would be the closest and is available on Amazon in syringe. A very little goes a long way.
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The reason I ask is that I have both the taytools CrOx bar https://www.amazon.com/Taytools-Chromium-Stropping-Polishing-Compound/dp/B07WVVK9NR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=chromium+oxide&qid=1639391372&sr=8-5&th=1. and a jar of Maggards chromium oxide paste which I would trust more, but I want to apply it to a canvas strop and the bar would be easier to apply (like a crayon) versus trying to rub a wet paste on the canvas.
I found diamond and CBN pastes a more comfortable face feel than CrOx/FeOx, but both used on balsa. I’ve never loaded up a strop component. The .1 diamond on balsa is super smooth compared to a .5, .3, .25 finish in any media. I gave up on .5 and lower long ago for feeling harsh until I tried Slash’s .1 prepped blades. It’s an impressive difference.
just food for thought.
just food for thought.
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- #11
I have .1 micron FeOx, not sure if that would have the same effect?
well, goes back to what I said about diamond/CBN feeling smoother than either, but my experience was all of it on balsa, not a hanging strop. So… I guess you’ll have to see what you like.
Shave Nation has the CrOx bar you're looking for. I bought mine from them, and used it the same way. Works great
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If TayTools chromox bar is composed as they say (100% CrOx) it should be fine. The only way to be sure would be to have the MSDS however. There are lots of chromox bars/green rouge bars out there that have aluminum oxide mixed in as well as larger particle size distributions; which doesn’t matter so much on a soft unstitched buffing wheel but isn’t so great for stropping a razor. I think getting something like the Kremer Pigments stuff or something similar and mixing it with alcohol is a better way to go, it’ll actually embed better in the strop rather than floating on top in the hard, waxy binder. You don’t really want a layer sitting on top of the strop.
