I got a lowborn brush a while ago and love it. The original synthetic know was removed and replaced with a TGN either 2band or silvertip I really dont know. I love the knot that is in this brush. However, after going through many many pictures on lowborn site on facebook I found it. It was originally made june of 17. The sealer on the brush has pretty much worn off and I wanted to fix that. Is there a way to re seal it without removing the knot or damaging the knot? I've attached pics of the brush in question.
Re sealing a wood brush
- Thread starter Suhrim21
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It looks like it had a oil of some sort
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Posted
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This is the pic on the site from when it was originally made
That's a silvertip knot and it looks great on that handle.
I use a water base polyurethane to seal my wood handles. Apply it with an artist brush and use thin coats. A triple coat should work well. With a small brush you should have no trouble staying out of the knot. I prefer the end result to super glue.
I use a water base polyurethane to seal my wood handles. Apply it with an artist brush and use thin coats. A triple coat should work well. With a small brush you should have no trouble staying out of the knot. I prefer the end result to super glue.
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Would blue painters tape damage the knot? I really want to lightly sand to bring back the luster and seal it but dont want to damage the knot. I really have no idea what I'm doing but I just want to make the brush look as gorgeous as it first did.
If you sand it use a very fine paper, and hit it first with some cellulose.
Personally I'd hit it with some satin polyurethane.
Personally I'd hit it with some satin polyurethane.
Some do that. I personally wouldn't.
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Can you give a link to the cellulose I have no idea what it is. Also what would the satin poly do?
What would be the best way to protect the knot while sanding. could I wrap it with paper then tape?
That should work. I have been able to sand and refinish wood brushes without protecting the knot. Sanding should be gentle and you don't have to get completely up to the hair during sanding or applying the finish. Just very close.
Although not the question intended for me, a satin finish is not as shinny. It depends on your taste. Personally I like a somewhat shinny wood handle.
His website says the handles are finished with marine grade epoxy resin, if that helps any.
Satin is about 40% luster and Semi-gloss is about 50-60, and glossy is about 70%. Most people when they prefer a "gloss" finish actually prefer a semi-gloss. Gloss is like mirror reflective shiny.
I think satin would look nice because you wouldn't be able to see yourself in it but it would still catch the light.
I think satin would look nice because you wouldn't be able to see yourself in it but it would still catch the light.
I would just oil it myself, but I kinda like a more natural, used look. After 10 years of regular use, it would be a masterpiece in my book.
If it's marine grade epoxy you might try buffing it.
I’d try that first, also.
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Ok so buff it with microfiber cloth?
Would food grade mineral oil work.
I'm not wanting it glossy. What I am trying to achieve is one protecting the wood so it lasts for generations and two bringing out the beautiful natural color of the wood.
Mineral oil is a good finish, but it may need several coats, rubbed on with an old cotton rag. After a few coats, the wood won't absorb any more oil. One big advantage of mineral oil is that is very easy to renew the finish. Disadvantages are that mineral oil may darken the wood somewhat and it is not as durable as some others.
A finish often used on cutting boards, wooden bowls and the like is a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax.
Many, many years ago I stripped and refinished a vintage drum set. Based on my experience, what I am seeing and what others are saying, I would try:
1. Use fine steel wool to clean and prepare the surface
2. Wipe all dust off with a dry cloth or blow the handle with a hair dryer on cool.
3. Apply about 3 coats of satin polyurethane with a dry, clean cloth - like a piece of old t-shirt. You don’t want to glop it on. Multiple thin coats equals great finish.
4. Follow the directions to let it dry between coats.
This should leave a clean look with no glopping.
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1. Use fine steel wool to clean and prepare the surface
2. Wipe all dust off with a dry cloth or blow the handle with a hair dryer on cool.
3. Apply about 3 coats of satin polyurethane with a dry, clean cloth - like a piece of old t-shirt. You don’t want to glop it on. Multiple thin coats equals great finish.
4. Follow the directions to let it dry between coats.
This should leave a clean look with no glopping.
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That sounds like the best approach to me. I would only suggest you use painter’s tape around the base of the knot.
It's hard to imagine an oil finish penetrating the marine grade epoxy finish used originally.
Poly - even satin - reminds me of plastic (imagine that). I wouldn't use that on a brush handle, but many would. It's a look and it works, it's just not my look - and if you don't like the result you're pretty much screwed.
It would probably be good to remember that at this point you're finishing the finish, not the wood.
If I were inclined to add to the finish I would use a couple of thin coats of Liberon Black Bison Paste Wax, Walnut. I don't think you need to do any more prep work than clean the handle. I'd rub on a thin coat using 0000 steel wool as an applicator and let it dry before buffing with a microfiber cloth. If it looks and feels good you can apply the second coat with just a cloth.
Poly - even satin - reminds me of plastic (imagine that). I wouldn't use that on a brush handle, but many would. It's a look and it works, it's just not my look - and if you don't like the result you're pretty much screwed.
It would probably be good to remember that at this point you're finishing the finish, not the wood.
If I were inclined to add to the finish I would use a couple of thin coats of Liberon Black Bison Paste Wax, Walnut. I don't think you need to do any more prep work than clean the handle. I'd rub on a thin coat using 0000 steel wool as an applicator and let it dry before buffing with a microfiber cloth. If it looks and feels good you can apply the second coat with just a cloth.
