Today I was reflecting on personal lessons learned in wet shaving and upon gleaned B&B wisdom. I offer the following random thoughts, in no order of importance:
1. Don't be discouraged if your first few shaves aren't great. You are learning.
2A. Razor technique is everything. Use no pressure, try to maintain a 30 degree angle, and rinse the razor frequently.
2B: Courtesy of N2theBreech: ...Mapping the grain and keeping a stiff wrist are both important. The latter helps to develop smooth, consistent strokes. It also helps achieve that "no pressure" and "right angle" ...
2C: Courtesy of Face&Head: There are some modern razors (e.g. Feather AS & Pils 101) that require different angles. Listening can be the best way to to determine the optimum angle.
3. Don't be overly concerned with trying to achieve a BBS(Baby Butt Smooth) shave. A DFS (A Damn Fine Shave) or a SAS(Socially Acceptable Shave) is O.K.
4. Don't be concerned with too many passes right away. When starting out, it's O.K. to just do 2 WTG (With the Grain) passes and then touch up (buff) trouble spots. On my cheeks, I do one WTG and one XTG ( across the grain) pass. On my neck, I do one WTG and one ATG (against the grain) pass. Then, I buff a regular trouble spot on my chin. 80% of the time I achieve a DFS, and 20% of the time (when the stars and planets are aligned) I achieve a BBS. Your whiskers may be different and may ultimately need the three pass shave - WTG, XTG, ATG.
5. YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) - if a product or technique doesn't work for you, that's O.K. it doesn't work for you.
6. Continue to ask questions on B&B. No questions are dumb or stupid.
7. Continue to explore the tremendous amount of information on B&B.
8. Don't over tighten the razor head on your Edwin Jagger razor. As another B&B member stated, "It's not a lug nut on a tire."
9. Wet shaving investments need not be expensive. Colonel Conk shaving soaps, Mama Bears shaving soaps, Palmolive shaving sticks, Razorock soaps, Taylor of Old Bond Street (TOBS) creams are most affordable and excellent performers.
10. Blade samplers are great. Chances are if you are an engaged B&B member, other members will PIF (Pay it Forward) you some. Astra SP blades get a lot of love around here. I am often asked what my favorite blades are. They are Astra SP, Personna Labs, and Gillette 7o'clock Yellows...but your favorite blades might be different.
11. Be gentlemanly at all times and don't ask for PIF's.
12. When soaking your shaving brush before your shave, it's O.K. to only soak it 1/2 way to 2/3 up the bristles.
13. When you need some quiet time, experiment with creating lathers.
14. Lather making can be fun. Try two methods. The "Marco Method" is where you do not remove the excess water in your brush and you load your brush for 60 seconds with soap. Another method, involves gently squeezing the excess water out of your brush, then loading soap for 45-60 seconds, but adding a few drops of water every 15 seconds to your brush. For "stubborn" soaps, I use the Marco Method. More often than not, I use the second method. It's always easier to add in more water than to take it out.
15. If you make a mistake in buying a product that doesn't work for you, consider selling it or trading it on the BST (Buy Sell Trade) forum when you're eligible.
16. Check the BST Forum regularly for good deals.
17. There are several excellent vendors out there where you can buy products from - West Coast Shaving, Razorbladesandmore, Bullgoose Shaving, Italian Barber, Lees Safety Razors, Shoebox Shave Shop, Vintage Blades LLC just to name a few.
18. Several vendors offer free shipping over a certain $ amount and/or discounts. Check the wiki for discount codes.
19. Be sure to rinse your shaving brush after use and hang it upside down to dry out. Don't store a wet brush in a drawer or closet.
20. An alum stick or alum bar can be your friend. I use my Razorock alum stick 100 % of the time. It helps to close your pores, seal any nicks, and serves as an overall antiseptic. After you rinse with warm water, then cold water, apply the alum to your face. It may slightly sting. Leave it on for a few minutes then rinse with cold water. Dry your face. Then use an aftershave or balm. I much prefer balms. Easily absorbed and conditions your skin.
