Relationship between Blade and Razor

[Johnny19]

Ok I've been DE shaving for a week now, and I've got to ask this question....... I thought at first it didn't matter too much which actual DE Razor You used, it's all about the blade surely? I was wondering why Guys were saying that this, and that particular model gave a great shave, and I was thinking, well surely its about the blade doing the work.?
My question is.....do the razors themselves seat the blade at a particular angle or position? I get that the adjustable ones do obviously.
Do different blades work well with different razor models? Can cheaper models do just a good a job as more expensive ones?
I hope this question makes sense, as it was hard to put it into words. I'm trying to say that it seems every model is very different!

 

[Raven Koenes]

Ok I've been DE shaving for a week now, and I've got to ask this question....... I thought at first it didn't matter too much which actual DE Razor You used, it's all about the blade surely? I was wondering why Guys were saying that this, and that particular model gave a great shave, and I was thinking, well surely its about the blade doing the work.?
My question is.....do the razors themselves seat the blade at a particular angle or position? I get that the adjustable ones do obviously.
Do different blades work well with different razor models? Can cheaper models do just a good a job as more expensive ones?
I hope this question makes sense, as it was hard to put it into words. I'm trying to say that it seems every model is very different!

I have found with DE Razors, and wet shaving in general, that the more money you pay the better it is does not hold true. I'm sure we will hear from the more you pay the better it is crowd shortly lol. The way a blade behaves differently in different razors is due to things like gap, no gap, exposure, angle, rigidity, and weight.

 

[Johnny19]

I have found with DE Razors, and wet shaving in general, that the more money you pay the better it is does not hold true. I'm sure we will hear from the more you pay the better it is crowd shortly lol. The way a blade behaves differently in different razors is due to things like gap, no gap, exposure, angle, rigidity, and weight.

I'm finding that a £20 Gillette will get just as good a review as a £100 Mulhe say? I suppose its about finding a middle ground, and what works for You. I just want a decent enjoyable shave without a huge price tag.

 

[Raven Koenes]

I'm finding that a £20 Gillette will get just as good a review as a £100 Mulhe say? I suppose its about finding a middle ground, and what works for You. I just want a decent enjoyable shave without a huge price tag.

Yup, and if you can get an Edwin Jagger cheaper than a Muhle it's the same razor.

 

[RayClem]

DE razors vary in their geometry and construction. Inexpensive razors are generally often made of plated Zamak, a zinc alloy. The chrome or nickel plating protects the Zamak for a while, but eventually, there will be corrosion with the threads normally being the first thing to go.

A step up in construction. is plated brass. The reason so many Gillette razors from the early 1900s are still in use today is that they were plated brass, which is far more resistant to corrosion that Zamak.

Higher end razors are often made from brass, bronze, aluminum, stainless steel or titanium. Some are cast metal while the most expensive are CNC precision machined.

The construction of the razor primarily affects the durability of the razor. A high end razor should last a lifetime and beyond. An inexpensive razor may last a few years. If you drop a Zamak razor on a tile floor, it is likely to break.

As far as the geometry of the razor, there are a number of factors. Some razors are three piece. That means they have a separate cap, base plate and handle. The cap and base plate are collectively called the head. Often you can interchange handle and heads among razors.

Some razors are two piece. That means the handle is permanently attached to the base plate and the cap is removable to replace the blade.

The third type of razor is sometimes called a butterfly razor or TTO which stands for twist to open. This type of razor has a split cap that opens like butterfly wings to allow easy replacement of the blade. The doors open and close by twisting the knob at the bottom of the handle. If you have one of these razors be careful that you keep the doors closed tightly. One of the worst cuts I ever had shaving occurred when the doors loosed just enough to allow movement of the blade. Ouch! Because these razors have moving parts, there can be maintenance issues.

The bottom plate of the razor contains ablade guard. These can either be solid bars, scaloped bars or open-slotted combs. It is probably best to gain some experience before trying an open comb razor.

The part that affects your shave the most, however, is the geometry of the head and how it presents the edge of the blade to your skin for beard removal. The two primary metrics discussed are blade gap and blade exposure. Although less discussed, the degree of curvature of the blade within the head also affects your shave. It is just harder to quantify.

Blade gap is the measurement in mm between the edge of the blade and the blade guard at the point it contacts your skin. In general, the greater the blade gap, the more aggressive the razor, but there are exceptions.

If you draw a line between the point where the top cap contacts your face and the point where the blade guard contacts your face, the edge of the blade can be either inside or outside that line. If the blade is inside that line, the blade gap is said to be negative. This will result in a mild razor. If the edge of the blade resides outside that line, the blade exposure is positive and the razor becomes more aggressive. If the edge exactly on the line, the blade exposure is said to be neutral.

To give you an example of the range of aggressiveness, Karve Razor sells CNC machined razors. All their razors use the same top cap, but they sell interchangeable base plates that vary in aggressiveness. Rockwell sells their 6C and 6S razors that have a similar system of base plates. I am not recommending these razors, but am using them as an example of variations in aggressiveness due to head geometry.

The Karve AA plate produces a blade gap of 0..47mm and a negative blade exposure of 0.07 mm. This would provide a very mild shave.

