Question About CrOx

Discussion in 'Hones/Honing' started by TheLegalRazor, Mar 28, 2019.

    I use CrOx on balsa and cotton. I can no longer get the Straight Razor Designs .5 micron Chromium Oxide Spray. What is a good alternative?

    I have this bar of green honing compound, which I understand is chromium oxide and aluminum oxide. Should I use this?

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  1. Maggard's sells good CrOx.
     
  2. My only real experience with CrOx is the powdered form on Whipped Dog’s poor man’s balsa. That said, I’ve preferred CBN/diamond sprays that I’ve used. They feel smoother, less toothy to me. That said, when I was on film, I got to where I’d stop at 1u. I’ve also since tried Slash’s .5, .25, .1u on balsa and that is impressively smooth, and very, very sharp.
     
  3. CrOx is yesterday's news. See the Pasted Balsa Strop thread. Better yet, see the entire Method Honing thread. Diamond works fantastic. You use so little, that price should not be a concern. 5g will last you a very long time if you apply it correctly. CBN has a following and most users say it works at least as good as diamond.

    To get the full benefit of the diamond you must lap the balsa and you must apply sparingly and wipe the balsa down with an old tshirt after applying and rubbing it in, and you must strop lightly, in hand, and you must use a piece of balsa of decent size, (12" x 3" is the standard size) and well, just read the thread. If you freestyle it, then you may as well stick to CrOx for all the good it will do. But don't listen to me. Listen to the growing community of diamond (or CBN) on balsa users.
     
  4. Slash, I've read your Pasted Balsa Strop thread and it's excellent. I'm also aware of the excellent results being obtained with diamond and CBN. I intend to start experimenting with diamond and will definitely incorporate your suggestions. However, I've gotten good results with CrOx, so I want to do a comparison between that and diamond.
     
  5. That's a good thing to do. I have already done it, as a matter of fact, both with and without FeOx. CrOx simply cannot give you a .1u diamond edge. Properly used, the diamond gives an edge that is not only sharper, but also smoother. The red paste after the green CrOx will get you nearly there, but takes about 5x the laps. Most guys use waaaaaay too much paste for optimum results. They apply until there is a coating on the balsa. This creates a slurry effect. Great for stripping artifacts from an edge. So-so for "softening" a "harsh" edge. Very poor for peaking up a precise apex. Better results come from embedding the abrasive and wiping off all that is just smeared on top. Obviously a coating works faster, but can never give you max sharpness. Embedded abrasive, ultralight pressure, and lots of laps gives you the magic edge. Along with lapping and stabilizing the balsa, and using it in hand. Optimum technique will improve your CrOx edge. It will astonish you with diamond to .1u. If you like your CrOx edges so far, I predict a well executed diamond balsa edge will make you delirious with joy.
     
  6. Give it a try on a denim strop; I've used the Porter Cable green stuff you get at Lowes and it worked pretty well.
     
  7. I second the opinion to try the crox2 on a denim strop. Hold off until you have a scrap. Mine is tied on the back of a board. I think you have nothing to lose and everything to gain by trying it out. J.
     

  8. https://shop.kremerpigments.com/media/pdf/44200e.pdf

    predominant particle size 0.3 microns

    Whether or not you want to deal with a bag of green powder
    is something to ponder, but Kremer Pigments will sell you
    a pound of 0.3 micron crox for about $30.

    Chrome Oxide Green | Kremer Pigments Inc.
     
  9. If you do use a pasted strop, please buy a strop just for that purpose. The easiest way to ruin a nice linen strop is to paste it. I've got strops that were probably pasted over a century ago that I've scrubbed, soaked and washed dozens of times that STILL screw up the edge with bits of abrasive that refuse to come out.
     
  10. Get an old pair of jeans at Goodwill and cut it up into strips. Works a treat with the CrOx or green stuff that Lowes has for buffing compound. Porter Cable brand can't tell the difference between .25µ diamond spray and that stuff.
     
  11. Do you use you jean strips hanging or mounted ridgeley?
     
  12. Hanging; I duct tape it to the edge of my honing table.
     
  13. I did just that recently (Puma green stuff on denim side of naked armor strop) and and it seems pretty fool proof to bring an edge to what I would call sharp enough. I will have to look into getting a setup to try Slash McCoy's method to see how much sharper it can get.
     

  14. I have used this for years, powder mixed w/alcohol in a spray bottle very convenient way for applying accurately to any sub-straight and does exactly what I want crox to do.
     
  15. I am beginning to understand that when you get to a certain level of sharp, small increments of shave improvement are experienced by honing on higher and higher grits. Of course, our individual beards are going to play a large role in how any blade performs. My anecdotal theory right now is the best way to judge an edge is not the first pass, but subsequent pass results.
     
  16. First pass measures two very extreme ends. You'll know a bad edge REALLY FAST on the first pass (it'll struggle of course... or shave very "crunchy" I like to call it). But with time you develop a sense where you can predict a REAL NICE edge on the first pass. The first way this develops is you do it and think you grabbed the wrong razor and there's no edge on it because it's not cutting anything... then notice your beard is gone... it just waves through even a dense beard.

    But yes, telling two very similar edges apart is all about the final pass. Comfort, irritation, and how close it shaves become the main determinants. Some edges will give you BBS that you didn't feel and you'll be pleased with the shave until about 30 seconds later when you start seeping blood (microchips are notorious for this). Some edges will give BBS, but the shave will feel difficult... like you just can't get the right angle of approach and your neck will turn red after the shave. Some edges will feel great, not cut you, and you won't trust the shave was as close as it is until you actually feel your face and go... damn... that's a good edge.
     
  17. I am very interested in what you just wrote.
    I use a "mayonnaise formula" of 0.3 micron crox.
    When it runs out, I don't plan to get any more.
    What can you tell me about how you formulate your crox and alcohol?
    How much crox, how much alcohol?
    Ethanol or isopropyl? Pure or diluted?
    Thank you.
     
  18. I use isopropyl but I'm certain you could use Ethanol if that's what you have.
    I find it's not that critical on ratio, about 30% CrOx powdered pigment and 70% alcohol, I used 70% Isopropyl because that's what I had on hand, using 90% Iso or un-diluted Ethanol would reduce drying time I would think.
     
  19. Thank you very much.
     

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