My current working line up is suehiro 1/6k straight to a 12k shapton...then on to stropping. Works well for a good price. I'm thinking of adding to the line up soon ...here's the plan suehiro 1k to shapton 4k to suehiro 6k to shapton 8k to 12k to 16k then finish on gokoyomo 20k. Does this sound like a good plan or should I take an different path??? I want straight forward fast results....no time to gamble or hope and pray for the right jnat or any garbage snake oil ...hudu crap.
Progression upgrade????
- Thread starter Mr.Crowley
- Start date
Im not sure there is any voodoo to natural stones. And there is a reason many experienced folks do prefer them. That said,you might want to add that not so cheap 20k after you try your new progression of synthetic hones. That may or may not provide much you can discern, especially if you don’t notice a difference in natural vs synth stone. In fact maybe diamond stopping would be something for you to consider.
- Thread starter
- #3
I have crox and .25 mic diamond...and a good coti .....want to try jnat in the worse way ....but to me for the price of good asweado ....and "the Gamble" if it is good....or how long I have to coax a good edge out of it....I just don't want to deal with it atm. I have 4little kids and work 7days a week....down the road I'll try asweado but for now I'm good.
- Thread starter
- #5
Ya maybe I'll hold off on 20k and go from there.
If you really want to give a Jnat a shot, get in contact with @alx gilmore. He can get you going on a Jnat that is tested and proven for a very reasonable cost. He has helped me out with a few hones and I have yet to be disappointed.
- Thread starter
- #7
Yes I've contacted him about a year ago just never pulled the trigger.
I don’t know if this will help but the no-nonsense synthetic system I’ve used is a 1k Naniwa professional stone (or Shapton 1.5k), 5K (again Naniwa or Shapton), & the Naniwa Snow White 8k followed by iron oxide (0.1u I think) on leather. Then it’s clean linen & leather stropping. Winds up rather sharp. Sharp enough that I have to really watch it on the 1st Shave. I know the Shapton 8k isn’t as fine as the Naniwa Snow White though. It’s an oddity in a way.
I would say that there are more of the "right" jnats than there are coticules though, a hard jnat from a reputable seller is not a gamble.
An adaptable stone can be very nice, just something to take in consideration.
No voodoo, just make a slurry and hone.
I do understand the know what you buy mentally with synthetics, but for finishing work, I kind of do regret buying synthetics.
If you want a consistent natural stone for finishing work check out the Arkansas, gives more than a desirable edge, very smooth and keen. Cost much less than the synthetic finishing stones aswell.
An adaptable stone can be very nice, just something to take in consideration.
No voodoo, just make a slurry and hone.
I do understand the know what you buy mentally with synthetics, but for finishing work, I kind of do regret buying synthetics.
If you want a consistent natural stone for finishing work check out the Arkansas, gives more than a desirable edge, very smooth and keen. Cost much less than the synthetic finishing stones aswell.
From the Shapton 8k you can easily go to the 20k and get fantastic results with no more than about 20-30 strokes (its a fast cutter for the grit). No need for either the 12 or 16, seriously.
The 20k is a great stone and if you don't buy the others then its a no brainer from where I am.
Easy to use, straightforward, repeatable and great edges. For synthetics it the best stone money can buy IMO.
Add a 3k and 20 or 30k leaving you with 1, 3, 6, 12, 20/30k.
Or get a 3k and a translucent ark leaving you with 1, 3, 6, 12 and ark
Or get a 3k and a translucent ark leaving you with 1, 3, 6, 12 and ark
- Thread starter
- #12
No need for 8 and 16?
I have and love the G20K! My progression, which works wonderfully, is:
Naniwa Chosera 1K
Naniwa SS 5K
Naniwa Snow White 8K (awesome rock!!)
G20K
I also have the Naniwa SS 8K and 12k which do not get used.
The results I get are fantastic, for me. The Snow White is by far my favorite stone. The speed with which it cuts and the feel/feedback us unmatched.
Naniwa Chosera 1K
Naniwa SS 5K
Naniwa Snow White 8K (awesome rock!!)
G20K
I also have the Naniwa SS 8K and 12k which do not get used.
The results I get are fantastic, for me. The Snow White is by far my favorite stone. The speed with which it cuts and the feel/feedback us unmatched.
6-8k is a small increment same with 12-16k. So IME no need for 8 and 16, others might not agree.
Whatever works for you!
New to SR honing, there is no way I should be posting to this thread, but I like the no-nonsense non-argumentative quality of the posts. Reading it is clarifying some questions that I will probably go ask in new threads. I hope some of the posters here respond.
So, respect to @Mr.Crowley for having time to shave SR, let alone upgrade his progression. And presumably for finding time for some edge restoration projects if he is often going back to 1k.
And thanks to all the synthetics mini-reviews in this thread, I now have a secret desire for the G20k ($$$$!) and curiosity about the Naniwa Snow White, which seems to hold its place in the face of serious ‘improved’ competition. I considered it, then bought a Naniwa S2 12k.
Seriously, thanks to all, quality thread.
So, respect to @Mr.Crowley for having time to shave SR, let alone upgrade his progression. And presumably for finding time for some edge restoration projects if he is often going back to 1k.
And thanks to all the synthetics mini-reviews in this thread, I now have a secret desire for the G20k ($$$$!) and curiosity about the Naniwa Snow White, which seems to hold its place in the face of serious ‘improved’ competition. I considered it, then bought a Naniwa S2 12k.
Seriously, thanks to all, quality thread.
8k is the perfect jumping off point for synthetics or natural.
6k not as much.
Using anything else before a 20k is a waste of time and money IMO.
I've tested conventional progressions alongside a "progression" where I set the bevel on a DMT D8F and went straight to tomo slurry on a fast hard Nakayama kiita koppa I got from @alx gilmore , finishing on the same jnat on water. There wasn't any difference I could notice when shaving. There wasn't a difference under the scope in the lab at work, either, until you got pretty far back along the bevel plane away from the apex.
There also wasn't any detectable difference in the final edge when going from a coti with slurry to the same jnat, though I did have less of a propensity to remove more metal than necessary or mark up the spine when doing so.
So my take on this is to set the best bevel you can, get the most out of each stone in your current progression, and don't worry about buying more intermediate rocks.
There also wasn't any detectable difference in the final edge when going from a coti with slurry to the same jnat, though I did have less of a propensity to remove more metal than necessary or mark up the spine when doing so.
So my take on this is to set the best bevel you can, get the most out of each stone in your current progression, and don't worry about buying more intermediate rocks.
