I'm hooked on G96. Love the smell of it and seems to work great.
Was recommended by a few members at my club.
Was recommended by a few members at my club.
Please, Someone Smarter Than Myself ... *(BOLD asterisk)
- Thread starter shoelessjoe
- Start date
I love Clp, but that's engrained in me. I could use it as an aftershave I think lol. But have started using Ballistol on stuff to try out. Snipershide had a few test videos on lubes. Don't recall what was 'best'. 'we' once used motoroil because we ran out of clp. Had gallons of it for a machine gun range in Georgia. It poured all day, it sucked cleaning afterwords though, I can't recommend it lol.
Well if motor ain't your thing I would avoid the Lucas products (They are also great BTW). The synthetic oil reminds me of gear oil in viscosity and smell and the grease seems like the stuff you would find in CV axle joints. I also like Mil-Com TW25b for bolt lugs and the such.
I am extraordinarily agnostic re lube believing location/amt is far more important than brand/type.
I am presently using a $3.00 tub of Walmart lithium bearing grease I bought about 15 years ago and/or mobile one synthetic motor oil.
I have had no issues with the above from an ambient temp of high teens to low 100s shooting in MO/KAN/TN/OK/AZ/TX and NM when shooting Glocks/Revolvers/Mossberg 590s/FNs .308s/1911s and a Bolt Action .308 rifle.
I have seen filthy but well lubed ARs (petroleum based grease) run with no issues 400-500 rd per day in a class. The rifle in question had not been purportedly cleaned in over 5000 previous rounds.
I also saw a carbine run well when generously and repeatedly lubed with Vagilsil after its spotless bolt cooked/shot off a very thin coating of alleged sewing machine oil and malfunctioned.
I am presently using a $3.00 tub of Walmart lithium bearing grease I bought about 15 years ago and/or mobile one synthetic motor oil.
I have had no issues with the above from an ambient temp of high teens to low 100s shooting in MO/KAN/TN/OK/AZ/TX and NM when shooting Glocks/Revolvers/Mossberg 590s/FNs .308s/1911s and a Bolt Action .308 rifle.
I have seen filthy but well lubed ARs (petroleum based grease) run with no issues 400-500 rd per day in a class. The rifle in question had not been purportedly cleaned in over 5000 previous rounds.
I also saw a carbine run well when generously and repeatedly lubed with Vagilsil after its spotless bolt cooked/shot off a very thin coating of alleged sewing machine oil and malfunctioned.
Spent $8 on a can of legit Gun Scrubber and it did nothing plain old $2 brake cleaner doesn't.
There's a non-chlorinated version but both are super dangerous to plastic parts.
I shoot a lot of milsurp, wood and steel, with corrosive combloc ammo, so. Harsh works.
Oil choice depends on gun. Plastic poodle-shooters* need $$$ lubes and cleaners.
Lately I just shoot revolvers, they're not fussy.
AA
* (Explains for non-shooters) Jokingly used derisive term for AR-style rifles, especially those in 22-caliber.
I think Hoppe's smells good enough to dab a bit behind each ear. Can't tell me there ain't some chick's you can attract with that scent. Like at the truck stop or garage or somewhere?
Ima gunna have to try Ballistol. Don't know why I haven't yet after all these years. If it's good enuf for Hickok 45 it's good nuf' for me.
I bought some Balistol when I got into airguns. I need to try it on my powder burners.
I did a 2 day LE rifle class a few years back in Stroud Okla. 500 rounds of .556 and 150 pistol a day for the 2 days. 1st day, my Colt LE6920 gave me several hiccups because of my new found Frog Lube. The directions for Frog Lube was to apply several coats and sticking the metal parts of the gun in an oven to warm up so the application would sink into the metal. Anyone remember those directions for applying Frog Lube?
Once that rifle got hot from shooting and the 105 degree day in August, that Frog Lube baked on, turned brown and sticky and began causing malfunctions by gumming up the bolt and probably, the buffer spring also. I hosed the rifle with a can of RemOil and the yellow straw that attaches to it just to finish that first day.