21. When your razor blade begins tugging a lot, it's time for a blade change.Blades are inexpensive don't try to push it. Once again, YMMV. I tend to automatically change my blades after the 2nd or 3rd shave.
22. Create a safe place (especially if you have kids/pets) to store your new and used blades.
23. Some brushes comes with free acrylic stands. Acrylic brush stands are inexpensive- usually around $5 and come in different colors.
24. Countertop toothbrush holders can serve as an affordable stand for your razor(s).
25. Soap and cream samplers are a good way to test soaps and creams. I urge you to purchase the Truefitt and Hill sampler for $8.50 after discount, the discount code is BB12, which yields you a 15% discount.
26. Not all shaving brushes are equal. Silvertip badger is very luxurious and retains water for you. Soft on your face and easy to make a lather. Some folks like badger brushes with more stiffness (backbone) and will opt for best badger (a step down ) or a brush with a shorter bristle length (loft). Some folks will purchase an inexpensive Tweezerman pure badger brush to start out with.
27. Don't disqualify boar brushes. Yes, they do need a break in period. But I am here to say that the Semogue 1305 boar brush is the one I would save. A versatile performer with both soaps and creams and most affordable.
28. If you have a few soap pucks, no real need to keep them covered. You can use a coffee mug you have around the house to keep it in. If it's a larger soap puck, there are many larger bowls with a handle you can use. Bed, bath, and beyond has one in several colors for $4.99. The bowl is good to have anyways, if you are using shaving creams to create your lather.
29. If you are using shaving creams to create your lather, you only need a small dollop, especially if you have soft water in your house.
30. Many shaving soaps automatically (or for a small up charge) come in a plastic or wooden tub with a cover.
31. If you own many shaving soaps, keep them covered either in the tub it came in or in a plastic or glass tub with a cover.
32. Don't put the cover on a wet soap puck, let it dry out first.
33. Who are the 3 T's? Truefitt and Hill (T&H), Taylor of Old Bond Street(TOBS), and Trumpers, our friends across the pond from England. They make wonderful shaving soaps, creams, fragrances. My favorites are T&H, then TOBS ( more affordable).
34. Vulfix owns the more expensive Simpson brush line. Vulfix brushes are more affordable.
35. Wet shaving is a simple pleasure. We live in such a hurried pace, always rushing. Instead, it's so nice to take a few extra minutes shaving, enjoying the lather, the scent, and the overall experience. We can slow down time, just a few moments, and pamper ourselves. For me, I often reflect on earlier times with my late father. How he taught me to shave when I was 13. I feel in some ways, I'm honoring that time by traditional wet shaving.
36. Razors: There are so many to choose from. For newbies, the Edwin Jagger DE 89 series gets a lot of love. It comes in many handle variations - chrome, lined chrome, and barley chrome. Edwin Jagger razors have a wonderful chrome job and give a good shave. The Merkur HD 34 c gets a lot of love. The chrome job is not on the same level as the Edwin Jagger. Or, consider a vintage Gillette Superspeed TTO (twist to open, also known as a butterfly top). I'm not talking about the red tip or the blue tip Vintage Gillettes. Be careful when purchasing a vintage razor. Make sure the silo doors open and close properly and the razor is preferably free of brassing. If it needs a cleaning job, it can be done with a little TLC using a soft child's toothbrush, Dawn, Scrubbing Bubbles, and Maas Metal polish.
37. Courtesy of Hawkeyeted: I'd like to add something that is VERY important for new wet shavers: Management of change.
Consistency is everything; If you change something in your routine, change only ONE THING at a time. There is nothing more frustrating than chasing that BBS by changing soap and blade and razor, etc. all at the same time. It is much easier to isolate what is (or isn't) working if you change only one thing. Take a moment to analyze if you improved your shave or not. If you think it did, repeat it as much as possible in an effort to create your new baseline. Trust me. If you follow this advice, your shaves will only continue to get better and better
38. To Hawkeyeted's point, create a shaving journal with all of the variables. I use the software database/iPad app "Bento" where I track the date, days between shaving, razor, blade, brush, soap, after shave, alum, and a place for overall comments.