The Karve B plate produces a blade gap of 0.73 mm and a neutral blade exposure.

The Karve D plats produces a blade gap of 0.98 mm and a positive blade exposure of 0.13mm. Due to the combination of blade gap and blade exposure, this is starting to be moderately aggressive, but not severely so. I have one of these razors.

The Karve F plate produces a blade gap of 1.23 mm and a blade exposure of 0.23 mm. This is a fairly aggressive razor.

The most aggressive Karve is the G plate with a blade gap of 1.36mm and a blade exposure of 0.25mm. This would be too aggressive for most folks., certainly a new shaver.

Many razor makers do not provide any information on the head design. Those that do often only list blade gap. Since aggressiveness is affected by things other than blade gap, you cannot compare the razors made by one company to the razors made by another using blade gap alone.

As a new shaver, I suggest you start with a relatively mild razor and develop your shaving technique. Then you will be in a position to explore other razors that might help you remove your beard more effectively.

Razor blades come in a wide range of sharpness levels. If you are young and have a thin beard, you can use less sharp blades and still get a good shave. I have an old-man, white beard that is very coarse and requires very sharp blade. When I use a mild razor, I want to use the very sharpest blades in that razor. If I am using an aggressive razor, those very sharp blades are too sharp and I experience irritation, so I will use a less sharp blade in an aggressive razor. You have to find which blades work best for you in your razors. I suggest you purchase a sampler pack containing about a dozen tucks of blades ranging from less sharp (like Derby Extra) to extremely sharp (like Feather) to see which sharpness level works best for you. Some companies sell sampler packs with only one or two blade of each brand. Although more expensive, purchasing 5 blade packs of each brand will give you more experience with each blade.

If there is any way I can be of help, please let me know.

 

[KrstGor]

Hard to add much after @RayClem so professionally summarized it.

My only addition would be that the best combo for someone starting this hobby IMHO would be a "mild" razor paired with an ultra-sharp blade. It won't cut you and the easiness of shaving will be improved.

As to a concrete recommendation, I'm kind of a "buy once, cry once" guy and a Feather fan, so as expensive as it is, I couldn't recommend a better DE razor than a Feather AS-D2 paired with the Feather blades.

I usually link this YT video, to demonstrate the level of "abuse" you can put on your face and still get perfect, irritation free shave. (And NO, I would never suggest to shave like Kevy)

Certainly there are many razors that cost a fraction of the price of AS-D2, but the Q is are you prepared to buy 15-20 different razors to find the one and eventually conclude that nothing beats the real thing.

Hope it helps, cheers!

 

[Johnny19]

Thanks guys I'm starting to Understand, and I watch Kevy's channel too. Thanks RayClem for the explanation that was a good read.
I have a Merkar Futur on the way, so i can try the settings, plus it's quality for a decent price.
Thank You all again, I am beginning to get it.

 

[Sotiris_A]

As @RayClem and @KrstGor already suggested, a mild razor is a great tool to learn proper technique. I guess you already have one. IME it is better to stick to one setup for a while and you will soon be able to get "decent enjoyable shaves" repeatedly. Switching gear, including settings to an adjustable, frequently tends to slow down the development of one's technique.

Once you already get nice shaves, you will be more able to appreciate differences like the ones described above by @Raven Koenes and @RayClem. It's a whole world ready to be discovered should you wish to.

Happy shaves!

 

[Johnny19]

As @RayClem and @KrstGor already suggested, a mild razor is a great tool to learn proper technique. I guess you already have one. IME it is better to stick to one setup for a while and you will soon be able to get "decent enjoyable shaves" repeatedly. Switching gear, including settings to an adjustable, frequently tends to slow down the development of one's technique.

Once you already get nice shaves, you will be more able to appreciate differences like the ones described above by @Raven Koenes and @RayClem. It's a whole world ready to be discovered should you wish to.

Happy shaves!

Yes I should do that really.....This week I have bought 3 different razors and tried 2. Funnily enough my first seemed to be the best!

 

[Sotiris_A]

Yes I should do that really.....This week I have bought 3 different razors and tried 2. Funnily enough my first seemed to be the best!

Stick to the one you like the best because using the same setup for a month or 3 can be boring.

Chase comfort and not perfection. Better results come naturally.

Prepare your stubble well, create some good lather and once you think it is ok, add a bit more water as most of us tend to create dry lathers in the beginning.

Mind the pressure and the angle.

Last but not least, start with less passes at first and avoid overshaving. If you feel any discomfort, stop.

 

[Ron R]

@RayClem explains very well and it might be a little confusing with blade gabs and exposures so I will leave a chart that was designed by a B&B fellow @ShavingByTheNumbers who did a excellent job of razor description.

Have some great shaves! Stay & think safe in these times!

 

[Mike M]

I completely agree with @Sotiris_A the important thing is to concentrate on comfort. To start with limit your razor choice as technique is more important than anything else.
As you shave learn which direction the hair on your face grows and the direction you need to shave to give a close comfortable shave. For example the hair on either side of my neck needs to be shaved with a slight down angle in my ATG pass to get the best results.
Something to bear in mind is when you have a technique you are happy with the first thing to do is try different blades, they will have a great effect on the comfort of your shave and finding blades that work for you is important and just because a blade works in one razor does not mean it will work for you in every razor.

