Post Shave Science- Questions???

[The Easy Life]

There is a great wiki on pre shave prep found here. http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/How_to_pre-shave_prep The basic premise is to soften or damage the hair so it will become weak and cut easier.

I was wondering the science around the post shave ritual. In these forums there are many ways people post shave prep their face for the day. What about what happens to the skin, face, cells after the shave. Here are my questions:

1. Should we leave our pores open by using hot water or other treatments so our face can "breathe"?
2. Does high alcohol content aftershave act as an antiseptic for our skin and should this be done only when the pores are open? Or should we close our pores to prevent the alcohol from damaging our cells?
3. If witch hazel acts as an astringent, doesnt cold water do the same?
4. Some witch hazel contains a low percentage of alcohol. Should this be used instead of high alcohol aftershaves and cold water?
5. Does witch hazel or aftershave work as effectively if we use cold water first to close our pores?
6. If we want to have a pleasant scent after our shave, why not use cologne instead of aftershave (if aftershave damages our cells)?
7. Is the "burn" from aftershave good for our skin/cells?
8. Is any of this necessary at all? Should we just rinse with warm water and let it go?

So if there are any dermatologists in the group, please speak up. I did not ask questions about balms and lotions because I figured that you would be using these to moisturize the skin for those with dry skin and would not use them for those with oily skin.

I am just rying to make sure that I am not damaging my face/skin and have problems down the road. Right now I have been messing around with my post shave ritual not really sure whichh is the best for me and my face. I think I have tried everyway possible using/not using hot water, cold water, witch hazel, aftershave, and balms in different orders. One way doesn't feel much different than the other by the time I'm getting dressed.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[jsj_297]

Good questions you pose. I for one use cold water splashes then use a high alcohol contented product on my face. Seems to work for me, I don't know the science behind it though. I'm sure u will get some answers.

 

[Foyle]

Pores don't open or close. I don't know why this myth continues to circulate but it does. Warm water softens the skin making it more elastic and softens the hair more effectively. Cold water causes the whiskers to stand up on end because the skin is less elastic when cold. Some gents prefer cold water shaving and some warm water. I prefer warm water.

I find cold water rinsing after the shave is just soothing but I don't think it has the same astringent effect that witch hazel has or an alcohol aftershave has. Witch hazel in and of itself is just a good medicinal substance and is good for soothing irritated skin.

Burn is not really a good thing but some people enjoy the sensation for some reason. If you've had a good shave your alcohol a/s shouldn't burn. Burning usually indicates that you've scraped your face a little raw. Pain is bad at any point in your shave. if you're the sort that is always getting burn from your alcohol a/s then switch to a non-alchohol balm to soothe your face. Occasional burn indicating that you've had an off shave is fine but really, why would you want your face to burn on a regular basis?

I find alcohol based splashes very soothing an comforting on hot summer days and the splashes that contain menthol are even nicer. I recommend applying any a/s to a damp face. A cold water splash prior to applying a menthol aftershave activates the cooling effect of the menthol and gives you a nice face freeze.

The rule of thumb should be "pain is bad". If your a/s hurts stop using it. Switch to one that doesn't hurt.

 

[The Easy Life]

Good questions you pose. I for one use cold water splashes then use a high alcohol contented product on my face. Seems to work for me, I don't know the science behind it though. I'm sure u will get some answers.

I hope so. Even if not from a skin doctor. I was just thinking yesterday as I looked at all these products I accumulated if these could be damaging my skin or do they really help it and what is the most effective way to use them (ie get the most out of what the product was designed to do).

 

[The Easy Life]

Pores don't open or close. I don't know why this myth continues to circulate but it does. .

OK. So pores dont open or close. Then here are a few more questions:

1. Does rinsing with hot water help extract/loosen any dirt or oil in the pores? Wouldn't most of this be also done through the exfoliation of the skin using a brush?
2. Should we rinse with hot water to help loosen/remove any cream/soap/oil left in the pores from the shave before using any aftershaves or witch hazel?
3. Does a cold water rinse after using A/S or WH help coagulate or solidify these substances to some extent in the pores allowing them to hang out a little longer? And is this good?