39. Courtesy of Face&Head: A sharp blade is your friend. Many cuts & nicks come from compensating for blades that aren't doing their job properly.
40. Courtesy of Face& Head: There are many adjustable razors on the market from vintage to modern. Technique is everything, start at a low setting and work your way up.
41. Courtesy of Topgumby: Facial hair is tough on edges. Gillette claims that dry beards are as tough as copper wire of the same diameter. Hydrating the beard makes it much easier to cut. To get water in, you have to strip away the oils that naturally occur. You do this by thoroughly washing the beard with soap and water, at least once and perhaps twice before lathering up. Soap and cream makers spend a lot of time and effort putting ingredients in their product that allow water to get in the hairs, "softening the beard". If you let your lather sit on the beard for two minutes before you start shaving, you'll maximize this effect. There are many, many posts here regarding proper prep, and many different theories and methods to achieve it. The above works for me. Some go further with hot towels, special products, different routines. Shaving right after a shower gives much of the same effect, as long as you don't let your beard dry out. Proper prep will make everything else easier. It increases the effective life of blades. It reduces irritation. It's been advocated by various blade, soap, razor and cream makers for decades, and many shavers still shrug, lather up and immediately have at it, then curse the blade, the lather, the razor, technique or unkind fate for poor results. Prep the beard.
42. Courtesy of sethleupagus: Proper prep makes a world of difference. In addition to showering, I wash my beard with glycerin soap once at the start of the shower, and once right before I step out. I face lather and let the lather sit for a while before I start shaving.
43. Courtesy of The Count of Merkur Cristo: Glycerine is great in (only 2-3 drops), the making of Uberlather (soap and cream combination)
44. Courtesy of The Count of Merkur Cristo: Although Clubman can be drying upon the face and body, the addition of about 10 drops of glycerine per 6oz bottle greatly increases the moisturizing and toning aspects and 'kicks' this aftershave-cologne 'up a notch'.
Please feel free to add to the list or contact me with any questions you may have.
1. Don't be discouraged if your first few shaves aren't great. You are learning.
2A. Razor technique is everything. Use no pressure, try to maintain a 30 degree angle, and rinse the razor frequently.
2B: Courtesy of N2theBreech: ...Mapping the grain and keeping a stiff wrist are both important. The latter helps to develop smooth, consistent strokes. It also helps achieve that "no pressure" and "right angle" ...
2C: Courtesy of Face&Head: There are some modern razors (e.g. Feather AS & Pils 101) that require different angles. Listening can be the best way to to determine the optimum angle.
3. Don't be overly concerned with trying to achieve a BBS(Baby Butt Smooth) shave. A DFS (A Damn Fine Shave) or a SAS(Socially Acceptable Shave) is O.K.
4. Don't be concerned with too many passes right away. When starting out, it's O.K. to just do 2 WTG (With the Grain) passes and then touch up (buff) trouble spots. On my cheeks, I do one WTG and one XTG ( across the grain) pass. On my neck, I do one WTG and one ATG (against the grain) pass. Then, I buff a regular trouble spot on my chin. 80% of the time I achieve a DFS, and 20% of the time (when the stars and planets are aligned) I achieve a BBS. Your whiskers may be different and may ultimately need the three pass shave - WTG, XTG, ATG.
5. YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary) - if a product or technique doesn't work for you, that's O.K. it doesn't work for you.
6. Continue to ask questions on B&B. No questions are dumb or stupid.
7. Continue to explore the tremendous amount of information on B&B.
8. Don't over tighten the razor head on your Edwin Jagger razor. As another B&B member stated, "It's not a lug nut on a tire."
9. Wet shaving investments need not be expensive. Colonel Conk shaving soaps, Mama Bears shaving soaps, Palmolive shaving sticks, Razorock soaps, Taylor of Old Bond Street (TOBS) creams are most affordable and excellent performers.
