Questions for a Newbie

[pipskicks]

I couldn't find these easily, so I'm going to go for the questions I have, I hope these aren't too repetitive, I did try and find them in the wiki, but they either weren't specific enough (I'm OCD) or they weren't there.

1. Read storing the razor for short or long-term should be done with oil, what oil would you guys get/recommend? Not sure what to use here.

2. Is the oil for the leather strop necessary? Saw this and wasn't sure.

3. Do most of you mail out your razor? That seems a bit annoying, are there usually barber shops (at least somewhere) that have hones and barbers know can properly sharpen your razor for you?
I know I need a starter hone to do it eventually, and this is jumping a bit ahead, but it was just something I was curious about.


Thanks guys, I got most of these questions from reading, and it's not super complicated, I just completely ignored straights, not wanting to think about $100+ hones and the like, so I feel like I know nothing about straights besides how to lather.

 

[PapaFish]

I used to oil my razors, but don't anymore. Not because it isn't good to do, but I have figured out how to shave well enough to keep water out of the pivot area, and I dry the razor well after use. Plus, if the edge degrades a bit, it's just a reason for me to touch it up . Strop oil is necessary. Get Neetsfoot oil. Just a couple drops will do for a long time. I tried other oils, and they just didn't work long term, but the neetsfoot oil is one application every... Ok I don't remember the last time I applied it to my strop, and it's still working great! Lots of guys mail their razors. I jumped right in and started out honing. If your razor is shave ready to begin with, a finishing hone will keep you going forever (provided you don't ruin the edge somehow).

 

[Doc226]

1. I don't oil my razors, I store them in the silicone sleeves from TSS-never had a problem. If I was to oil I would use camelia oil or vaseline.

2. No it is not needed on a strop, I run my hand over the leather surface before each use.

3. I don't mail my razors out, but some do. If you have a shave ready razor you can maintain the edge with chromium oxide on balsa wood for quite some time. You can also get a number of stones for touch ups-barber hones, coticules, C12K, lapping film, eschers, thuris, arkie, etc, etc

 

[ridnovir]

1) +1 on silicone sleeves I oil occasionally with food grade mineral oil.
2) Strops will work just fine without oiling. also look into pasted strops & balsa
3) LOL most barbers today have no idea how to get a razor sharp. I strongly suggest investing in some good stones/pasted strops and learning how to do it yourself. I think it would be safe to assume that most of us here hone the razors by ourselves.

 

[pipskicks]

Trying to keep my AD's under some control but I thought the straight being sent to me looks great and I just want to make sure I take care of it. I have seen chipped blades in the antique store, and being a newbie I don't know what I'll do to it (not in a chipping manner, just not keeping it smooth long). I so far have just gotten some leather (maybe Bolsa I am not sure) just to lap it for now, I read newspaper even works (although I don't want to treat it poorly). I don't think I have any ability to hone yet, maybe I should look into buying a cheap "finishing hone?" I'm not sure really, I think I have a few months of use before needing one though right? Or is this not so correct?


I didn't know most people still hone themselves I thought a lot were sent out. This is helpful, also what is the difference between regular honing and just "finishing honing" on the straight razor that PapaFish mentioned? Although never honing a razor I don't know if I should get one to practice or if it's safe for me to jump right in, I've never so much as sharpened a knife (correctly) before
To say I'm not mechanically inclined is an understatement.


I didn't see a good guide at testing the blade (other than if it tugs hone it sort of thing) but I did see microscopic pictures. Are the microscopic pictures more for fun (i.e. most people don't do that when honing?). Is there a good guide online to show how to test the blade (sorry I looked in the wiki and the only thing I saw was something about a wet finger but I couldn't understand the instructions really, but I'm sure there must be old posts or better wikis on this).


Thanks so much for the info guys!! I would never put a blade to my face like this without having all you guys to pester with questions non-stop

 

[Doc226]

The most important part of straight razor shaving is starting out with a shave ready razor. That razor can be maintained for some time with balsa wood with crox. I would suggest getting the sight unseen deal from whipped dog.

After you mess up the edge (and you will) thats when you will need to re-hone it.

 

[pipskicks]

The most important part of straight razor shaving is starting out with a shave ready razor. That razor can be maintained for some time with balsa wood with crox. I would suggest getting the sight unseen deal from whipped dog.

After you mess up the edge (and you will) thats when you will need to re-hone it.

An awesome member put a newbie deal on the BST and I jumped on it. It's shave-ready, but I figure I will mess with it eventually, I just didn't want to spend too much money yet, I see hones going for $100+ and that's a bit much for me compared to DE shaving costs. Is the Crox just a spray?

Oh and that awesome member threw some balsa wood in with it, I have no idea what I'll be doing and may try a newspaper a few times so I don't chop up the wood (that seems to be recommended), but I guess I'll have enough to keep it going for a while.


Does lapping and honing sort of inter-lap? No pun intended, I just seem to get confused with this so much, especially since the same materials seem to be used for both (balsa wood is used for lapping correct?) and then there is "finishing honing" which sounds like maybe in-between lapping and honing? Boy this is confusing! I want one of those microscopes!

 

[Doc226]

Honing is done on stones or films-the edge leads and the spine trails
Stropping is done on leather, balsa wood, newspaper-pretty much anything that can be cut.

Lapping refers to making the stone perfectly flat-it must be perfectly flat in order to hone a razor.

Balsa wood with crox (powder mixed with oil) is used to maintain an edge after it has been properly honed. Balsa would get cut up if you hone on it, you must strop on balsa.

