Pondering my shave problems

[Kyle 3 Pass]

I just got done with a two pass shave with my 15C with a Wilkinson. I just started going XTG on my chin whisker area (thickest stubble). After two passes tonight, my face feels raw with redness and a few ingrowns.

I am sitting on the couch with the LOTH and I just told her that I need to ponder my shave routine. Something is causing these problems. I think it could be a lack of pre-shave prep. It could also be the blade. It could be also be the blade. It could also be my lack of post shave treatment.

A little confused and agitated here, Gents. I think it's time for a change.

My routine:

1. Place hot towel on face for 1 minute pre shave.
2. WTG, XTG passes
3. Cold water post shave splash
4. Use thayers witch hazel on my face after cold water.

 

[mblakele]

I think you have the right idea. One minute is not long enough for prep. It takes two or three, and for tougher beards longer is better. Consider this old advice:

If you follow steps 1 and 2, your skin has been wet for over five minutes. I get much the same effect by face-lathering for a full five minutes.

 

[BigNickel]

Have you tried showering beforehand instead of hot towel?
Consider trying some preshave oil or preshave cream. Another thing to try is different creams, some have more cushion than others. One cream that seems to consistently give great shaves (either alone or used alongside another product) is Cremo Cream which can be found for relatively cheap in your local pharmacy, and with the mail in rebates that pop up regularly, it can even sometimes be free.

 

[butch_inski]

Maybe try a cold shave? I tried, against my better judgement, and it made a huge difference in my post-shave feel and razor bumps.

Also, you could run to Wal-Mart and pick up some Nivea Sensitive skin Post-Shave balm. White bottle. For $4, it's worth a try.

Those two things, gleaned by lurking here, made shaving a joy for me. YMMV.

 

[Kyle 3 Pass]

I haven't tried after a shower. My shaves are always done in the evenings.

I may have to try the cold shave. Possible helper!

 

[jeffriley]

I have found that when I have irritation it is almost always from either using too much pressure on the razor or going back over an area that does not have lather on it. I shave in the shower, so lack of sufficient time wetting my face is never a real issue though. If you are only doing two passes, make sure you are not trying to get too close of a shave. Most people cannot get BBS with two passes. If the irritation is localized to a specific area, you may want to check and make sure the grain is going the direction you think it is. there may be an area that you are going ATG without realizing it. I know that the bottom inch around my neck goes straight right to left. Before I learned exactly where the change occurred, I often had some irritation there after my second pass.

 

[Archer808]

Nivea Pre-shave Face Scrub is a great product for prep. JCinPA also had a great pre-shave routine for someone that doesn't shower before shaving:

Apply a very light lather, wipe lips, go have a cup of coffee. Go back, apply new lather on top of the lather you applied earlier and shave like normal. I tried this and I got a great shave.

 

[celestino]

Sounds like you are using too much pressure, firstly.
i would skip the hot towel and try cold water shaving to see if that helps.
Also, what else do you do for preshave routine? How is your lather?
Good luck.

 

[Porp]

I too shave in the evening most of the time. I found that using "Kyle's prep" helps a lot. Also, make a beard map, ditch the wilkinsons, go for an Astra, or other well regarded blade. Use NO pressure, just the weight of the razor. Shorten your strokes, pay attention to the blade angle. Divide your face into "facets" like on a diamond, and shave one facet at a time. Just go for a beard reduction at first till you have it down, then attempt to change one thing at a time to get closer. Keep your hardware and software consistent, don't product hop during this phase, as tempting as it is. PRACTICE LATHERING! The only time I get irritation now is due to poor lather. Buy a cream that is near impossible to mess up such as TOBS or porasso, watch Mantic59's videos on lathering, watch them again. BE PATIENT! Put on some relaxing music, take your time, enjoy the ritual.

 

[butch_inski]

+1 on the Proraso. Especially the white (sensitive.)

 

[Frankthetank]

Definitely recommend the shower before shaving, and if you can't do that, extend the hot towel time/repeated heatings. I find that face lathering really gives me great shaves. after I get out of the shower, I don't have to spend a bunch of time getting a bowl of lather ready. I just load up my pre soaked brush with my pre soaked soap and start lathering away on my warm damp face. Use a shave stick, and you get to applying lather even faster. When I was bowl lathering, I found that by the time I had the lather ready, my face was cold and dry and I needed another run with the hot towel. So, maybe give face lathering a shot. Never tried a cold water shave, so can't comment on that.

 

[Porp]

Definitely recommend the shower before shaving, and if you can't do that, extend the hot towel time/repeated heatings. I find that face lathering really gives me great shaves. after I get out of the shower, I don't have to spend a bunch of time getting a bowl of lather ready. I just load up my pre soaked brush with my pre soaked soap and start lathering away on my warm damp face. Use a shave stick, and its even faster. When I was bowl lathering, I found that by the time I had the lather ready, my face was cold and dry and I needed another run with the hot towel. So, maybe give face lathering a shot. Never tried a cold water shave, so can't comment on that.