 

[Foyle]

Well, you should wash your face before shaving to clean oil and dirt from your skin, this also helps to soften whiskers. I shave right after I shower so that's already taken care of.
I always rinse with warm water after my shave to get any excess lather and soap residue off my skin. I pat my face dry and then rinse with cold water. Pat my face a little until it's just a little damp and apply my aftershave. Done.

 

[BlackBard]

Well, you should wash your face before shaving to clean oil and dirt from your skin, this also helps to soften whiskers. I shave right after I shower so that's already taken care of.
I always rinse with warm water after my shave to get any excess lather and soap residue off my skin. I pat my face dry and then rinse with cold water. Pat my face a little until it's just a little damp and apply my aftershave. Done.

I'm curious. Why would you dry your face only to then rinse it again? Why not just go directly from warm water to cold water?

 

[catchacoolbreeze]

I really love these questions and have been thinking about them too. I think the real situation comes from do you want an authentic type of shave or do you want a technical/dermatological view on what is best for your skin type of shave. For example, I have not read anywhere from any dermatogist that any of them would recommend putting alcohol on their face in any form as it drys out the skin considerably. Yet, many "old school" shaving products contain it. I would never use it on my skin, as there are many astringent type of products out there that use things like witch hazel instead.

My view of the post shave at this time (and I'm new at this) is that I try to mix both schools of thought in there. After I'm done shaving, I use a very gentle cleanser or alum bloc to get any remaining shaving soap off my face (because that can really dry skin). I then use a toner for additional cleansing all over my face (not just shaving surface) - I don't want any soap remnants on my face at all. After that, I will use a moisturizer and or aftershave balm to moisturize skin. This should be done no matter what kind of skin type. Good moisture doesn't hurt skin or clog pores, it is the oils that do. I always think a toner (at very minimum alum bloc) should be used to get off any remnants of soap that dry skin. Cold water, should not be used as a substitute because it is not effective at that.

Presently, I really like nancy boy cleanser and toners. They have excellent descriptions on why they use the ingredients that they do. You could check them out (at least for additional info).

As for the cold splash...i'm confused on when to do that one too. it is irrelevant to me whether pores open or close, I do believe that warm water helps clean pores (making them at least look smaller) better than cold water as it helps loosen up debris. As such, if I do do a cold water splash, I do it after the alum bloc or the toner, if I do it at all. I really don't think it helps with much though from a technical aspect. As mentioned before, the technical purpose of cold water is suspect to me and believe the use of toner is much more important to close pores (if you believe they actually open) and to get excess shaving soap off face (my main purpose).

For the reasons you mention, i never use aftershave. I always use a balm and then cologne.

 

[catchacoolbreeze]

Also, the folks over at Nancy Boy (i've heard this other places too, I just can't remember where) only recommend washing your face with a cleanser or soap once a day. If it needs more than that, they recommend using a toner. The very act of shaving with shaving soap and after the shower, means you are least washing it twice (maybe three times if you wash it additionally after the shave). Hence, to me, the importance of a AS balm or moisturizer is much more important than any alcohol based after shave product. YMMV, but although I'm new to DE shaving, I've been using this philosophy for over 14 years with cartridge style razors. It may not be authentic style, but I like the theory behind it and if you get good products, it is fun too!

 

[catchacoolbreeze]

I'm on a roll today with this thread...I called Nancy Boy for some help. They recommend washing your face once a day with the gentle cleanser. If you wash your face in the shower, use the cleanser (instead of any bar soap). Shave, use toner to get off any film or gunk, then apply their moisturizer. They said they offer aftershave to those they enjoy the "religion of shaving" and need to have that cooling sensation, but they actually use the moisturizer instead because it is a more scientific/effective/purpose built product to moisturize the skin over an aftershave product. I didn't ask about the cold water thing ...sorry I forgot.

