Razor Burn or nicks/Cuts?

[binarylegit]

I've wet shaved with basic Merkur closed comb DE safety razor for years. I recently decided to buy a Henson AL13 Medium razor since it was supposed to be better for sensitive skin. I got a medium because I only shave once a week so I figured I would need a more aggressive shave.

I regularly nick myself and get little cuts (especially around my adams apple) with the Merkur. While I haven't gotten any cuts with the Henson it does give me slight razor burn afterward. I was wondering between the two problems if one issue is a better end result (though neither is perfect), nicks/cuts or razor burn?

I'm not an expert at all so maybe some of this could be solved with a different blade (I use Astra's) or technique?

 

[Ron R]

A few things that come to mind when reading your post is possibly to much pressure on the razor and over shaving or buffing.
Also you could try a little Aloe Vera gel just before applying the lather could help a little!

 

[JimmyCB]

I've wet shaved with basic Merkur closed comb DE safety razor for years. I recently decided to buy a Henson AL13 Medium razor since it was supposed to be better for sensitive skin. I got a medium because I only shave once a week so I figured I would need a more aggressive shave.

I regularly nick myself and get little cuts (especially around my adams apple) with the Merkur. While I haven't gotten any cuts with the Henson it does give me slight razor burn afterward. I was wondering between the two problems if one issue is a better end result (though neither is perfect), nicks/cuts or razor burn?

I'm not an expert at all so maybe some of this could be solved with a different blade (I use Astra's) or technique?

As always, YMMV, but here's some suggestions. Apply the absolute lowest pressure on your razor as you can when you shave. Many people coming from light plastic multi blade razors are used to applying a lot of pressure. Safety razors as a class are much heavier and don't require anywhere as much pressure to get a good shave. From my experience, technique is more important than the razor or blade you use in avoiding nicks and getting a good shave. Also, try one of the widely available pre shave lotions. I like Proraso's pre shave lotion, but there are lots of brands out there. Good luck.

 

[APBinNCA]

Not to take away from the helpful suggestions above, but razor burn with a Henson is too steep of an angle. You need to follow the built in angle, watching it carefully at first(literally looking closely while shaving). Even leaning more toward the cap if necessary, the blade will just lift at a certain point which is harmless. The design of the safety bar and the angle of the blade create this problem where your skin can get underneath the blade if a steep angle is attempted. The medium will serve you well once mastered, good luck.

 

[thombrogan]

Thank you for joining Badger & Blade, @binarylegit !

I’m hoping you’ll apply the advice of the other people in this post and let us know if you’re able to use it reduce razor burn and laryngeal mischief.

 

[Old Navy_1]

What blades are you using. Have you tried a few different brands? Some blade/razor combos just don't work.

I'm not familiar with your razor, so I really can't provide much help.

I also suggest using a pre-shave. I love Proraso Pre-Shave, Eucalyptus and Menthol. I really helps.

b/r

ON_1

 

[spacemonkey42]

Great advice above @binarylegit. Take all that in and see if it helps.

I love my Hensons and highly recommend them. I did get a tiny bit of irritation when I moved up to a sharper blade because I was going over areas multiple times. The duller blade let me do that, while a sharper blade did not. Going back to the sage advice of - when the soap is gone, move on - stopped any irritation. I get an exceptional shave in three-passes.

Also, coming from a heavier razor may have you unintentionally applying pressure with the Henson. It is still a safety razor. I learned that the less pressure I applied, the better the shave. Get a thin and slick lather, apply nearly no pressure, only go over each area once, and the Henson will reward you with a terrific shave!

You got this, @binarylegit!

 

[desertcat]

Merkur closed comb DE safety razor

I too shaved with the Merkur34C for quite some time, and found it somewhat difficult to adjust to other razors at first. @mgweatherly posted a photo in my shave journal that shows the Merkur actually has negative blade exposure, such that it makes for very narrow effective angles and perhaps "rewards" a slightly heavier hand. As others said, approach the Henson with delicate pressure, tend toward the cap and you should have less blade irritation.

 

[Mitzie]

For me coconut oil as a preshave provides the ultimate protection and 'cushioning.'

 

[CANES]

I think the key here is the once a week deal. I would have a heck of a hard time shaving once a week with any DE razor. I would need to use electric trimmers first. Do you do that?

