Problem with my new (to me) Gillette Super Adjustable 84

[Dirty Harry]

I just took delivery of one of these yesterday ( Wide World Web) and I think I did well. I've been looking for an 84 and finally found one.

After doing a few cleaning cycles (scrubby bubbles and hot dawn soak) I have a great looking razor that looks functional except....

I noticed right away that I couldn't feel the 1/8-1/4 turn when the lower knob is tightened.

After working it over and putting a little lube in that area the problem remains. It is like a mechanical stop. I don't feel any hint of a spring.

I thought I'd give it a try and so I mounted up a fresh Astra SP and set it on 5 like my other slim and FB Executive.

Ouch!!! I ended up putting it on setting one and I still felt "face fry" for a few hours after the shave.

I can set the razor on 1 and tighten the cap and pull the head away from the handle and feel the spring there just fine.

Everything seems clean and free to move in the head. Doors open evenly and all gaps seem uniform.

Is this a "clocking" issue where the dial is not allowing the head to move down enough to get the proper blade gap and allow a little spring action in the knob. I've looked around the web but I have never pulled one of these apart and I won't at this point either.

I seem to have a little space between the area just above the adjustment knob. See pic.

I have the blade gap list for Gillette adjustable and the Supers seem a little aggressive compared to the slims. I haven't measured the blade gap.

Are these two problems related. How can I check?

Or is it just a matter of depressing the little spring and setting the dial at the setting I feel it correct.

What stops the dial at 1 and 9?

Thanks,

Dirty

 

[romsitsa]

A few photos of the closed head would help, but it looks to be orverclocked (setting 1 is more like 10). At setting 1 the pegs of the adjuster plate should be almost flush with the base plate.
Lack of the spring feedback is usually caused by calc buildup in the handle.

 

[Dirty Harry]

The attached pics are all at setting 1.

Would CLR be good to try to resolve any calcium? How long of a soak?How would you flush the gunk out. I didn't see a lot of dirt come out of the razor during cleaning.

How should I attempt to reset the clocking?

Thanks

 

[nwohio]

Don't think i would use CLR on it, may damage the coating on the handle.

 

[Dirty Harry]

The attached pics are all at setting 1.

Would CLR be good to try to resolve any calcium? How long of a soak?How would you flush the gunk out. I didn't see a lot of dirt come out of the razor during cleaning.

How should I attempt to reset the clocking?

Thanks

The pics show that the "feet" are just a little proud of the base plate at setting #1. It seems the same amount as on my Slim set at #1.

 

[Quaznoid]

If you loosen the bottom knob (that opens\closes the doors) and then adjust will it adjust properly?

 

[Dirty Harry]

Yes it adjusts properly I guess. I think I'm going to give this a little time.

After detecting just a little movement on the 1/4 turn thing I am going through another cleaning/drying/ lube cycle.

I'm gonna give this another try in another shot in a day or two.

I just spent a little time comparing gaps in my good slim vs the SA and they seem quite close regarding the blade gap.

Any further assistance regarding resetting/checking the clocking would be helpful.

Could someone walk me through resetting the clocking for a razor that shaves to aggressively.

My thoughts:

1. With doors open set the adjuster to "1"
2. Depress spring and move it a quarter turn to "9"
3. Release spring
4. Check out or proceed to step 5
5. shave with it
6. Check back with B&B with results.

Dirty

 

[Dirty Harry]

After doing some exhaustive research I found an entry somewhere.
He states:

Sounds like your razor has been "overclocked".
This works with a Fatboy and Slim, I don't own a Super Adjustable. Press on the spring loaded clicker with a small screwdriver or paperclip and at the same time turn the dial from 1 over the "stop" towards 9, this should put you back in the normal range.
Bob.

I did that and now I have a razor that almost seems to mild. It was pretty aggressive before. I just had an OK shave at "7". I'm wondering if the fat that I have no 1/4" spring that the original setting was OK but the blade was not cinched properly. I'm doing a 50/50 vinegar soak for a while in case I have some calcification. (The razor not me although that may be a remote possibility).

I'll loop back after I get some results from the soak.

I'm still not sure if the 1/4 spring has anything relation ship to the blade gap. I'm thinking not, it just maintains the setting.

Of course any advice or encouragement would be great.

Dirty

 

[Dirty Harry]

Well to quote George Costanza "It moved".