If you want to maintain an edge cheaply I would recommend balsa with crox of 1 micron lapping film.

 

[Straight Rasier User]

So Young and So New.

There is a lot to learn.

1) You have to read the Wiki.

2) You have to visit YouTube.

3) And you probably have to buy Lynn Abrams Viedo on StraightRazorDesigns.com.

You have a lot of different steps to learn.

 

[Krodor]

And you can get perfectly workable finishing rocks for lots less than 100+. I'm thinking a good sized c12k for 30-35, for example. That and a blade that starts shave ready (if you know what you are doing) and you'll never *need* to buy anything else. Want to buy is quite different.

 

[pipskicks]

And you can get perfectly workable finishing rocks for lots less than 100+. I'm thinking a good sized c12k for 30-35, for example. That and a blade that starts shave ready (if you know what you are doing) and you'll never *need* to buy anything else. Want to buy is quite different.

Then why are there so many different Micron rocks? Would lapping film be a good investment? Or are some of the types only for fixing razors in poor shape?

 

[Krodor]

Oh, my child, let me introduce you to my two friends. This one is named "he-who-chases-the-keen" and the other is "I-gotta-try-that-cuz-everyone-talks-about-it" they come at night into your room through the Internet and steal your money.

But yes, that is the key reason lapping films are so sweet. Cheap, easy to use, consistent, easily transportable and replaceable, very low maintenance if any, and give a unarguably beautifully krazy-keen and comfy shave. The only thing they dont have going for them is the mystique factor. True, a coti can do it all with one object, but the lapping film does it cheaper, in less space, and lighter.

Other grits are for when you screw something up and dull/damage the edge more than just shaving would do, or if you bought a non-shave-ready razor and need to get it up and running. Odds are good you'll do the former, thus the likelihood of needing other grits. It's a catch 22: the better you get at straight shaving, the less you need, but the more you want/have!

 

[pipskicks]

Living in an apartment, the smaller space-taking films may just be the honing solution though

 

[Krodor]

You got it. There is at least one person around here that lives 100% of the time in an RV. Films work right for him.

 

[pipskicks]

Slowly I'm starting to understand

 

[Slash McCoy]

I live on a 27 foot sailboat. I have to step out on deck just to change my mind. The compactness of films is a big advantage for me. I use a 4" x 12" polished marble "bullnose" edge tile from Home Depot for my plate. I get my films from www.thorlabs.com. I cut mine lengthwise into 3" wide pieces and I have a tremendous amount of honing real estate, nice and flat, very consistent. Edges are superb. There is absolutely no way I would get a better edge by rubbing my razors on rocks.

A 3" wide block of balsa pasted on one side with 1u diamond paste from www.tedpella.com and the other side with .25u or with CrOx will make your edges last a very long time before you need to hone them. Indefinitely, with good technique. I give my razors a dozen laps on balsa after shaving, and then 3 or 4 dozen on the Big Daddy hanging strop before shaving. The edge simply will not get dull! Be sure to get a nice wide piece. 3" is about right. It is so cheap that it is a no brainer... no need to compromise on size. The wider surface gives better results, especially for a newbie. A long piece, at least 12", helps, too.

 

[Rschan]

Excuse me for Hijacking the tread,
Slash can you please tell when proceeding on films from bevel setting to finish in what order we have to use them. (If you can give the grit level eg 1u etc with the color of the sheet ) and how many laps on each level.

That will be great info for newbs like us.

Thanks

 

[Slash McCoy]

Excuse me for Hijacking the tread,
Slash can you please tell when proceeding on films from bevel setting to finish in what order we have to use them. (If you can give the grit level eg 1u etc with the color of the sheet ) and how many laps on each level.

That will be great info for newbs like us.

Thanks

brown or yellow is 12u
black is 5u
pink or violet is 3u
light green is 1u
white is .3u and is not really needed
These colors may vary so to be certain have the seller clearly mark them, or order only one grade at a time.

To set the bevel on film, start with at least 12u and if you can get coarser film, go for it if it is needed. You can also use 1k sandpaper. Then progress through the finer films. After the 1u, remove the film and apply damp paper to your plate, then reapply the film over the damp paper, and give the razor another 50 very light laps. This gives you a very nice edge. I shaved off this edge once without stropping though I certainly don't recommend it except as an experiment or on a bet.

How many laps? As many as you need. YMWV.

For bevel setting, cheat a little. You only have to set the bevel once, so the wear need not be an issue. Hone just one side of the razor until you raise a burr along the full length of the edge. You will feel it on the other side of the edge. Keep going until you have a full length burr. Then hone the other side, same number of strokes, and check for the burr on the opposite side. When you have raised a full length burr on both sides, remove the burr with 40 or 50 very light laps and your bevel is set.

Subsequent stages just hone with regular alternating laps until you see an improvement, then give it 20 more. Then move to the next grade. Typically for me this is about 50 laps.

See the lapping film thread. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/283576-Lapping-film-try-it? Do a search for other threads with "lapping film" in the title.

 

[Jporco]

So Young and So New.

There is a lot to learn.

1) You have to read the Wiki.

2) You have to visit YouTube.

3) And you probably have to buy Lynn Abrams Viedo on StraightRazorDesigns.com.

You have a lot of different steps to learn.

Ha, ha.....
1) Yes
2) Absolutely
3) No....see 1 and 2 before following 3. Repeat as necessary!

 

[Rschan]

Slash I really appreciate the helping hand.