10. Blade samplers are great. Chances are if you are an engaged B&B member, other members will PIF (Pay it Forward) you some. Astra SP blades get a lot of love around here. I am often asked what my favorite blades are. They are Astra SP, Personna Labs, and Gillette 7o'clock Yellows...but your favorite blades might be different.
11. Be gentlemanly at all times and don't ask for PIF's.
12. When soaking your shaving brush before your shave, it's O.K. to only soak it 1/2 way to 2/3 up the bristles.
13. When you need some quiet time, experiment with creating lathers.
14. Lather making can be fun. Try two methods. The "Marco Method" is where you do not remove the excess water in your brush and you load your brush for 60 seconds with soap. Another method, involves gently squeezing the excess water out of your brush, then loading soap for 45-60 seconds, but adding a few drops of water every 15 seconds to your brush. For "stubborn" soaps, I use the Marco Method. More often than not, I use the second method. It's always easier to add in more water than to take it out.
15. If you make a mistake in buying a product that doesn't work for you, consider selling it or trading it on the BST (Buy Sell Trade) forum when you're eligible.
16. Check the BST Forum regularly for good deals.
17. There are several excellent vendors out there where you can buy products from - West Coast Shaving, Razorbladesandmore, Bullgoose Shaving, Italian Barber, Lees Safety Razors, Shoebox Shave Shop, Vintage Blades LLC just to name a few.
18. Several vendors offer free shipping over a certain $ amount and/or discounts. Check the wiki for discount codes.
19. Be sure to rinse your shaving brush after use and hang it upside down to dry out. Don't store a wet brush in a drawer or closet.
20. An alum stick or alum bar can be your friend. I use my Razorock alum stick 100 % of the time. It helps to close your pores, seal any nicks, and serves as an overall antiseptic. After you rinse with warm water, then cold water, apply the alum to your face. It may slightly sting. Leave it on for a few minutes then rinse with cold water. Dry your face. Then use an aftershave or balm. I much prefer balms. Easily absorbed and conditions your skin.
21. When your razor blade begins tugging a lot, it's time for a blade change.Blades are inexpensive don't try to push it. Once again, YMMV. I tend to automatically change my blades after the 2nd or 3rd shave.
22. Create a safe place (especially if you have kids/pets) to store your new and used blades.
23. Some brushes comes with free acrylic stands. Acrylic brush stands are inexpensive- usually around $5 and come in different colors.
24. Countertop toothbrush holders can serve as an affordable stand for your razor(s).
25. Soap and cream samplers are a good way to test soaps and creams. I urge you to purchase the Truefitt and Hill sampler for $8.50 after discount, the discount code is BB12, which yields you a 15% discount.
26. Not all shaving brushes are equal. Silvertip badger is very luxurious and retains water for you. Soft on your face and easy to make a lather. Some folks like badger brushes with more stiffness (backbone) and will opt for best badger (a step down ) or a brush with a shorter bristle length (loft). Some folks will purchase an inexpensive Tweezerman pure badger brush to start out with.
27. Don't disqualify boar brushes. Yes, they do need a break in period. But I am here to say that the Semogue 1305 boar brush is the one I would save. A versatile performer with both soaps and creams and most affordable.
28. If you have a few soap pucks, no real need to keep them covered. You can use a coffee mug you have around the house to keep it in. If it's a larger soap puck, there are many larger bowls with a handle you can use. Bed, bath, and beyond has one in several colors for $4.99. The bowl is good to have anyways, if you are using shaving creams to create your lather.
29. If you are using shaving creams to create your lather, you only need a small dollop, especially if you have soft water in your house.
30. Many shaving soaps automatically (or for a small up charge) come in a plastic or wooden tub with a cover.
31. If you own many shaving soaps, keep them covered either in the tub it came in or in a plastic or glass tub with a cover.
32. Don't put the cover on a wet soap puck, let it dry out first.
33. Who are the 3 T's? Truefitt and Hill (T&H), Taylor of Old Bond Street(TOBS), and Trumpers, our friends across the pond from England. They make wonderful shaving soaps, creams, fragrances. My favorites are T&H, then TOBS ( more affordable).