After several soaking/cleanings in different materials I felt it engage the spring. It did not do that on every setting but I felt confident that I had made progress.

I gave it a good rinse out last night and this morning I put it in a mineral oil (thinned with a little Mineral Spirits) and let it soak for a few hours.

I felt pretty confident that I had it licked until....

No love, it feels about the same as always. Turn the knob down tight and Blam! it stops dead without any spring action.

I've changed the clocking a few times and the current setting provides the same gaps as my good slim.

I've decided to just make peace with this. I'll try shaving with it and see how it performs in the current condition.

Still a nice razor.

Dirty

PS. A little warning for folks thinking about a hot vinegar bath for your razor. Keep a close eye on things. I definitely lost a little plating on the two silver parts of the lower knob. I figured that if the mixture was that strong, it cleaned out and residual stuff inside the razor. I think it is still a good solution just be careful.

 

[Dirty Harry]

Well yesterday the clouds opened and the sun came out and the SA is restored!!!

After about a 36 hour soak in dawn and water, it works. Not only works but works quite smoothly. I dried it over night and it still works!

Can't wait to use it!

This soap is great stuff. I'm thinking about doing the dishes with it now.

Dirty

 

[smartpc]

PS. A little warning for folks thinking about a hot vinegar bath for your razor. Keep a close eye on things. I definitely lost a little plating on the two silver parts of the lower knob. I figured that if the mixture was that strong, it cleaned out and residual stuff inside the razor. I think it is still a good solution just be careful.

I once faced a similar problem: with a dirty and stuck Gillette Slim. I remembered that when I gave my old mechanical watches for maintenance, the watchmaker told me that the best and safest solvent for watches (and for any mechanisms) is low-octane gasoline. Such as the one used for Coleman gasoline stoves and lanterns. It can also be called Nafta. It dissolves any organics and does not harm the coating. This is the gasoline solvent that the watchmaker soaks mechanical watches in. I followed his advice and my razor became like new. You just need to wash it well afterwards and then lubricate it with WD-40.

 

[Wgg2017]

You just need to wash it well afterwards and then lubricate it with WD-40.

WD-40 isn't a lubricant. It's a water displacer. Over time any WD-40 left on an item will turn into a gummy-type consistency. That's also why it shouldn't be used on firearms with moving parts.

 

[Kix]

I once faced a similar problem: with a dirty and stuck Gillette Slim. I remembered that when I gave my old mechanical watches for maintenance, the watchmaker told me that the best and safest solvent for watches (and for any mechanisms) is low-octane gasoline. Such as the one used for Coleman gasoline stoves and lanterns. It can also be called Nafta. It dissolves any organics and does not harm the coating. This is the gasoline solvent that the watchmaker soaks mechanical watches in. I followed his advice and my razor became like new. You just need to wash it well afterwards and then lubricate it with WD-40.

Coleman fuel is naphtha. There are many grades of naphtha, some are like Coleman fuel and some are like lighter fluid. Those two have a big difference in volatility. I've used both for decades to clean various things. But technically, it's not gasoline.

YMMV.

 

[Salty_Shaver]

Don't think i would use CLR on it, may damage the coating on the handle.

Definitely don’t use CLR just use dawn warm water and rinse and dry.

 

[Salty_Shaver]

Well to quote George Costanza "It moved".

After several soaking/cleanings in different materials I felt it engage the spring. It did not do that on every setting but I felt confident that I had made progress.

I gave it a good rinse out last night and this morning I put it in a mineral oil (thinned with a little Mineral Spirits) and let it soak for a few hours.

I felt pretty confident that I had it licked until....

No love, it feels about the same as always. Turn the knob down tight and Blam! it stops dead without any spring action.

I've changed the clocking a few times and the current setting provides the same gaps as my good slim.

I've decided to just make peace with this. I'll try shaving with it and see how it performs in the current condition.

Still a nice razor.

Dirty

PS. A little warning for folks thinking about a hot vinegar bath for your razor. Keep a close eye on things. I definitely lost a little plating on the two silver parts of the lower knob. I figured that if the mixture was that strong, it cleaned out and residual stuff inside the razor. I think it is still a good solution just be careful.

Vinegar is a acid it will strip plating finish. A mild soap works just fine and don’t use WD-50.