Happy shaving

 

[KrstGor]

Thanks guys I'm starting to Understand, and I watch Kevy's channel too. Thanks RayClem for the explanation that was a good read.
I have a Merkar Futur on the way, so i can try the settings, plus it's quality for a decent price.
Thank You all again, I am beginning to get it.

I watch him too, as he's a funny guy and I enjoy his accent, jokes, stories and how he describes scents of various soaps he reviews.

That said, he's a HORRIBLE shaver, what he does hurts watching with all those countless over-passes. In that video above I counted at one instance he goes over the same spot 17 times and he really drills the razor into his face, so much pressure. He's blessed to have a skin like an aligator, otherwise he'd be all cut and bruised.

 

[aldomarino]

The razor itself definitely seems to matter (to me) at any rate. Weight, balance, grip, etc, all play a role.

I tend to favor particularly aggressive razors which leave a lot of the blade showing, and pair that with a fairly mild blade. This week, I'm using a Gilette Red Tip with a Supermax SS blade and getting great results.

Your mileage not might vary, but will vary. To each their own.

 

[Bunkdo]

Given you have multiple razors and an adjustable, do take note of which blades are the most comfortable during a shave on which razors (same with the settings on the Futur).

Once my hair had gotten thicker and I couldn't get comfortable shaves with everything, the thing that took me the longest to nail down are blades (as I believed the opposite, it's all about the razor and not the blades). One blade that works really well on one razor, can possibly not work at all on another. Even if both razors are of the same/similar aggressiveness. Though, naturally there should be a trend -- if a mild blade on an aggressive razor works well for you, it'll likely be the case for any other aggressive razor. It's all YMMV and it hasn't been the case for me.

 

[Johnny19]

Given you have multiple razors and an adjustable, do take note of which blades are the most comfortable during a shave on which razors (same with the settings on the Futur).

Once my hair had gotten thicker and I couldn't get comfortable shaves with everything, the thing that took me the longest to nail down are blades (as I believed the opposite, it's all about the razor and not the blades). One blade that works really well on one razor, can possibly not work at all on another. Even if both razors are of the same/similar aggressiveness. Though, naturally there should be a trend -- if a mild blade on an aggressive razor works well for you, it'll likely be the case for any other aggressive razor. It's all YMMV and it hasn't been the case for me.

I'm 57 so my growth is pretty fast and quite thick. I'm hoping that shaving every other day, as opposed to everyday will make a difference.
I'm not sure about the myth that the more You shave the faster it grows.....

 

[stoof2010]

Yes I should do that really.....This week I have bought 3 different razors and tried 2. Funnily enough my first seemed to be the best!

Probably because you used it most.
Takes time to get used to a razor.
That's why it's suggested to stay with one.
As your technique improves, you'll quickly adapt to new razors
But they are all a little different.

 

[Atlantic59]

I'm finding that a £20 Gillette will get just as good a review as a £100 Mulhe say? I suppose its about finding a middle ground, and what works for You. I just want a decent enjoyable shave without a huge price tag.

There are many razors that will give you a nice shave without a high price tag. I'll list a few suggestions, but there are too many to list:

• Gillette Tech, early model, vintage all brass, fat handle - $10-15
• Fatip Piccolo, nickel plated all brass - $20
• Fatip Lo Storto Originale, chrome plated all brass - $30-35
• Razorock German 37, chrome plated zamak head with stainless steel handle - $20

 

[Bunkdo]

I'm 57 so my growth is pretty fast and quite thick. I'm hoping that shaving every other day, as opposed to everyday will make a difference.
I'm not sure about the myth that the more You shave the faster it grows.....

The way I see it, is that hair grows faster initially, but the longer it is, the more it slows down. Though I think this is what sparked that myth, as the longer the hair, the less people notice the growth.

I also have naturally thick hair and oily skin. My personal preference is to shave every other day too -- I feel like it works for me and I can take my time with shaving. Though it's all YMMV and it's never bad to experiment.

I found that mild razors, like a Gillette Tech, work excellent for me along a sharp blade. With that combo, I honestly never even feel the blade on my skin and it deals with my whiskers efficiently -- especially because I never go over the same spots without lather due to sensitive skin. Though all sharp blades are not the same for me, Perma-Sharps or Rapira Platinums for example don't really do well with my current razors, though Astra Greens and Bic Platinums are brilliant. Smooth blades like Derbys, Dorcos or Sharks don't work for me at all, but for some, they're excellent.

Thus keeping track of what combos gave you best shaves and having samplers is excellent. But like others have mentioned, you probably should stick to one razor first, so you're very familiar with it and you'll get to know what blades work for you. My rule for trying out something different, is to just change one variable at a time -- for example, if I want to try out a new blade, I stick it into a razor I'm very familiar with and use soap I'm used to.

 

[BigJ]

Great responses above!

My summary is, ‘Yes indeed!’

For me a new razor means that I need to revisit my blade options to determine the best fit for that razor!