About a month or two ago, I lightly oiled my razors with mineral oil. Today I got them out to inspect them and on one, there was a tiny black speck of on it that I couldn't wipe off and on another there were some tiny specks of red rust on the gold wash/stamp (bismarck) so I went back and applied a heavier coat of mineral oil. Should that stop further rusting? or the rust from spreading?
Question about preventing further rusting
- Thread starter FauxPax
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black specks=pitting
orange=active rust
brown=old rust set in
sandpaper that spots..not sure which grits though
orange=active rust
brown=old rust set in
sandpaper that spots..not sure which grits though
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- #3
try to post some clear pics...if rust is on ANY goldwash..its probably a goner for it..I had a family heirloom razor restored..also had goldwash..rusted though..the honemeister had no choice but to remove it..makers info is 100% in perfect shape though
If there was any moisture whatsoever on the blade when you applied the oil you may have trapped it in under the oil and no way for it to dry causing spotting or rusting. Don't be ashamed though, a lot of people go through this at the beginning. We get a lot of people askign the same question you are right now. My first Dovo went through the same, it was quite stained after my first few months starting out.
How I keep my razors in good shape is: After the shave, dry the razor extensively. Including the inside of the scales where water tends to hang out and hide. Leave the razor open to dry for at least an hour, put it away in a dry room or cupboard outside of the bathroom. I don't oil my razors because I don't have issues when using this routine, but if you need to add the oil as the last step.
How I keep my razors in good shape is: After the shave, dry the razor extensively. Including the inside of the scales where water tends to hang out and hide. Leave the razor open to dry for at least an hour, put it away in a dry room or cupboard outside of the bathroom. I don't oil my razors because I don't have issues when using this routine, but if you need to add the oil as the last step.
More than likely there was some moisture on the blade when you oiled it and the layer of oil trapped the moisture, which caused the oxidation. You can try to get it off with some metal polish, but if it is in the goldwash, then you're going to lose the goldwash unfortunately.
The best way to keep your razors from rusting is not to oil them, for the very reason that you are now having trouble, it can trap moisture on the blade. The best way to prevent rusting in my experience is to make sure everything is dry and then store the razor in a silicone treated gun cloth. Jarrod at thesuperiorshave.com actually sells sleeves of oil impregnated gun cloth for this purpose.
The best way to keep your razors from rusting is not to oil them, for the very reason that you are now having trouble, it can trap moisture on the blade. The best way to prevent rusting in my experience is to make sure everything is dry and then store the razor in a silicone treated gun cloth. Jarrod at thesuperiorshave.com actually sells sleeves of oil impregnated gun cloth for this purpose.
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- #7
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- #8
I keep my razors in a silicone sleeve from TSS, I keep the razor I am using in the bathroom, never had a spot of rust on them. I don't oil them either.
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- #11
In that case, I think your guess is better than ours... If you want to prevent further rust, either buy or make yourself some silicone cloth sleeves for your razors.
Well ... I suggest to wipe them with Alcohol and then, oil them.
Or move.
Washington is not a dry state but, Southern California is.
Or move.
Washington is not a dry state but, Southern California is.
Humidity in the air.
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- #15
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- #16
Once you get them cleaned up a application of Tuf-Glide will help keep rust at bay.
synthetic bicycle or trani oil is good too
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- #19
First and foremost moving forward, try and disperse as much water as possible (hopefully all of it that can be seen with the naked eye) before packing in that case.
Get some Flitz or Maas and try to be as localized as possible in giving it a go right on the problem area...I'd sacrifice a bunch of cotton swabs for the task, just get a tiny drop of the good stuff on the head of the swab and then massage at the point of oxidation. Hopefully it is a shallow problem and you can get it off without hitting any sandpaper. I bet it'd work.
After blades are oxidation free, don't oil 'em and do throw some little silica gel packets in between each blade; the tiny kind you'd find in a new pair of shoes or a new sport coat's pocket should sneak in there, just be sure they're crispy so they'll work.
At the top of the 'shavers' collection still lies a permanently-and-terribly-stained(at least if the wash decor's to remain) French singer I'd oiled up good and proper and put away for a few days. Like many, I didn't know how little moisture had to remain below my entombment to do its thing, but on the bright side life's lessons are not forgotten when learned the hard way.
Get some Flitz or Maas and try to be as localized as possible in giving it a go right on the problem area...I'd sacrifice a bunch of cotton swabs for the task, just get a tiny drop of the good stuff on the head of the swab and then massage at the point of oxidation. Hopefully it is a shallow problem and you can get it off without hitting any sandpaper. I bet it'd work.
After blades are oxidation free, don't oil 'em and do throw some little silica gel packets in between each blade; the tiny kind you'd find in a new pair of shoes or a new sport coat's pocket should sneak in there, just be sure they're crispy so they'll work.
At the top of the 'shavers' collection still lies a permanently-and-terribly-stained(at least if the wash decor's to remain) French singer I'd oiled up good and proper and put away for a few days. Like many, I didn't know how little moisture had to remain below my entombment to do its thing, but on the bright side life's lessons are not forgotten when learned the hard way.