Took it home that night, decontaminated all the Frog Lube from my beloved 6920, and lubed it afterwards with RemOil again. 2nd day went flawlessly.
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Ima gunna have to try Ballistol. Don't know why I haven't yet after all these years. If it's good enuf for Hickok 45 it's good nuf' for me.
All you need to know:
Ballistol After Shave! experiment
Well. Someone had to do it. :001_cool: http://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/media/52910"][/URL] After seeing the Hoppes No.9 soap/AS - which doesn't actually contain that well-known gun cleaner, but only its scent - it occurred to me you could actually make an aftershave with Ballistol in it...
www.badgerandblade.com
The History of Ballistol
An exciting story that begins in 1874 and that results over a competition of the Imperial Army to the still successful formula of Ballistol oil.
www.ballistol-shop.de
:"The company made a breakthrough at the turn of the century, when the German Imperial Army needed an all-round oil with very special properties: a multi-purpose oil that would be suitable for all the materials of a weapon – for cleaning, care, and conservation of the metal parts, wooden stocks, and leather straps. At the same time, it was to be used by soldiers as a wound oil for smaller injuries, chaps, and abrasions"
AA
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All you need to know:
Ballistol After Shave! experiment
Well. Someone had to do it. :001_cool: http://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/media/52910"][/URL] After seeing the Hoppes No.9 soap/AS - which doesn't actually contain that well-known gun cleaner, but only its scent - it occurred to me you could actually make an aftershave with Ballistol in it...
Lol'd. Working with tools in a hot garage while drinking Mad Dog don't mix?
RemOil is getting harder to find on the shelves and more expensive when found online. Ballistol will probably be my replacement go to.
If the gun is filthy, like with a lot of unburnt powder, I hit it with Rem Action Cleaner. It has become stupid expensive if you can get it.
I have been using Ballistol for the last 22 years and I've found the more you use it, the easier the fouling comes off. It works really well on black powder residue when cut with water.
For heavy copper or lead fouling I use Sweets 7.62.
For long term storage I use Boeshield T9.
I have been using Ballistol for the last 22 years and I've found the more you use it, the easier the fouling comes off. It works really well on black powder residue when cut with water.
For heavy copper or lead fouling I use Sweets 7.62.
For long term storage I use Boeshield T9.
Ballistol cut with water? It mixes without separating?
Nah, turns cloudy. Black powder shooters clean with that, they call it Moose Milk or something.
AA
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I like it! Sounds all... Northerner.
Pretty hard to offend us hockey pucks
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G96 is what I've used for probably close to 30 years now. For me it works great and you can't beat the way it smells. My wife even said she didn't hate the it
. After cleaning, I use a couple of drops of Hoppe's Elite gun oil on the moving parts. There my be better stuff out there but this has worked for me for a long time.
Ballistol is good stuff, especially for wood and leather. Been using it for thirty years. Still don't like the smell, though.
But my very favorite juice is TSI-321.
Started using it with my airguns, as it does not attack seals. It's a great pellet lube that does not ignite under pressure.
A synthetic ester, the stuff goes on thin, penetrates and adheres--the usual yadda-yadda about all CLPS. But the stuff does tend to persist and is an excellent rust protectant.
I use it liberally on my firearms, as it has a high flash point and doesn't get gummy.
You don't see it marketed that widely, though it does show up a lot in LEO media and cop shops.
And, as with all miracle juice, it's fairly expensive.
But my very favorite juice is TSI-321.
Started using it with my airguns, as it does not attack seals. It's a great pellet lube that does not ignite under pressure.
A synthetic ester, the stuff goes on thin, penetrates and adheres--the usual yadda-yadda about all CLPS. But the stuff does tend to persist and is an excellent rust protectant.
I use it liberally on my firearms, as it has a high flash point and doesn't get gummy.
You don't see it marketed that widely, though it does show up a lot in LEO media and cop shops.
And, as with all miracle juice, it's fairly expensive.