Interesting, in Mantic's video he shows that it takes the same amount of time to get proper lather while both face and bowl lathering, I guess when face lathering there is no chance of the face drying at all, but that can be cured with a quick splash between swirls. I'm in the 50/50 camp, it just depends on which product I use.

 

[Frankthetank]

Interesting, in Mantic's video he shows that it takes the same amount of time to get proper lather while both face and bowl lathering, I guess when face lathering there is no chance of the face drying at all, but that can be cured with a quick splash between swirls. I'm in the 50/50 camp, it just depends on which product I use.

I just find my face stays moist and warm with face lathering, as it isn't left to the air to dry out and cool down for very long after the shower. Warm brush, warm water, warm lather?

 

[BBS Kirk]

Here is some advice I can offer. Skip tomorrow's shave, Brah. Giggling. My record of 9 days will stand then. Yeah! Laughing. Or you could just man-up and shave over those ingrowns. <grin>

Take a shower first, Buck. I always Do. <laughing>

Kirk

 

[Chadao]

I have found that when I have irritation it is almost always from either using too much pressure on the razor or going back over an area that does not have lather on it. I shave in the shower, so lack of sufficient time wetting my face is never a real issue though. If you are only doing two passes, make sure you are not trying to get too close of a shave. Most people cannot get BBS with two passes. If the irritation is localized to a specific area, you may want to check and make sure the grain is going the direction you think it is. there may be an area that you are going ATG without realizing it. I know that the bottom inch around my neck goes straight right to left. Before I learned exactly where the change occurred, I often had some irritation there after my second pass.

Yeah, going over a place without re-lathering always does me in.

 

[ThomasB98908]

I'd suggest try a different blade. Astra SPs or something like that. See if that makes a difference. My pre-shave routine usually consists of just a liberal splashing/soaking with hot water and letting it soak for about 5 minutes. Re-wet and shave. I've tried the Wilkinson blades and they don't work for me at all. Pulling and redness on my neck. Gave em to my son. Astra SPs are my go-to blade and in all my razors I have no problems at all.

 

[chilliman64]

my guess is too much pressure, incorrect angle, insufficient preparation, and, wrong blade. spend extra time softening the chin area. as others have said try to shower pre-shave, if that is not possible then keep working on the hot wet towel and just apply it for longer.

what did you shave with before? did you have the same issues? what else have you changed in your shave routine since starting wetshaving? what soap/brush are you using? is your lather ok? how often have you been changing blades? these days I get ingrowns if I try to use the blade too many times and instead of giving a clean cut I get ingrowns around the chin area where my thicker whiskers are - they are getting tugged on and not being cut clean.

many wetshavers get great results from cold water shaving (CWS) but it is not for everyone, you might be one of them.

 

[Taipan]

I've often read the advice to 'use no pressure, only the weight of the razor'. That's fine with the grain, but how are you supposed to use the weight of the razor when going uphill against the grain?

 

[chilliman64]

I've often read the advice to 'use no pressure, only the weight of the razor'. That's fine with the grain, but how are you supposed to use the weight of the razor when going uphill against the grain?

that's the trick - how much pressure is enough, how much is too much? shaving WTG the weight of the razor should be doing most of the work, against the grain is something you have to work out for yourself, that is why ATG is not recommended for wetshaving newbies. get control of the razor WTG and XTG before you venture into ATG. on the other hand, the only way to learn is to have a go. many find though that a cautious start is the best.

 

[Cerbul13]

There are a few aspects that most people don't remind them when they show their routine.

1. Shower first saves preparation time, but it doesn't mean there should be none.
2. After exiting shower, make sure there is absolutely not a single moment when your face is not wet. Making lather in the bowl is not an excuse to let your face dry. It will cancel the ENTIRE effect of the shower.
Alternative is that if you don't shower and you only do hot towel prep, you should keep your face wet all the time until you put lather on. Don't let your face get dry.
My advice as an alternative to hot towel is to use normal soap to wash your face to make beard softer. Here is imperative to not only wash your face, but instead, wash it long enough to feel that your face gets warm and the hair softens. Reapply soap if needed and continue rubbing until you can actually feel your hairs softened.
3. Rinse with warm water between passes.
4. Final rinse should be with warm water, and after use cold water to calm down the face and make it ready for aftershave.



Possible causes:
- lather too watery causing it to loose its cushion => increased blade damage = raw face
- lather too dry - blade doesn't glide good enough, also possible ingrowns cause + raw face
- blade is not cutting properly causing damage, but less likely to happen this.
- skin too stretched or too loose while shaving can cause ingrowns.
- bad preparation leaves stubble strong, which damages face when trying to cut them.

So there are many things that can go wrong. However, if you do shave one time with a proper preparation you should immediately notice how awesome is to shave with a softened beard.