What's new

Preventing rust.

Came across this , what I found interesting, article where a guy tested 46 popular rust prevention products to see what would happen.
From a site called day at the range

Now he tested for a number of factors such as water dispersion, rust prevention, lubricity, odor ( important when hunting I guess ) among others.
He made sample steel slabs to apply each product to and subjected them to an accelerated rust cycle . Indoors and out. Salt water sprays, exposed to the elements. Even a very clever “ finger print “ test to see the reaction of touching a piece of steel after being treated.
Out of 46 highly touted rust prevention products 43 flat out failed.
Yes. He used extreme conditions but only to accelerate the outcome.

If a product can withstand extreme
Conditions it must be pretty good.

I found it in a search entitled

Comprehensive corrosion test. 46 products compared.

Like I said , it’s extreme. But if your a gun , knife, bow, razor fan and you want something that works. This is interesting.
Which 3 , only 3 , out of 46 , actually did what they claim?
Do you see your favorite product here that you swear by? And you know it really works? You recommended it to others because you know it’s the best! And you’ve tested it extensively? Did you?
I don’t know what many here consider long term but regardless, this is kinda interesting to read. When you spend this much time and effort to say a product is the best maybe I’ll listen. Clearly looking at the sample board 3 actually did work. And you can easily pick them out. If nothing else I tip my hat to his efforts. Very cool.
IMG_2567.jpeg
IMG_2566.jpeg
IMG_2562.png
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2568.png
    IMG_2568.png
    1.3 MB · Views: 31
  • IMG_2561.png
    IMG_2561.png
    1.6 MB · Views: 31
Last edited:
Very interesting, good old WD40 is about the only one available here readily.

I'm into beeswax blending, and up until a few days ago baby oil was in favour, it still ranks high with me for steel, but not for brass or lead wedges. I have a UV problem due to the orientation of the habitat, so 5 of the pristine were wrapped in greaseproof paper after just an oil, in their boxes, then wrapped together in thick brown paper to avoid uv bleaching the boxes.

Twelve months later, the steel is perfect, the brass pins/washers full of Verdigris, at least one lead wedge full of white corrosion salts. They are now listed for a bath in something yet to be determined, they have never seen water ever, nor cut one hair in their entire life. Then a yet to be determined anti aging cream and filed for another twelve months.

I'm thinking beeswax and CRC, we have beeswax and a liter of crc liquid not aerosol, whats one more blend?? Combining steel brass wood bakelite zamac [yuck] possibly zinc nickel gold silver catalan leather paper all in one hobby one can of wd40 won't suit it all.
 
Very interesting, good old WD40 is about the only one available here readily.

I'm into beeswax blending, and up until a few days ago baby oil was in favour, it still ranks high with me for steel, but not for brass or lead wedges. I have a UV problem due to the orientation of the habitat, so 5 of the pristine were wrapped in greaseproof paper after just an oil, in their boxes, then wrapped together in thick brown paper to avoid uv bleaching the boxes.

Twelve months later, the steel is perfect, the brass pins/washers full of Verdigris, at least one lead wedge full of white corrosion salts. They are now listed for a bath in something yet to be determined, they have never seen water ever, nor cut one hair in their entire life. Then a yet to be determined anti aging cream and filed for another twelve months.

I'm thinking beeswax and CRC, we have beeswax and a liter of crc liquid not aerosol, whats one more blend?? Combining steel brass wood bakelite zamac [yuck] possibly zinc nickel gold silver catalan leather paper all in one hobby one can of wd40 won't suit it all.
Just be aware. It’s not regular WD40. That failed right away.
This is WD40 Specialist
 
Good timing, as I just found one of my 14-er rusted after was covered in Ballistol for a couple of weeks. No idea how that happened as it was dry & clean before I applied the oil.

Unfortunately, I cannot find the WD-40 Specialist Long Term inhibitor where I am living, so I need to find something else, otherwise I might have to try to buy it from the states and have it shipped, which I don’t expect to be that easy.
 
I keep my razors in sealed containers with camphor crystals.
I take one out, I use it, I wipe it off, and I put it back.
It's very easy, and this way, the environment doesn't matter.
 
Good timing, as I just found one of my 14-er rusted after was covered in Ballistol for a couple of weeks. No idea how that happened as it was dry & clean before I applied the oil.

Unfortunately, I cannot find the WD-40 Specialist Long Term inhibitor where I am living, so I need to find something else, otherwise I might have to try to buy it from the states and have it shipped, which I don’t expect to be that easy.
I recently went through my collection for cleaning/inspection.
Mine are not kept in any special boxes etc. just too many. Also they are not in a climate controlled room. No heat/ air. In an old room off my studio.
Out of all the razors I checked about 15 that I had tried REM oil rust preventative were a mess.
Cannot find an article from S&W warning about pattern rust forming on steel coated with oil.
As this article states. If you are going to use oil it should be wiped to the point you think you wiped it all off. Also many oils damage some plastics or will stain.
I’ve only ever used Ren-wax ( except on those few) I’ll never use any kind of oil again.
It is not carnuba based as some say. There are waxes that over time can become acidic. RW won’t. Yeah it’s pricy but a can has lasted me for a long time as very little is needed.
It goes far.
And if it’s what guitar makers, restorers and museums use to protect their artifacts from every type of metal, leather, wood. It covers it all ( many common waxes don’t) it’s good enough for me.
No rust under not friendly conditions.
The razors aren’t some sloppy mess you need to clean before use. They’re clean, dry and shiny. Ready to go or photograph.
They’ve been there over 10 years. Not sure if that counts as long term storage. But even with the expense invested in a collection like this I’ll never use any type of oil,grease, Vaseline etc.
 
Last edited:
I’ve only ever used Ren-wax ( except on those few) I’ll never use any kind of oil again.
Thank you for the reply and suggestion. I think I will go back to Renaissance wax as well and have a dedicated container only for razors. The previous one I ended up using for all different sort of things, so I ran out in just a few years. Then, I didn't use anything to coat the razors for ~3 years and one day I saw some Ballistol, so I added one bottle to the cart. I need to go through my other razors and make sure other razors don't suffer the same problem.
As this article states. If you are going to use oil it should be wiped to the point you think you wiped it all off.
In the case of the razor which rusted, I applied more oil than usual, this I know for sure. Do you (or anyone else) know why applying more oil can be detrimental?
 
+1 for Ren Wax. I have a carbon steel sword kept at my parents because they like having it as a display piece. It sits in its scabbard, in direct sunlight with constantly fluctuating levels of humidity and temperature. The blade has likely seen its fair share of condensation. It’s been sitting there for 5 years+ and I inspected it last month. Not a speck of rust!
 
+1 for Ren Wax. I have a carbon steel sword kept at my parents because they like having it as a display piece. It sits in its scabbard, in direct sunlight with constantly fluctuating levels of humidity and temperature. The blade has likely seen its fair share of condensation. It’s been sitting there for 5 years+ and I inspected it last month. Not a speck of rust!
Is this Ren Wax?

Screenshot 2023-05-24 at 12.24.46.png
 
But some may find it burdensome to wipe off and apply with every shave.
My solution to this is to take out a razor and use it for a whole week, then apply wax before putting it back to storage and pick a new razor. Tomorrow I got a new can of ren wax coming in, but I will miss the flexibility of using oil, at least for the razors I frequently use. For the rest (about half of my razors), I never use/d are kind of "safe queens" and I will not think twice before applying the wax on. I just checked this evening and the razors which were waxed with ren wax are still pristine after many years.
 
Last edited:
Here is idea story your Razor in plastic container with rubber seal.

Buy beads like I use to dry out hearings. Beads get microwaved, turn Blue. Got to do this on paper plate. Beads absorbs moisture.

Moisture causes rust.

Think rubber seal container & beads about 12 - 20 dollars.

IMG_4498.jpeg
IMG_4499.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4497.jpeg
    IMG_4497.jpeg
    1.1 MB · Views: 2
How much do I believe in this stuff? I’ve had the jar on the right for around 8 years. Literally hundreds of razors. Was concerned I was down to 1” left. ( probably good for 3 or so years. I had to buy another jar.
Keep one on my bench and use it on every blade prior to assembly and scales. ( enhances depth , shine and won’t affect ANY scale , BYW I have never used neatsfoot oil on any horn scale new or old.
That creeps me out) and my scales look decent.
The second sits on my storage cabinet so after a day ,week or however long I’ve had a razor out. I give it a once over and put them to bed.
IMG_2605.jpeg
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
The problem with Ren Wax is the container, you can’t get to the bottom of the container.

I’m thinking a generic screw driven deodorant tube. Or a nice sealed shaving soap tin.
 
Top Bottom