I get irritation easily. I would imagine that shaving a week old growth without trimming first would cause a lot of pulling and tugging. That would easily cause razor burn for me.

 

[Eric_75]

Welcome to B & B @binarylegit

Some excellent advice above. Keep at it and you'll get it, sir!

 

[Andris83]

all of the above, but I would even take another step back:
how is your beard? I'm pretty sure no DE razor could shave me after a week, or at least it wouldn't be nice.
If you have any kind of "normal" growth (i.e. not very light), I doubt the Hanson is the right tool for the job.

How is your prep? (hot shower? what soap, brush, etc...).

 

[BigJ]

Great advice above!

I would add that it is useful to map your beard to understand precisely what you are doing with each pass.
Then, minimize pressure and maintain an optimal razor angle.

 

[NickCutlip]

Welcome to the forum !!

 

[binarylegit]

Thanks for all the advice above! I'll definitely take that into consideration and try and report back.

Can someone help me understand what a pass is? I've seen that terminology but I don't understand it. I usually go over the same spot 2 times with the Merkur and 4-5 with the Henson without re-applying shaving cream. Is that what a pass is? The number of times going over the same spot is probably mostly because I only shave once a week... and maybe contributes to the razor burn with the Henson.

Andris83: I take a hot shower before I shave and wet my face before applying cream. I use Edwin Jagger Aloe Vera shaving cream with a Vulfix Pure Badger shaving brush which soaks for a minute in warm water before I lather the cream on my face.

 

[spacemonkey42]

Can someone help me understand what a pass is? I've seen that terminology but I don't understand it. I usually go over the same spot 2 times with the Merkur and 4-5 with the Henson without re-applying shaving cream. Is that what a pass is? The number of times going over the same spot is probably mostly because I only shave once a week... and maybe contributes to the razor burn with the Henson.

Oh my gosh, @binarylegit, that would cause irritation for any of us! Follow the old slogan - once the lather is gone, move on!

A pass is this... Lather up, then shave with-the-grain, this is your first pass. Do not go over a spot multiple times, once you have removed the soap, then it is done. Then you rinse and re-apply lather. Then take a pass across-the-grain, your second pass. Again, just remove the lather, then move on. Do not go over an area multiple times. Then, if you want, you can lather up and take another pass - some take a second across-the-grain, others take a pass against-the-grain. It is up to you. But don't go over the same area multiple times, that is a near guarantee for irritation!

This also assumes you have mapped out your grain - the direction of beard growth for all areas of your face.

Please let us know if this makes sense. Folks here are incredibly helpful. They helped me and we all are here to help you!

 

[nickm]

Merkur should not be causing cuts ever. Try switching to a Derby Extra or Rapira. A super mild Russian blade would solve a lot of your problems.

Your prep also should be considered. I literally used two hot towels last Sunday. Heated up a scuttle. Lathered with a third hot towel. Wiped it all off. And then proceeded to lather after 20-30 minutes.

The old shavers would say to use tallow. It has a lot of cushion and thicker lather though TIME is what needs to be added to make your whiskers fat, plump and easier to shave. A preshave oil also can aid in facial hair softening. Don’t rush it, give it plenty of time, at least 20 minutes.

For the neck area you can grab your skin and shift it to the side if your Adams apple protrudes. It works though I’ve never had that problem.

Try buying another Merkur with a shorter handle and known good NIB head. Who knows if you damaged or dropped it.

 

[Frag_Out]

I have a very rough beard but I can take a week of growth down with a double open comb (DOC) head. They can be found online between 7 and 15 bucks. They're mild and leave lather on your face between passes. After nailing down your lather technique and trying some other blades if you're still only shaving once a week I'd look into the DOC

 

[Guido75]

Based on your last entry the first thing to look at is your shaving routine and especially the lathering up part (see the reply by @spacemonkey42). Second I would check your growth after a week as @CANES suggested - if that is ‘serious’ growth I would be inclined to move to an open comb to ease the shave. But only after making sure the routine is in place first. And third what @APBinNCA said about the Henson - he’s the Henson-pedia around here.

Oh yeah, the trap I fall into now and again: NO pressure!!

Enjoy your shaves!

Guido

 

[desertcat]

Geofatboy’s first video is always a good example (except for the speed, ignore that aspect) and you can see how he only applies the razor to skin that still has lather. Actual shaving starts at about 2:30