I've seen quite a number if straight labeled "for tough beards" (pour barbes dures) or even for "very tough beards" (barbes trés dures). Le Grelots, Bökers, Filarmonicas (para barbas duras) etc. Is this just a marketing trick or are there razors that shave hard wired faces better and why?
Pour barbes dures
- Thread starter Thomas Martin
- Start date
If the edge cuts the whiskers, what does it matter what's behind it?
- Thread starter
- #3
That's what I figured too. So it's probably nothing than a marketing trick.
I think when working the steel the maker has some flexibility on how hard to make it.
Too hard and it is brittle. Too soft and it does not keep an edge.
It seems that the framebacks are harder, and can thus become sharper too. I could see that has being possible, because the blade not having to be self supporting, they have less constraints.
I do not find the Le Grelot to be that hard. But the Filarmonicas... I was trying to clean one up last night, and nothing would scratch it. They are a big hunk of steel and thus can afford to be less flexible and not risk breaking (although I have one that arrived snapped in half when delivered to me).
There might also be some special savoir faire on making a hard one that does not break.
I have a Tigre at home that I need to clean up. That one too make the claim.
Too hard and it is brittle. Too soft and it does not keep an edge.
It seems that the framebacks are harder, and can thus become sharper too. I could see that has being possible, because the blade not having to be self supporting, they have less constraints.
I do not find the Le Grelot to be that hard. But the Filarmonicas... I was trying to clean one up last night, and nothing would scratch it. They are a big hunk of steel and thus can afford to be less flexible and not risk breaking (although I have one that arrived snapped in half when delivered to me).
There might also be some special savoir faire on making a hard one that does not break.
I have a Tigre at home that I need to clean up. That one too make the claim.
The classic thoughts on the matter were that heavier razors worked better for tougher beards. In my opinion, it just makes the beards resistance less apparent as the heavier razor is already requiring more force, so the tiny bit of extra force involved in shaving a beard vs shaving stubble is harder to sense. Now if these labels are on thinner grinds, then I'd guess that they had a slightly steeper grind angle to earn that designation... or else it's just a gimmick. I'd be very surprised if manufacturers went to the trouble of using a whole different type of steel on one razor vs another to be able to stamp it "For tough beards".
Good old marketing!
Its amazing today's razors aren't sold as fat-free, sugar-free, bio or green!
Its amazing today's razors aren't sold as fat-free, sugar-free, bio or green!
I suspect the razors marked "for wimpy beards" didn't sell.
I'll have to see about that Tigre razor. If I remember correctly it was a thin hollow ground.
I should give it another look.
That, and also clean it up, hone it and try it. But I have a serious backlog.
I should give it another look.
That, and also clean it up, hone it and try it. But I have a serious backlog.
Pretty much all the "for tough beard" razors I've seen have been stiff grinds. Solid blades to cut through tough beards.
+1
Not a marketing ploy in my opinion. Stiff grinds for tough beards. I have/had a few of them.
The "pour barbes dures" razors are usually 1/4 hollow grinds or less (meaning they are closer to wedges). This is the minimize the flex of the full hollow grinds which can often feel like "pull". A great example of this is the Thiers Issard Historical razors which were marketed as "full hollows" but in reality were more like 1/4 hollows because they are so full and hard. There's no flex in these blades which means the feeling of "pull" is minimized. Another example would be a Bismarck razor in 6/8 with the fancy handles.
IMHO it is not a marketing trick when employed in this fashion as it really does produce a different sensation when shaving.
Chris
IMHO it is not a marketing trick when employed in this fashion as it really does produce a different sensation when shaving.
Chris
If an extra hollow is properly sharpened. Rest assured, there is no pulling. This is based on my own experiences. When I used DE blades I always had to use Feathers or Astras as I do have a slow growing but tough beard.
I do agree that the feeling and sound is different. But there is no pulling or tugging if an edge is sharp, no matter the grind. Irregardless of beard type.
I do agree that the feeling and sound is different. But there is no pulling or tugging if an edge is sharp, no matter the grind. Irregardless of beard type.
LOL! But TI already has a razor for Dandies!
Well, the words are French, the sentence is not.
- Thread starter
- #17
Je propose: "pour barbes molles"
It is quite remarkable that in French beard is feminine (la barbe).
It is quite remarkable that in French beard is feminine (la barbe).
Oh my f$#! hilarious.
So is "moustache".
Unfortunately, there is sometimes some justification for that gender on that one.
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