34. Vulfix owns the more expensive Simpson brush line. Vulfix brushes are more affordable.
35. Wet shaving is a simple pleasure. We live in such a hurried pace, always rushing. Instead, it's so nice to take a few extra minutes shaving, enjoying the lather, the scent, and the overall experience. We can slow down time, just a few moments, and pamper ourselves. For me, I often reflect on earlier times with my late father. How he taught me to shave when I was 13. I feel in some ways, I'm honoring that time by traditional wet shaving.
36. Razors: There are so many to choose from. For newbies, the Edwin Jagger DE 89 series gets a lot of love. It comes in many handle variations - chrome, lined chrome, and barley chrome. Edwin Jagger razors have a wonderful chrome job and give a good shave. The Merkur HD 34 c gets a lot of love. The chrome job is not on the same level as the Edwin Jagger. Or, consider a vintage Gillette Superspeed TTO (twist to open, also known as a butterfly top). I'm not talking about the red tip or the blue tip Vintage Gillettes. Be careful when purchasing a vintage razor. Make sure the silo doors open and close properly and the razor is preferably free of brassing. If it needs a cleaning job, it can be done with a little TLC using a soft child's toothbrush, Dawn, Scrubbing Bubbles, and Maas Metal polish.
37. Courtesy of Hawkeyeted: I'd like to add something that is VERY important for new wet shavers: Management of change.
Consistency is everything; If you change something in your routine, change only ONE THING at a time. There is nothing more frustrating than chasing that BBS by changing soap and blade and razor, etc. all at the same time. It is much easier to isolate what is (or isn't) working if you change only one thing. Take a moment to analyze if you improved your shave or not. If you think it did, repeat it as much as possible in an effort to create your new baseline. Trust me. If you follow this advice, your shaves will only continue to get better and better
38. To Hawkeyeted's point, create a shaving journal with all of the variables. I use the software database/iPad app "Bento" where I track the date, days between shaving, razor, blade, brush, soap, after shave, alum, and a place for overall comments.
39. Courtesy of Face&Head: A sharp blade is your friend. Many cuts & nicks come from compensating for blades that aren't doing their job properly.
40. Courtesy of Face& Head: There are many adjustable razors on the market from vintage to modern. Technique is everything, start at a low setting and work your way up.
41. Courtesy of Topgumby: Facial hair is tough on edges. Gillette claims that dry beards are as tough as copper wire of the same diameter. Hydrating the beard makes it much easier to cut. To get water in, you have to strip away the oils that naturally occur. You do this by thoroughly washing the beard with soap and water, at least once and perhaps twice before lathering up. Soap and cream makers spend a lot of time and effort putting ingredients in their product that allow water to get in the hairs, "softening the beard". If you let your lather sit on the beard for two minutes before you start shaving, you'll maximize this effect. There are many, many posts here regarding proper prep, and many different theories and methods to achieve it. The above works for me. Some go further with hot towels, special products, different routines. Shaving right after a shower gives much of the same effect, as long as you don't let your beard dry out. Proper prep will make everything else easier. It increases the effective life of blades. It reduces irritation. It's been advocated by various blade, soap, razor and cream makers for decades, and many shavers still shrug, lather up and immediately have at it, then curse the blade, the lather, the razor, technique or unkind fate for poor results. Prep the beard.
42. Courtesy of sethleupagus: Proper prep makes a world of difference. In addition to showering, I wash my beard with glycerin soap once at the start of the shower, and once right before I step out. I face lather and let the lather sit for a while before I start shaving.
43. Courtesy of The Count of Merkur Cristo: Glycerine is great in (only 2-3 drops), the making of Uberlather (soap and cream combination)
44. Courtesy of The Count of Merkur Cristo: Although Clubman can be drying upon the face and body, the addition of about 10 drops of glycerine per 6oz bottle greatly increases the moisturizing and toning aspects and 'kicks' this aftershave-cologne 'up a notch'.
Please feel free to add to the list or contact me with any questions you may have.
Last edited:
