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Planning on honing my first straight

I received a Dovo 5/8 "inox" 1/2 hollow straight razor for the holidays and would like to put a shave ready edge on it. I have the following equipment: a norton 4k/8k, a dmt-d8c (to flatten the norton) a 4 sided paddle strop, a well used hand-me-down leather strop, and diamond pastes in 3, 1, .5, and .25 microns respectively. I would like some suggestions from those of you with far more experience than me with this steel. About how many strokes you would start with on the 4k to establish the initial bevel? Moving on to the 8k? And finally the pasted strop. I have watched the videos done by heavydutysg135, but have yet to actually touch my razor to the hone. Thanks for any advice. Best, -Bob
 
I received a Dovo 5/8 "inox" 1/2 hollow straight razor for the holidays and would like to put a shave ready edge on it. I have the following equipment: a norton 4k/8k, a dmt-d8c (to flatten the norton) a 4 sided paddle strop, a well used hand-me-down leather strop, and diamond pastes in 3, 1, .5, and .25 microns respectively. I would like some suggestions from those of you with far more experience than me with this steel. About how many strokes you would start with on the 4k to establish the initial bevel? Moving on to the 8k? And finally the pasted strop. I have watched the videos done by heavydutysg135, but have yet to actually touch my razor to the hone. Thanks for any advice. Best, -Bob
1) Check to see if it shaves arm hair. If yes, go to 4K stone. If no, you need to set the bevel. This could possibly be done with the 4K (try it and see if you can bring it up to shave arm hair this way), but if not, you will likely need to drop back to something around 1K (welcome to HAD...:w00t:).

2) Next, go (through the 4K) to the 8K and then when you've got all out of it, go to your paste progression and strop.

Test your progress as you go so that you can determine what's needed at each step. There is no magic formula for number of laps and all that. It's different for every razor, condition of the razor, stone...you name it. Try the TNT around the bevel set stage, and then the TPT and shave testing after that.

You can do it....
 
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Sweet!!!

Woodash makes a great point that you'll probably need something in the 1K range, Norton makes a fine stone that is a 220/1K combo and really affordable.

I would do the pyramid method with the combo:

Strokes on Norton 4k and 8k.
odd steps are 4k and even are 8K

1. 15
2. 15
3. 10
4. 10
5. 5
6. 5
7. 3
8. 3
9. 1
10. 3
11. 1
12. 5

From there since you don't have a finishing stone I'd go to the .50 side of the paste and see how you like that.

I love the pyramid method and have had great success with it.

Another method I've used is 20 on the 4K and 10 on the 8K but that is worthless if you don't remove the scratches from the grit prior. Meaning if your 4K doesn't remove the scratches from your 1K you're pretty much doomed from having a good edge. So as long as your 4K removes the 1K and your 8K removes your 4K you should have a pretty reasonable edge. Great way to learn.
 
Sweet!!!

Woodash makes a great point that you'll probably need something in the 1K range, Norton makes a fine stone that is a 220/1K combo and really affordable.

What's the phrase?.....In for a penny, in for a pound? I just used the last little bit of my amazon gift card to offset the purchase of a dmt-d8e which is a 1.2k so that should suit me for the time being I hope. Just when I thought I had gotten over all of the AD's one could come in contact with.....

So! Now that there's a 1K stone on the way, how does this change things?
 
What's the phrase?.....In for a penny, in for a pound? I just used the last little bit of my amazon gift card to offset the purchase of a dmt-d8e which is a 1.2k so that should suit me for the time being I hope. Just when I thought I had gotten over all of the AD's one could come in contact with.....

So! Now that there's a 1K stone on the way, how does this change things?

If you have the DMT already, you're even better off! The 1.2 is my favorite and recommend it more than the Norton. I only said Norton as an example.

Now you you have one less stone to worry about soaking and lapping. The 1.2 just needs some water and a dab of soap when you're using it.

You're pretty much set and the only thing that would probably change is your finishing method. You may move on to a finishing stone but you're set up will get you by until you get bit by the HAD bug.
 
If this is an antique-store find, and you know the bevel is bad, ignore this post.

a) You're assuming that the blade (fresh from the factory?) isn't shave-ready. Is this a new razor, or an old one?

b) do you have experience with other straight razors, so you know what "shave ready" means -- that is, how a "shave-ready" edge feels on your skin?

My _guess_ is that a new, factory Dovo may need minor honing, but that it will have an even bevel.

The general rule for honing is:

. . . Remove _only as much steel as you have to_ .

So my suggestion:

Get a good 10x loupe. Jeweller's "triplet diamond loupe" works well.

Check the bevel. If it's smooth -- no scratches, good bevel -- _do not_ re-set the bevel.

Strop the razor. Test it on arm hair, 1/8" above the skin. If it "pops" hair, try shaving with it.

If it shaves badly, use a 0.5 micron pasted strop, 10 laps. Check with the loupe; the edge should have a mirror finish. Repeat stropping, repeat arm test, repeat shave test.

If it still shaves badly, back-up to the 3 micron pasted strop, 10 laps. 5 laps on 0.5 micron pasted strop. Strop, test.

And so on, working backwards ("up the grits" from finest to coarse, rather than "down the grits").

With any luck, your razor will never see the 4K stone.

Charles
 
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