Take from this what you will.

 

[Jawaburger]

I do a cold water splash after my shave for no other reason than it feels very refreshing after my shave and warm water rinse. I then use a little witch hazel followed by some A/S Balm.

 

[The Easy Life]

I'm on a roll today with this thread...I called Nancy Boy for some help. They recommend washing your face once a day with the gentle cleanser. If you wash your face in the shower, use the cleanser (instead of any bar soap). Shave, use toner to get off any film or gunk, then apply their moisturizer. They said they offer aftershave to those they enjoy the "religion of shaving" and need to have that cooling sensation, but they actually use the moisturizer instead because it is a more scientific/effective/purpose built product to moisturize the skin over an aftershave product. I didn't ask about the cold water thing ...sorry I forgot.

Take from this what you will.

How is their gentle cleanser different from soap? Or is it to sell you something? I have heard of toner but I guess I never really knew what it did. Looks like another cleanser if it gets off film or gunk. So then you are cleaning your face twice, right? I can understand the use of moisturizer to keep the skin hydrated but well hydrated skin to me produces more oil or oil sooner which can cause acne. Not sure I'm right on this though either.

Some good info from all here. Keep it coming.

 

[El-a-Menthol]

1. Should we leave our pores open by using hot water or other treatments so our face can "breathe"?
2. Does high alcohol content aftershave act as an antiseptic for our skin and should this be done only when the pores are open? Or should we close our pores to prevent the alcohol from damaging our cells?
3. If witch hazel acts as an astringent, doesnt cold water do the same?
4. Some witch hazel contains a low percentage of alcohol. Should this be used instead of high alcohol aftershaves and cold water?
5. Does witch hazel or aftershave work as effectively if we use cold water first to close our pores?
6. If we want to have a pleasant scent after our shave, why not use cologne instead of aftershave (if aftershave damages our cells)?
7. Is the "burn" from aftershave good for our skin/cells?
8. Is any of this necessary at all? Should we just rinse with warm water and let it go?

1. no.
2. yes it works antiseptic, but is added to dissolve essential oils properly. close pores for comfort.
3. yes, but witch hazel does more then just that (+anti-septic +stimulate cell growth=repair skin).
4. not should, but can if you are sensitive to the high levels of alcohol.
5. witch hazel & as's work best with a cold rinse before applying them.
6. colognes are not better for you skin in general and often (not always) it's scent lasts longer.
7. it should not matter much unless you get severe razor burn every single day.
8. no. but a cold water rinse would probably suffice for some.

YMMV

 

[jtb]

I think the cold water rinse after a shave helps constrict the skin and stop any minor nicks from bleeding. At least it works for me.
My routine is:
wash face with a gentle cleanser
rinse
shave 3 passes
rinse with warm water to get the soap residue off
rinse with cold to tighten/constrict (for any small nicks)
do a light witch hazel splash (let dry)
then shower
apply balm
and maybe a moisturizer (I live in arizona)

Hard to believe all that takes about 20 minutes

 

[Vivasanti]

i LOVE the feeling of ultra cold water on my face after shaving, its one of my most fav parts.

One thing ive wondered if i need to stop exfoliating now that im rubbing brush on my face every 2nd day?

 

[binowatch]

Everything Foyle said is right on!! Succinct in correct!!

 

[The Easy Life]

Originally Posted by Foyle
Well, you should wash your face before shaving to clean oil and dirt from your skin, this also helps to soften whiskers. I shave right after I shower so that's already taken care of.
I always rinse with warm water after my shave to get any excess lather and soap residue off my skin. I pat my face dry and then rinse with cold water. Pat my face a little until it's just a little damp and apply my aftershave. Done.

Everything Foyle said is right on!! Succinct in correct!!

Why do you need to dry your face between washes?

I too shower before shaving. Then brush a prelather on while I am getting my lather to its perfect consistency. It usually sits there for a min or so. Then I take a washcloth and run it under hot water and press it against my face for 20-30 sec and wipe off any prelather. Now I put my shaving lather on and shave 3 passes with a hot wash cloth press in between passes. The hot wash cloth press between passes keeps my hairs soft and remoistens my face for the next lather pass. Thats the pre shave and shave.

On the post shave, I use what ever lather is left in my cup and wipe it on my face. I clean up, then use a warm wash cloth to remove the lather. I just think the qualities of the lather soak in or something and make my face feel better (more so with the MWF). In addition, I am just going to throw it down the drain anyway. Here is what I do not know where to go or whats best.

What I have been doing as of late is a hot wash cloth to the face in a wiping motion followed by a cold rinse. No drying in between. I pat my face with a towel until its damp then apply witch hazel. I dont use an aftershave on a regular basis but will apply a balm if my face seems a bit sore after the shave. I am only two weeks into this and am working on my ever improving technique as well as different blades so every few shaves the balm goes on but not always.

So I am not sure of the benefit of drying in between washes and the use of aftershave unless its for the scent. I guess the witch hazel is my aftershave and seems to have some decent properties according to the post above. Does aftershave have other properties and should I be applying that as well?

 

[The Easy Life]

i LOVE the feeling of ultra cold water on my face after shaving, its one of my most fav parts.

One thing ive wondered if i need to stop exfoliating now that im rubbing brush on my face every 2nd day?

I too like the cold water rinse and especially since my routine uses hot water most of the time.

As for exfoliating, I guess it would depend on the brush. I use a pure badger brush and never exfoliated before out side of this. It seems that a silver tip brush may be too soft and may not give you the exfoliatation (is that a word?) results that you are doing outside of shaving. I have not used a silvertip so I am just throwing that out there. My brush seems hard enough to exfoliate yet soft enough to provide a great lathering experience.

 

[El-a-Menthol]

You are going way to caught up in petty details.
Also, it's better NOT to dry your face before applying AS.
This keeps/traps the moisture in your skin. Rinsing isn't the worst thing, but for most it is simply better not to. Maybe he feels it is somehow helping him to rinse, YMMV is more rule then exception here.
I would not wipe too long/too many times/with force after a shave (to prevent irritation).
Using warm water after a shave is fine, but it is best to follow it up with a cold water rinse.
And I strongly recommend using either a balm or a cream or a lotion after shaving.
Again, after shaves ARE NOT DESIGNED FOR THEIR FRAGRANCE, that is just a bonus.
They

• tighten the skin
• they repair the skin
• are antiseptic
• add moisture to the skin
• can have a cooling effect on the skin

If you want to wear a scent then a eau de cologne or eau de toilette is generally better suited.

 

[Go West Young Man]

1. Should we leave our pores open by using hot water or other treatments so our face can "breathe"?
Pores don't open and close, that's an misconception.

2. Does high alcohol content aftershave act as an antiseptic for our skin and should this be done only when the pores are open? Or should we close our pores to prevent the alcohol from damaging our cells?
YMMV

3. If witch hazel acts as an astringent, doesnt cold water do the same?
YMMV

4. Some witch hazel contains a low percentage of alcohol. Should this be used instead of high alcohol aftershaves and cold water?
YMMV

5. Does witch hazel or aftershave work as effectively if we use cold water first to close our pores?
YMMV

6. If we want to have a pleasant scent after our shave, why not use cologne instead of aftershave (if aftershave damages our cells)?
Cologne is just concentrated scent plus some alcohol as a carrier. Aftershave products are used to heal and protect the skin. Scent, if any, is secondary.

7. Is the "burn" from aftershave good for our skin/cells?
YMMV

8. Is any of this necessary at all? Should we just rinse with warm water and let it go?
YMMV.

Basically, every product is different, you have to experiment to find the ones that address your specific needs (which can change from day to day).